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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

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  1. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks!

    I might take better photos later. The jacket does wedge out when I move my arms back, such as when I put my hands in my pocket as I do in that photo (doesn't do that as much when I stand normally, I'll add a photo). I actually didn't know if that was normal, but I did notice it. I didn't think it necessarily looked awkward, so I wasn't sure if that's a bad thing or a stylistic thing with single button jackets. I mean it's meant to be a fairly casual suit for me, and I think it looks alright/makes my figure stand out a bit more, but like I said I am new to getting tailored suits, so perhaps it just looks cheap/badly tailored to someone who's got a keener eye for these things?

    In any case I think you're right though it definitely feels a bit stiff. Is this because the jacket is too tight? I did ask for a fairly slim fit. If I get a suit made (either by them or someone else) in the future, what should I look for/tell them?

    The sleeves are fine; for the blue jacket I was wearing a t-shirt so it might look a bit weird, but the 1/4 inch shows as per normal.

    Anyway, I suppose I can't expect that much from the price; would you consider it a fairly acceptable suit considering that? It feels that way to me, but I obviously don't have much frame of reference.

    [​IMG]


    Haha I should've posted when I got the first suit, but I was a bit daunted. Oh well, live and learn. At least I think they are still fairly wearable.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2013
  2. iSurg

    iSurg Senior member

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    Melbourne
    As long as you have bought something that you can wear, that's the main thing. I have bought things that saw almost no wear - they were not worth the time or money, but were part of an ongoing educational experience to discover what I liked in clothing, shoes, etc. A good piece of advice I have received (and hold to be true) is to acquire things slowly and thoughtfully (but not too much thinking as your time should be spent on other things). The best thing is when you have a piece of clothing that suits your needs for many years and one that you don't have to upgrade/replace because it feels cheap (or not as well made as you would like). That being said, there is no such thing as "investment" in clothes or shoes.

    Myself, I go for jackets that are soft, comfortable and light. I live in Melbourne where we have both cold and wet (but not snow), and very hot. I think dressing to suit the environment you live in (colours, fabrics, function) is important. I think fit and construction are vitally important. I am surprised sometimes at how badly some "tailor made clothing" can be, and sometimes ready-to-wear can be well-fitted and better constructed, even better priced. A good example would be stuff from Ring Jacket, Boglioli, Boggi Milano. I've had jackets from such brands that are better than certain HK tailors, at a better price as well.

    Your last photo shows only part of the jacket (I am guilty of doing the same thing) but there are a few comments I would make. I guess if you wanted more comfortable jackets, you would ask for a lighter, less padded construction with softer canvas. Think about a softer shoulder, but I would probably not ask for a spalla sleeve head as I have only seen good examples from Chan or Yao. I don't see a lapel buttonhole, but maybe you asked for that to be removed. There are issues with your shoulder fit, and I suspect that the shoulders need to be more forward pitched to prevent that amount of wrinkling while holding a neutral, anatomical stance.

    I submit four jacket fits to share the aesthetics I like and also for constructive criticism:
    1. ready-to-wear unstructured Boggi Milano cotton jacket, Liverano (fujito) jeans, denim shirt
    [​IMG]

    2. ready-to-wear Al Bazar herringbone blazer (unknown mill fabric)
    [​IMG]

    3. made-to-measure unpadded jacket from Australian company "P Johnson Tailors" (Dugdale worsted, I think)
    [​IMG]

    4. One of my favourites: Orazio Luciano made-to-measure in Loro Piana 3-ply with minimal padding
    [​IMG]

    Granted, I cannot afford most bespoke other than Chan (definitely not any Italian or English bespoke operations), and it will likely remain so until I am personally comfortable to spend at a higher bracket. I still believe that there are options for every price point, but a lot of them require you to visit in-store. Some Italian stores I visited sold very well-made jackets for 300 euro...

    I think it might be wise to try other tailors, such as Y William Yu over Simpson. Don't have to order much - maybe an odd jacket and odd trousers. Otherwise, give some ready-to-wear companies a go if you get a chance to visit stores and try on
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2013
  3. Yuan Y

    Yuan Y New Member

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    Has anyone tried Dream Bespoke? Any comments? Thanks.
     
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I have seen and feel their garment. They are better than Lee Baron but not quiet Chan or Baroman with the right coatmaker.
     
  5. Biggles

    Biggles New Member

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    Hello,

    my first post on the forum and to start, I would like to thank everyone who has written about Hong Kong tailors - loads of very helpful information.

    In the end of November, I will be in Hong Kong for a week and my plan was to try to do a suit with Gordon Yao. This would be my first with him. However, it turns out he is in the US during that time. There are other staff in the shop and they will do the suit. But, I don't know how involved Gordon himself is in the measurement etc. and if his abscence would have a big impact on the final result. What do you think, is it worh doing a suit with Gordon Yao if he is not around or should I choose another tailor? (My second choice was WW Chen, but they are closed most of the time I'm around...) Any insight to this would be much appreciated.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  6. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    It is Gordon himself who takes measurement.
    I would not go to GY without G himself.
     
  7. Biggles

    Biggles New Member

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    Thanks for the info!
     
  8. vinveritas

    vinveritas Senior member

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  9. Haroldwong

    Haroldwong Active Member

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    Nov 14, 2013
    Hi all,

    I'm vising HK for the winter and I have a full week here. I would love to have a bespoke suit made while I'm here.( this will be my first ).
    Looking for a nice check pattern, tapered/contemporary fit but not too slim. A slight modern/traditional mix (with cuffed pants?),(any suggestions on a trendy high-fashion look are appreciated) :)
    I played around google and found myself in a million options. I've narrowed down and the following seem to have some good reviews.

    WW Chan
    Jantzen Tailors
    Empire International Tailors
    Gordon Yao
    A Man Hing Cheong
    Bonham Strand

    There seems to be no shortage of info on WW Chan here, and I'm definitely looking forward to checking them our first. Any information on the rest is appreciated + any other recommendations.

    I have a budget of roughly HK $4000 .. would prefer to get a shirt or two within that as well.

    PS: I Will post pictures of my suit for you guys to see.

    Thanks in advance!!
    Harry
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2013
  10. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Oxon, UK
    For HK$4000, including shirts, you're almost asking to be shafted. A CMT 2-piece from GY would come in around HK$8500 plus fabric. You may be able to get a decent, entry-level suit from Lee Baron for a little about your budget, around HK$5K or so, anything less than that is going to be a waste of your time and money.
     
  11. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    On that kind of budget, I'd suggest, as I did earlier in my post, Simpson Sin. I'm currently getting another suit made by someone else and I'll post my thoughts when I get them. But anyway, even with SS you're looking at 4-5000 for a suit, and shirts from Jantzen cost a few hundred. I would not really go lower than that, from what I hear about quality. That said, I've been told by some people Cheung Hing is a good choice. Those people probably weren't very picky but if you insist on a lower price bracket there's them.

    re: iSurg

    Thanks for your reply.

    I mostly travel around cities, and I live in Hong Kong, London, etc, so likely that has to do with my difference in preference, as I don't quite prefer more textured fabrics or styles, so I'm actually pretty happy with the suits I got. That said I am getting a brown linen suit for summer and country to expand my versatility a little bit. Generally speaking though, I prefer using sharper starker contrasting color combinations and styles, as most of the opportunities I wear my suits in are at night or past midnight in social situations/party atmospheres as part of my work, so there's a mix of formality and casual that's more hmm city-esque? I don't know if I am describing my needs properly but I hope you get the point. My shirt selection is a lot darker and bolder in colors, and I don't have too much pastels and so on, so I've decided to mostly go for simple solid suits to avoid it clashing too much and being too busy.

    I'll have to be honest, I am personally very happy with my purchases, but of course I'm worried that's just my lack of experience talking.

    I can't offer much critique, but I like the whole outfit with the blue blazer and the gray tie.
     
  12. iSurg

    iSurg Senior member

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    I agree with your fabric selection. Just thought that the construction could be improved with some pointers, that's all. I prefer my lapels to sit flush to the chest, with no bowing. And soft shoulder. Just one type of aesthetic, that people can either agree or disagree. No biggie. Enjoy the suits and post more fit pics :)
     
  13. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    For 5K HKD you can get a two piece CMT from LeeBaron. I'm not sure I'd call it entry level.
     
  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I think the pictures were not good indications because my warms were stretched back a bit more than normal. I'll get a bunch of full body pictures taken when I get my last suit. Thanks a lot for the comments anyway.
     
  15. Merino Bros

    Merino Bros Senior member

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    Sep 18, 2013
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    Hong Kong
    For all who are interested in Hong Kong tailors, we would like to tell you that the following tailors are now carrying Harrisons, H Lesser and Porter&Harding bunches:

    A-Man Hing Cheong
    Ascot Chang
    Browns Tailor
    Dream Bespoke
    Gordon Yao
    Lee Baron
    Misurino
    Practical Tailor
    Tai Pan Row
    William Yu
    WW Chan
    Y William Yu
    Yuen's tailors

    (The above list does not include Hong Kong-based visiting tailors)

    The list is not complete and there will be more shops carrying Harrisons products in the future[​IMG]
     
  16. darkness2505

    darkness2505 Active Member

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    I would also like to offer my very recent experiences as well. Like many of you, I was looking to get a suit made in Hong Kong for the three weeks time that I was there. As this was my first bespoke suit and also a newbie to the world of fabrics and suiting, I did some research and knew of the big names that was beyond my budget (Yao, Chan). I narrowed my choices to the mid range tier, that I was able to find from reading every page of this thread. After I was able to find a suiting thread on a HK forum (thanks Fishball and add911_11) with my limited Chinese, and everyone seems to rave and recommend Dream Bespoke.

    I went the other two "famous" mid range tailors as well and these are the starting prices that I was told:

    Simpson Sin
    Half Canvas 4300
    Full Canvas 4600

    Lee Baron
    Half Canvas 3800
    Full Canvas 5800

    Dream Bespoke
    Full Canvas 4900

    To be honest, you can say I am a sheep and whatnot, I just decided to go to DB based upon the recommendations from the HK thread. Ricky from DB was a younger gentleman, but he was very genuine and nice and took the time to explain everything to me as I didnt know much about suiting. I went in on a Tuesday and was able to get my first fitting in on the Friday, and then the 2nd fitting on the next Friday and was able to get everything done in the 3rd week Tuesday. He had an older gentleman tailor with him when I did the fittings as well.

    Regarding Jantzen, I used to go to them a few years ago, but this year I went back and I can tell you that their customer service to me sucks balls. I can honestly say I am pretty tolerant and patient, but there was absolutely no customer service. I went to them as a new customer again to get remeasured, and when I got my shirt, it was wrong in all the places, even one of the girls working there thought there was something wrong. However, it still did not fit right the second time, so I had them fix it again. The people working there just seem uninterested. Perhaps, I was only ordering 1 shirt from them at that time. I do not think I will go back to them again. Therefore, I ended up making 3 other shirts at DB as well. They were similar price range at $450.

    I paid 5600 for a navy two piece VBC Super 110s. It was recommended by him, do you think that is a decent fabric and fair price? As my first real suit, this is still all new to me, so I hope I made the right decision. I had a very good experience with Ricky though. Pics to come soon.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2013
  17. iSurg

    iSurg Senior member

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    Looking forward to those pics. Sounds great.
     
  18. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I'm going to pick up a suit from Excellent Tailor/Regent Shop.. I mean I haven't read anything about them here, so I assume they are probably terrible and I made a huge mistake, but they are just downstairs where I live so I thought why not give it a try. I'll be picking up my WW Chan suit after alterations soon I think I'll spend some time getting photos taken of like half a dozen suits and items of clothing, should I make a separate thread or post here?

    I sort of want to try other medium range tailors, or do you think I should probably just go with WW Chan for now now that I have a decent range to work with and don't really need many more? Probably that, though I've enjoyed my experience with Jantzen so much (likely because I'm a repeat customer and I am partially local, from the sounds of it), I thought I might try a suit with them. I've read some comments on them that they are okay but not great, and it's not much to go by, does anyone know? It's just I got a bunch of shirts from them and now a waist coat and I really quite liked it.

    I think actually that's probably a bad idea, I might just go with another WW Chan next year when I come back. I'll post the photos soon full body and from different sides when I get them.

    Here's a photo of the blue jacket, perhaps some thoughts on that? It's not a good photo, and fwiw, the shirt does peek out about 1/4 inch, I think I just didn't have my arms stretched, and I was in a hurry and didn't tuck my shirt properly. I'll take a proper one as a full suit soon. I really do think it's okay, but I'm having second thoughts now about it.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2013
  19. amerikajinda

    amerikajinda Senior member

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    I think it looks great and fits very well. Congrats!
     
  20. johncolona

    johncolona New Member

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    VBC super 110 is a decent fabric with very high value-to-price ratio. It is a fair price for 5600. IIRC, WW Chan charges more than double for the same material for a two-piece.

    Ricky can serve you very well. May I suggest you to try Lessers as well (also available in DB)? You can't go wrong with lessers 8/9 oz.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2013

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