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marchello

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comrade

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Those fit beautifully.
Try the next pair w/ an inward -facing pleat.
 

Royal_Airforce

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Does anyone have a list of fabric wholesalers In hk or mainland?

The blog of @PekingRoadHK lists out, inter alia, the fabric wholesalers and retailers in Hong Kong:
http://suitcmt.blogspot.hk/
http://cmtsuithk.blogspot.hk/
http://suit-cmt-hk.blogspot.hk/
https://cmtsuit.wordpress.com/

And just to expand this question: Anyone knows if any guy in the trade is willing to offer fabrics at a moderate premium over the trade price (but still below the retail cut-length price) to us consumers for our CMT projects? Considering that the retail price of a certain high-twist workhorse fabric (which I am not gonna name here) from its official website is a ~50% uplift from the trade price.
(But then this might better be in the Baotou thread)
 

Inmystyle

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The blog of @PekingRoadHK lists out, inter alia, the fabric wholesalers and retailers in Hong Kong:
http://suitcmt.blogspot.hk/
http://cmtsuithk.blogspot.hk/
http://suit-cmt-hk.blogspot.hk/
https://cmtsuit.wordpress.com/

And just to expand this question: Anyone knows if any guy in the trade is willing to offer fabrics at a moderate premium over the trade price (but still below the retail cut-length price) to us consumers for our CMT projects? Considering that the retail price of a certain high-twist workhorse fabric (which I am not gonna name here) from its official website is a ~50% uplift from the trade price.
(But then this might better be in the Baotou thread)
Thanks!
 

Royal_Airforce

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[Cross-posting from the Double Breasted Thread, but adding some more comments on Prologue DB house style, as well as a bit details on the make ]

_________________________________

My latest heist from Prologue during their sample sale: A navy giacca doppio petto trasformabile.


DE35DC8C-6395-46AD-982E-2C6540CF4681.jpeg


It’s their DB in Mark II house cut, with wider shoulder (mine measured 51cm shoulder width on a ~size 50!), a new canvas that is said to stand better, slightly bellied lapels, slightly higher gorge with blunter lapel edge, and a higher pocket position - aligned to the bottom row of buttons. In comparison, their Mark I DB house fit features a slightly lower gorge, straight lapel with no belly and sharper lapel edge a la Caliendo) and a higher pocket position (between middle row and bottom row).

Normally worn as a 6 on 2, as indicated by where the higher button is. You can see that the button stance is quite high. A lot of skirt below the bottom row of buttons.

5A6FB22C-75E9-4253-B84D-A93CD29608B4.jpeg


But it’s also so soft that it can be freely rolled lower to button at the bottom row, becoming a 6 on 1.

Upon a first day wear I think as a doppio petto trasformabile it is a successful trial, partly thanks to the soft but bouncy canvas , partly thanks to the studied cut. The lightweight 8oz Lumbs Golden Bale also helps.

I like that it has some drape across the chest and top arm. Very ample room through the torso, meanwhile still keeping the hourglass shape of waist suppression. I also like that the wide but blunt peak lapels gently point to the extended shoulders con rollino, emphasising the wide shoulders and broad chest (good for Asians like myself whose faces are on the wide side of the spectrum). Overall a long (82cm, or at the max length a jacket is supposed to be, i.e. touching the 2nd joint of fingers) and voluminous silhouette, and i think it is elegant and relevant.

I would have lowered the height of the gorge (it’s currently too high, pointing bit too close to the shoulder) - that would’ve been more elegant. But hey - a steal of a well-cut and well made full canvas navy giacca doppio petto trasformabile (which is already not something everyone can do); let alone at half price, what can i complain?

Last, some detailed shots of the make:

C9EF53DC-73A8-453A-A20C-6D26D33B0533.jpeg

Neat and subtle pick stitching along the edge seam. Fine buttonholes (not Milanese, but available upon request, though their Milanese tend to be in a larger teardrop shape). Cleanly taped seams from the unlined inside.

28627C62-51E4-4177-9DC1-6BCA726BF232.jpeg

Density of hand padding of lapels. Reverse side of button hole not as neat - but then this is rarely seen. And felt under collar as opposed to cloth itself.

But overall a very satisfying steal! Gonna wear it and love it for many good years to come.

Enjoy and keep safe everyone!

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce
 

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shirtingfantasy

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Slightly off-topic, Hong Kong patina artist:



I will try out the other, more famous "Patina K" in the coming weeks.

P.S. @JC852 it now starts at around HKD 1k for very basic house fabric and reaches around HKD 2k for TM Silverline, HKD 3k for Alumo entry-level fabric, HKD 3.5k for basic DJA...
 

sadkfjaskfaj

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What I want to know is...why do people pay for Prologue/Anthology MTM/RTW when you could get Lee Baron/William Cheng/other reputable bespoke for a bit less, or WW Chan-tier bespoke for a bit more.

They have cool house styles I guess, and fantastic marketing, but still...

Power of marketing I guess?
 
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sadkfjaskfaj

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Anyone know how to say "fresco" or “high twist” in Chinese?
 
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marchello

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What I want to know is...why do people pay for Prologue/Anthology MTM/RTW when you could get Lee Baron/William Cheng/other reputable bespoke for a bit less, or WW Chan-tier bespoke for a bit more.

They have cool house styles I guess, and fantastic marketing, but still...

Power of marketing I guess?

Any insight on where the trouser prices at Lee Baron or Willian Cheng start?
 

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