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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. geeboo

    geeboo Active Member

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    In reply to why there are wrinkles on the left pants, my wild guess are:
    1) the suits on the left are made of lighter 4 seasoned fabrics, ~ 270g or less i guess - more prone to wrinkles than heavier winter fabrics say 360g pure wool.
    2) Fat people, like me, knows. I want every dimension to be as tight as possible while being "tight-fit". The tighter the fit , the more prone to wrinkles. Why want so tight?, that is because of my thick waist & still want to make my waist line present. If one wants less wrinkles, no "X' wrinkles at the button, lessen the waist measurements by 1-2", the wrinkles are gone - less shape resulted.

    Imagine for Arnold, the body's chest-waist differential is well over 15 inches, what will he look like in a form-fitting suits ? I am sorry that your suit might fall into the "form fit" category. In standard sizing, a 46 sized suits means a waist of 46 and a chest of +2 inches or 48", this is the result of a generalization of pattern that will fit the majority of people. In other words, a garment's chest-waist differential of 2" can already show "a bit" of waist line, from my experiences, a chest-waist differential of 4" in the garment can already express a very defined waist line. If your body chest-waist differential is well over 4" and the tailor used form-fitting as in your case, the shape will be out of control. That is cutting.

    3) If you ever play rigid denim jeans [unwashed], U will know. In order to get the honeycomb at the back of the knees, you need a very tight mid-leg jeans. Jeans like Levis 33501 - a beggy cut - can hardly get these honeycomb. In short, the tighter the clothing, the easier the wrinkles appears. If one wants less wrinkles in the pants, get the thigh made 1-2" wider, the wrinkles are gone - same for the sleeves.
    4) some fabrics are born to have wrinkles. I can bet $100 dollars with you that 100% cotton, 100% linen, finest French calf, pure 150's super wool are guaranteed to wrinkle [a hell lot]. If one wants less wrinkles, use heavier fabric like tweed or heavier wool- like the right photo - or thick cotton twill or higher oz [thicker] leather in shoes or add some polyester in the wool.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017 at 8:21 AM


  2. Eucris

    Eucris Well-Known Member

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    geebo was it a conscious decision to commission baggy trousers?
     


  3. geeboo

    geeboo Active Member

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    1) there is not just 1 single cutting of pants in this world. I know the current trend is slim pants. I keep watching pitti uomo.
    2) I do have slim cut dress pants, in particular slim cut denim dress pants.
    Yes, it is intentional. Did you also notice my white-collar work shirt with chin-strap ? it is all about matching.
    P.S. U can call the middle Korean semi-causal.
    the 2nd pic is Ethan again in an Italian suit - straight or wide leg, cannot shown in the photo. Is that cool - very cool, IMO -> with "flare" - the highest level of mix & match, in which Mr. Park, the Korean, do not have, IMO !

    denim1.jpg

    denim2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017 at 7:56 AM


  4. Roen

    Roen Active Member

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    I'll try that.

    What would you suggest if they say I only gave them 5 days to make the suit?
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2017 at 8:31 AM


  5. Eucris

    Eucris Well-Known Member

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    Just tell them that the garments are not made to the required standard.
    I would wager that you might be offered a remake (free of charge), but in any case I would still decline it because a skilled tailor would never allow these garments to leave their workshop in the first place, it should have been blatantly obvious to them!
     


  6. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    It may be a matter of taste, but on the pic, your trouser look a bit short for the buggier style. Wide pants look nicer with longer length to my eyes.
     


  7. Eucris

    Eucris Well-Known Member

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    Well what matters most is that the trousers are made to your satisfaction. They're a bit avant-garde for my taste.
     


  8. MrBergschrund

    MrBergschrund Well-Known Member

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    @bamboo @geeboo @Eucris

    sorry guys.. i am not trying to pick up a fight and i am not going to sugarcoat anything but all i am trying to understand is where is the satisfaction? why are trousers styled that way in that fabric? why are the pockets so large in the blazer?

    ok let alone style or preference. the picture of chad park from bntailor, his leg (ankle) is at the centre of the trousers whereas the others they are side ways. it takes a lot of good craftsmanship to do it, and it is not pure luck someone got a very straight leg.

    secondly, the reason why i would do wide leg and excessive fabric is...
    1. army chino to show off the toughness
    2. luxurious fabrics (ie. 100% cashmere) to show off the drape and fluffiness of the luxurious fabrics
     


  9. Roen

    Roen Active Member

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    @GBR

    If the tailors attended the baste fittings at both shops, would this not indicate individual pattern?
     


  10. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    GBR,

    I think we don't need any new photo, we just need a photo that show you with your good fitting suit.
    You didn't take any picture with your suit before?
     


  11. geeboo

    geeboo Active Member

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    hi fish,
    I have been staying tuned to almost unmovable, how is your linen suit ?
     


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