Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. Roen

    Roen Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2017
    @bamboo
    @GBR

    Feedback requested!

    The first front facing closed jacket picture includes a credit card wallet and a phone in each interior jacket pocket. The second front facing closed jacket picture has empty interior jacket pockets. The first set is the suit commissioned from Empire International Tailors ($4976). The second set is the suit commissioned from Simpson Sin ($5500). The last set focuses on the complimentary shirt commissioned from Empire (Reg Price $399). I leave all my proper shoes at work so I will be taking the pictures with runners on. Please tell me if you think I have massively overpaid for these suits. These are my first two custom tailored suits. I have one that Ascot Chang is working on and will post to me once it is completed. All three suits had one baste fitting. Empire's suit took four days to complete. Simpson Sin's suit took five days to complete. Ascot quoted 5 weeks for theirs. Empire is half to 3/4 canvas. Simpson Sin is barely half canvas. Ascot is fully canvassed. Also, please tell me what cut (English, Italian, American) these suits most resemble.

    Empire Suit. Suit was pressed, then worn for a full work day two weeks ago before I put it on today. Pictures taken after another full work-day and dinner event, which involved sitting with the jacket on. Hopefully you can ignore the wrinkles caused by the day and just focus on where the suit fit could be improved.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Simpson Sin Suit. Suit was pressed, then worn for a full work day one week ago before I put it on for these photos.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Empire Shirt. Shirt was laundered in a washing machine after receipt, then dried in the dryer in dress shirt mode. No ironing. Shirt was worn under jacket for a full work day.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. MrBergschrund

    MrBergschrund Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    74
    Likes Received:
    12
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2016
    Thanks for the pictures and info. I think there are couple of reoccurring issues on the shoulders and back for both suits. Some of the parts are too tight. You might want to bring it back to get it fixed up if possible. 512EBDFA-033A-4C47-ACB3-B30FE49FEA79.jpeg 6C551D4B-FCDA-4E47-A17C-2BF7A83BF61C.png A6F21911-2F92-488D-A197-68670A4F98E5.png

    In addition, what is empire’s half to 3/4 canvas?

    In term of shirt, you might have better luck with jantzen or graly.
     


  3. cchen

    cchen Senior member

    Messages:
    2,700
    Likes Received:
    410
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2006
    Location:
    NYC / HK / London
    I believe so
     


  4. Roen

    Roen Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2017
    The canvas extends further down than Simpson, but is not fully canvassed.

    Thanks for the feedback!

    I've left HK and was a newbie when buying these suits. If I do go back, I'll request that they fix it. The suits did fit me better than OTR so I was happy regarding that. I wasn't really expecting perfection first time around, so I'm still learning as I go. I'll repost pictures after I get these suits pressed again, as well as when I get my Ascot suit pressed.

    I will say that the divoting looks very bad from the side angle, but isn't that bad from the front or back angles. I wonder if someone has pictures of a perfectly tailored suit that shows no divoting, from the front, side and back angles. Still, if I do get a chance, I would ask them to fix it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2017 at 1:21 PM


  5. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    8,045
    Likes Received:
    603
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    I'm afraid that either suit should have been allowed to leave the workroom/factory let alone the shop - unless you had told them that you were on your way back to CLK.

    many of the problems are repetitive.

    First Image

    Inked1_LI.jpg
    • Sleeves appear to be odd lengths and should have been cut to match the differing lengths of your two arms.
    • Far too tight
    • Did the sales person ask how you intended to use any of the inner pockets in the coat. He should have so done and adjusted the cut slightly to avoid these bulges.

    Second image
    Inked3_LI.jpg

    Difficult to find a kind word about this
    • The back is anything but 'clean' from the collar down. Dreadful and confirms a lack of concern; did the salesman or tailor doing the fitting?
    • Even allowing for the shoes the trouser legs exhibit differing lengths and are far too long anyway.

    THIRD

    Inked2_LI.jpg
    • Sleeve divot? No thanks!
    • Pulling because of tightness.
    FOURTH

    Inked4_LI.jpg

    Mmm
    • What are these sleeves supposed to be. Even allowing for your having worn it (which should not be necessary) these should not be present,
    FIFTH

    Inked9_LI.jpg
    • Length again
    • Don't like these wrinkles. cut wrong.


    SIXTH

    Inked2dtbuhy_LI.jpg

    • This is the cheapest form of back pocket with buttons possible. A decent tailor would do double jet/button through.

    These are not good at all and demonstrate the factory approach. That both suits have the same failings I do begin to wonder if they have been made in the same factory. No shop fronts in this price range will have their own work rooms and will simply contract with one or more factories to manufacture their products.

    I tend to thing that you paid at the top end of the range although I don't think that you have said what the cloth actually is - that could have a material effect on price - if it was a decent cloth it did not deserve this treatment.

    Can post pictures of the inside of the coat to see how tidy this is please?

    Thanks for posting these pictures, I appreciate it can be a bit soul destroying to have people find faults but if it helps people avoid such places, all to the good.

    Inked2_LI.jpg
     


  6. Roen

    Roen Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2017
    Thanks for this.

    Sorry, what's CLK?

    Salespersons at both places did the fitting, and neither place asked about how I intended to use the inner pockets.

    I feel like I need to post another set of pictures after the suits get pressed and I have the shoes I wore during fitting. I can understand both sets have issues but I would want to be accurate with my complaints back to the tailors.

    Empire (the navy suit) has replied that it was supposed to be close to an Italian Cut, which is their house Cut. Modern slim, yet business appropriate. They said the Fabric was from the Empire 2017 collection, 125-12. I can only assume that means a Chinese fabric. I quite like it though, regardless of origin.

    I have to find out more about Simpson Sin's fabric.

    I should have pictures of AC's VBC 225161 Dark Grey Mini Hopsack suit ($13.7k) in the next week or two.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2017 at 7:45 AM


  7. Eucris

    Eucris Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2014
    This looks like a cataclysmic failure, if it is possible, you should look to getting a refund. I just can't see how you can remediate these issues.

    Sorry for being blunt, I can't tell it any other way.
     


  8. Roen

    Roen Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2017
    Can you point out specifics? It would be more helpful than just a generic dismissal of the suits.

    As this is my first time commissioning a suit, it fits better than OTR by far. A bit more expensive too.
     


  9. Eucris

    Eucris Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2014
    I would refer to the comprehensive review done by GBR and MrBergshrund.

    I will add this, you should have a very clear idea of what you want to commission for example, the lapels look rather odd, it's not usual to have peak lapels on single-breasted suits, it looks rather fashion forward. However, if that's what you want, then that's your prerogative.
    In addition, only patronise well-established tailors going forward, as this will save you from having a splitting headache and burning your hard-earned cash.
     


  10. Roen

    Roen Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2017
    I asked for the peak lapels as that was a conscious choice. My other two commissioned suits both have notch lapels.

    I will heed that advice in the future. I happened on these two tailors through the magic of Yelp, TripAdvisor and YouTube.

    I think only having 5 days didn't help matters either, but I'm pretty sure there are some tailors that can build a perfectly fitting suit in that timespan.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2017 at 7:47 AM


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by