The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    I am following them but still undecided. I just tried new tailor recently so it takes some more time to decide. I think that there is a body type which goes well or bad with a particular cut (or pattern).

    I took another look of my garments and noticed one sifu I used in the past had the pocket placement similar to Prologue one. Quarter is more closed so it looks very different though.
     
  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Look more closely at this, there is one serious fault which stands out like a sore thumb. The lapel button hole should not be of key hole pattern, a very basic error and enough to damn the tailor in my eyes. He cannot know his trade if he allows such a thing to leave his work room in wearable form - as opposed to shredded
     
  3. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    I see what you mean. It looks they intentionally do this way (the same prominent key-hole including lapel button hole). I see most of the cases lapel button hole by hand is more straight and without key-hole than other button holes. I sometimes see those button holes all look similar but less distinctively key-hole. I don't know the correct answer. The key-hole on the Prologue pictures is quite big, I would prefer it to be more straight (or subtle).
     
  4. geeboo

    geeboo Member

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    I do not see it as a problem. If U take the SR standard as "the" ultimate standard; there would be not much variations let not to say a new signature cut of its own.
    Moreover, as they said themselves, their style is Italian-based, which U can see these type of holes in Sciamat & Rubinacci. In that sense, I think they have actually maintained the overall design integrity [not something English & something Italian] & their personal twist is spot-on.
    We could be more open in assessing new cuts. The Q is: Have they gone too far ? Is it beautiful ?
    I am afraid yr ans is yes while mine is no for the 1st Q

    hole.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017 at 11:56 PM
  5. dhkt

    dhkt Member

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    You are right. The keyhole shaped buttonhole is one of the features of their house style jacket.
     
  6. dhkt

    dhkt Member

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    One thing worth mentioning is that the milanese buttonholes are not able to hold their shapes if you wear lapel chains or boutonnière. The keyhole shape may be distorted even if you undo the "interior seams".
     
  7. geeboo

    geeboo Member

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    I do not reply for the sake of arguing. Since we are discussing, just voice out my opinion.
    Milanese holes differ from normal hand-sewn holes in the using of a gimp. I don't think it will weaken the structure or stiffness of the hole. One thing I observe is the weight of the fabric where one of my big Lapel, DB overcoat made of thick wool found its lapel hole distorted; not because of hanging something but because of the heavy Weight of fabric of the big lapel itself underneath the hole that literally pulls the hole farther apart; causing the distortion.
    If U are interested in seeing more hand -sewn button holes pics, I have a collection of photos in Pinterest.
    https://www.pinterest.com/chantommy5220/hand-sewn-button-holes/
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2017 at 12:13 AM

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