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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

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  1. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    That maybe the reason why Chan do not offer cmt.
     
  2. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    I do not think so . Even in Hong Kong , there are more than one tailor shop name Grand Tailor .
     
  3. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    I have doubt too .

    I don't think tailors prefer knowledgeable / demanding customers . It is not easy to satisfy them .

    CMT 4 suits a year does not mean tailor shop is happier than one non-cmt a year . Some tailor shops send demanding / fussy customers away .

    I think tailor shops prefer non knowledgeable / demanding customers instead .
     
  4. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior member

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    Tailor Baotou charge tailor shops about HK$2k workmanship for a full canvas suit. This is the cost of labour for tailor shops when customers choose CMT.
    Tailor Baotou charge walk-in customers HK$2.xk workmanship for a full canvas suit. This is the cost of workmanship for consumers when we choose tailor Baotou for CMT.

    Say I pick Dormeuil Amadeus 310g, it costs me HK$500/yard, and I need 3.3yards, that is HK$1.7k, cost of fabric.
    Say I pick Loro Piana 260g, it costs me HK$550/yard, and I need 3.3yards, that is HK$1.8k, cost of fabric.

    Tailor shops could charge HK$15k for a suit. Cost of labour + cost of fabric = less than HK$4k. Tailor shops profit is over HK$11k.
    Tailor shops could charge HK$8k for CMT. Cost of labour = HK$2k. Tailor shops profit is HK$6k.
    Profit difference tells, tailor shops prefer customers not to choose CMT. They have to make profit on workmanship + fabric + service to cover their rental.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2016
  5. kwoknero

    kwoknero Member

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    Well, Tailor Shops need to cover the rents of their shop. Hong Kong rental is ridiculous. Again, Baotou might be a good option, however, not every customers are savvy enough. Browsing online or reading books/magazines might give some knowledge. However, it doesn't mean you know all of the knowledge of a suit.

    Everyone preferences on suit are different as well.

    Take me as an example, I am lucky to have a tailor that is retire but working. He welcomes my CMT, it took us at least 3-4 times of CMT on pants alone to get what I like and what my preferences are. Along the way, he gave me advise, ask my opinions and notice my preferences. I don't know whether Baotou have the time to do so since they operate in a high volume setting.
     
  6. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior member

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    Is this thread reserved for you guys to repeat your referred tailor shops?

    Tailor Baotou is an alternative choice to consumers. Do consumers have a right to know the alternative? We, consumers pick whatever we prefer. I don't trust tailor shops, because they lie on fabric and I see they provide poor service. Why limit the choice for consumers? We, consumers don't have the responsibility to protect the interest of tailor shops. We, consumers protect our interest only. If one is no good, we go another one, or find the alternative. Why not? I call this consumer rights. I am a consumer, I am not related to this business.

    If I use your logic in an opposite direction, there are over 200 pages in this thread, and most are about tailor shops. There are non-stop repeat and repeat , again and again, info on a few tailor shops for over 200 pages. People get annoyed on limited choice. Why not info for alternatives? Why you repeat and repeat your preferred tailor shops? There are no others in HK?

    The term "Baotou" refers to tailors behind tailor shops. There are too many Baotou, just like there are too many tailor shops. I never name a Baotou, therefore, this is not an advertisement for any Baotou. You named a few tailor shops, is that advertisements? If you say Baotou is an advertisement, your info is over 200 times of my info!
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2016
  7. BigbigJohnny

    BigbigJohnny Well-Known Member

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    I've tried those traveling tailors from Italy. They do what you exactly said. I had some very bad experience with them. So it doesn't only happen in Hk.


     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2016
  8. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior member

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    You are right. Every consumer has different needs, we should have althernative choice.

    CMT requires us to shop for fabric somewhere else. This is not easy for those who don't have much time, and it requires consumers to have some fabric knowledge. Tailor shop is a one stop place for consumers, and tailor shops are supposed to provide good service. There are different risks on both supply side.

    Baotou are the tailors behind tailor shops. They are self-employed , their major customers are tailor shops. They are very busy during high season, and not too busy during low season. Some might not take order from walk-in customers during very high season, depending on their workload . They give advise to walk-in customers, just the same as usual. They advise on fabric as well. High season is Sept to Chinese new year, and the rest is low seaon.

    Some Baotou are good, and some are bad. Just like tailor shops, some are good and some are bad.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2016
  9. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Can you tell us more about your own experience with travelling tailors ?
     
  10. IsABellyDad

    IsABellyDad Active Member

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    Interesting. I thought that some "top tier" tailors insist on their "house style". Would love to hear more (because I simply cannot afford that).

    I think HK tailors need to face the fact that information is now much more readily available. If they just open a shop at a decent location and expect to charge a premium, that won't work for many local customers - particularly those who care to spend some time to surf online and gather more information. On the contrary, if a tailor spends quality time to understand the needs of the customers and give professional advice, and takes the business seriously particularly during fitting and QA, as a customer who doesn't mind paying more to get service (or "avoid troubles", or "get the peace of mind"), I don't mind paying a few thousand more - as I barely make 1 or 2 suits per year.
     
  11. IsABellyDad

    IsABellyDad Active Member

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    True. The price difference for different fabrics is one thing that I particularly dislike... particularly when I think most tailors do not need to bear inventory risk (they order the fabric only after the customer has selected the fabric and paid the deposit).

    Yet, I need to say that based on my "online observation" and limited paid lessons, Chan is still the best in town - particularly if Patrick is following through. Of course, this also comes with a premium - particularly for "better" fabrics as you mentioned.

    I'm actually not aware that Ascot Chang charges higher for over 140's - maybe I've only brought them normal TM fabrics for CMT.

    Getting bored with too many words... so, sharing a photo of my double breasted jacket (half lining) from Chan:
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Have you tried Grand Tower ?
     
  13. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Should be Grand Tailor .
     
  14. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Fully agree , tailor shops with a decent (high rent) location which charged a high premium is getting harder and harder to survive .
     
  15. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    If the man is a capable business man, all he should do is load his margin on the cloth back to the CMT price.
     
  16. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    A very bad sign if a tailor considers his customers to be nuisances fit only to be sent on their way. A first commission may be more time consuming for him, get it right and the client will have enjoyed the experience, have what he wants and go back and back.... That is how a long term relationship between cutter and client is created to the advantage of both.
     
  17. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    The problem with "Grand Tailor" as used on this Board, is that there are several. Few actually make clear which one they mean. I did specify which GT and will stand by my comments.
     
  18. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Not quite sure what this diatribe is actually trying to say but no one saying is telling anyone which tailor to visit, Make your own choice, the more discerning, however, will have their favoured cutter as commissioning a suit is far more than a visit to a shop between going into a Starbucks or 7-11 shop.

    To the discerning, changing a cutter is not something to be done lightly. I did that earlier this year but not after having taken advice from a friend who probably knows more about bespoke and getting the best out of a cutter by building a strong relationship with him than 80% of the contributors to this Board out together. I have been buying bespoke suits for nigh 50 years BUT I'm not too proud to learn from someone who is very much younger than me but whose skills are self evident. I was in a comfort zone from which I needed to pushed from very sharply, it is working well.
     
  19. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Some do have house styles, there is nothing wrong with that but if you don't like what they offer, go somewhere else.
     
  20. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    I believe we are always talking about the Grand Tailor with Mr Hui in Causeway Bay. There are other Grand Tailors but not in Causeway Bay and no person name Mr Hui .
     

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