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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

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  1. galileo

    galileo Senior member

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    It's single button design, the button opening is bit higher, and trousers actually sits at natural waist
     
  2. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    You need trousers at a proper level for one button jackets - and the buttoning point could be lower.
     
  3. galileo

    galileo Senior member

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    Will tell Ricky, did find trousers sits bit lower than expected
     
  4. lolo85

    lolo85 New Member

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    I came across this site over the weekend with the hope of reading as much as I could before a trip to HK in January. Well, I just got word from my boss that the trip was moved up and thus I leave this Friday for 6 - 8 days.

    I'm reading as quickly as possible but am wondering if you all could give me a bit of guidance in choosing a tailor(s) to get the following made: 1 suit (full canvas) with 1 extra pair of trousers, 2-4 pairs of trousers, and 3-5 shirts. My budget is in the 15,000 - 20,000 HKD range but I understand the fabrics I choose could push this up or keep me in range (preferred).

    A coworker recommended Empire International and another recommended Sam's for a suit. Based on my a couple of hours of reading posts here, Lee Baron, Michael/Ng Sifu, Ascot Chang, and WW Chan seem to get a lot of mention. I'm not ready to go to the high-end shops just yet am leaning towards Lee Baron and Michael/Ng Sifu for a full canvas suit. For shirts, I'm thinking AC. Any suggestions for trousers / is my budget enough to allow for some standalone trousers?

    I'm still reading through posts, but again, any guidance is appreciated.

    Also, I don't have a typical build - I'm 6'6", 225lbs FWIW.
     
  5. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ascot Chang shirts may bump out most of the tailored goods off your agenda. Not that they charge US$500 for everything, but when you get to decent-quality cotton the price climbs much faster than it would in England or Europe. I don't know if that is a quirk of their tax system, or just pricing strategy.

    Down the road, the best value with AC is doing CMT with your own fabric. If it's not super-superfine stuff, the bill is about US$150/shirt. It gets closer to $200 if you send Super 170s or 200s. Plus fabric, of course. That's not exactly cheap when you use fabric worth making good shirts from, but it's a significant discount from what they'd charge for their own best (often excellent) stuff.

    A lot of this depends on how much you need clothing delivered quickly. The best strategy may be to nail down a shirtmaker, and continue to buy suits and trousers off-the-rack at home unless you're impossible to fit, or you have off-center tastes in fabrics. Frankly, I find that a lot of cheaper HK suits look like cheap HK suits.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2016
  6. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Hong Kong don't have any import or export tax on clothing.
     
  7. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Ascot Chang shirt is around $1500 with house fabric .

    For your budget, maybe

    Ascot Chang for shirts.

    Lee Baron for full canvas suit.

    Michael / Ng sifu for odd trousers。

    You can try all tailors you are considering and still within your budget .
     
  8. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I think with that budget it is better to skip the suit for next time, and to use those money to buy good shirts and odd trousers instead.

    Frankly your budget is too cheap to get any decent looking stuff, if you are getting that much.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2016
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I am still using Moda Republic for lower price range beater items. Lots of posters here have high standards and wouldn't use them, but if you're keen on getting something for that price range they are good value. I am still wearing their jackets even if they don't fit as well as my higher end ones, and the trousers/shirts are more than serviceable.

    This is not to say add911 and co's advice is wrong, if you end up having a high standard you might feel like it's a waste of money because you'd never be caught dead in lower-mid range tailors in HK (it sounds like that's how they feel anyway) but high standards are a luxury. Most people won't mind or in fact would think the quality of the slightly lower range items are quite impressive. The question is if you'd feel that way, or if people you associate with would. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents because there are lots of people on these forums which want the best, which is admirable, but sometimes people just need enough clothes to wear and be presentable.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    These are my first two jackets from Moda. Armholes a bit large, needed some adjustments on shoulders, but now fit absolutely fine, especially in bulkier fabric (going to get a piece made in fresco and will see how it is). I think it's perfectly respectable if you just need a suit made.

    I think they fit better than my Simpson Sin suits (I got 3 jackets/suits from them), and they are slightly cheaper than SS.

    Full disclosure I'm in talks of becoming a London agent with Moda and planning to partnering with them for an MTM program. I have no current financial link with them though, aside from being a repeat customer. I also mostly wear Dream Bespoke, WW Chan suits/jackets, and Luxire myself.

    80% of my shirts are from Moda, though I have a few from Luxire and Chan. They're fine, they're shirts. Sometimes you just need something to wear that will be barely seen anyway, and they're at a price range that beats or are similar to RTW. I find Chris easier to work with than the staff at Jantzen by far. (Obv Ricky and Chan staff are great too). There are some other similar price range shirt makers that are well received but I have no experience with them. Dream is not much more expensive either but I haven't made shirts with them because I'd been happy with Moda. Trousers are relatively cheap with Moda, but I mostly use Luxire for that in the past since I'm overseas, but plan on getting a few more made with Moda.

    I want to say that I think Ascot Chang or WW Chan price range for shirts is really bad budgeting advice. They might be really good, but priorities wise, getting a well fitting jacket, a well fitting pair of trousers, and also nice shoes, is a far better investment than shirts, and the increase in quality moving from 300-400 HKD shirt to Ascot Chang level, especially when you want 5-10 shirts (which may need replacing after a year or two depending on how many you have and how often you wear them), is just not a sensible use of money if you're short on it. Heck if you want to, it's better to get 1 shirt made from a high end tailor and then have it copied by a cheaper tailor or Luxire or other MTM program. As long as the collar are looks reasonably good, and you keep your jacket on, the rest of the shirt fit doesn't matter except for some comfort levels anyway, and let's be honest, pretty much any tailor can adjust the sleeves length and width so it looks okay under a jacket.

    Like, if you guys want to be really elitist about the jackets and trousers (mine aren't the best fitting I admit, even if I do feel happy in them), then I think it's reasonable to save up for a good tailor for those, but for 10 shirts made in a cheaper tailor instead of ascot chang, that's enough for a suit at WW Chan almost.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2016
  10. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    @Isolation very well said! There are some good analysis there.

    Based on OP's request, and in my own experiences, male workers nowadays rarely obliged to wear a suit and tie everyday. Most people either wear streetwear or trouser+shirt to work.

    Therefore, I just find for the average to get nicely made shirt (with suitable fabric for the weather, not necessarily the fine but non-breathable stuff) and good trouser (with fabrics which irons wear, will not get worsted on the crouch quickly) is FAR more important to get an exquisite suit.

    I don't find shirts and trouser have such lesser life then suits. In fact, my longest kept items are some of my old shirts for 5-6 years.

    Your help will be appreciated by OP. BTW good luck with your venture with Moda.
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2016
  11. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks! I'll be sure to post examples of things made by them for the thread.
     
  12. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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  13. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Everyone has his/her own logic of how to spend .
     
  14. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    That's rarely possible.
     
  15. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Quote: I was given the option to do that with Chan, though I did order more.

    Quote: That's what I am saying though, isn't it?

    I'm saying that it's valid as well, for instance, to buy cheaper shirts, and use cheaper tailors, and have a more varied, seasonal wardrobe. That is clearly a less popular opinion in this thread, where it feels like everyone advises on spending the most possible on suits, and if you can't afford 8k+ on a suit, then you might as well not get one, which I think, is clearly not true. At some of the cheaper tailors you can get something better for the price than RTW options, which is what they'd have to do if they didn't get something made at one of the more expensive tailors, especially if they have an odd fit.
     
  16. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    I agree your point . Similar to a guy has a budget on honda accord/ toyota camry ask for opinion to select a humble family sedan . People here tell him to buy a expensive motorcycle such as BMW.
     
  17. BigBadBernard

    BigBadBernard Senior member

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    I would, in your shoes, spend as much of the budget as possible on the suit, otherwise you will end up with crap. I'll defer to others on the right tailor as I have never had suits made in HK.

    Graly shirt makers are a good lower cost option for shirts. I have found that spending more money on shirt makers in HK brings diminishing marginal returns very quickly. You can get a decent shirt for HKD450 for the cheaper house fabrics, to HKD900 for Thomas Mason. I had a handful of the latter made on my last visit and they were good value - just be sure to tell him absolutely everything you want to be featured (e.g. removable collar stiffeners, mop buttons, etc) or you might have choices made for you that you won't like. Generally he can turn shirts round in 3-4 days.
     
  18. Hifilover

    Hifilover Senior member

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    Any review ?
     
  19. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Actually picking the right shirt fabric and cut matters a lot if you are going to use them in tropical climate.

    I used to live in a western climate and frankly any cheap twill and low poly mix shirts will not be uncomfortable. Since it will be true that you will always have your jacket on and almost never sweat in outdoor.

    However, if you live in a place like in Hong Kong, it is vital to choose fabrics which drys-up quickly and reasonably breathable. I have got rid of all my T&A shirts for this sole reason even if there were no problem with the fit and its machine work.

    For my shirting, I will now particularly choose cotton/linen mix, washed cottons and thin s120s as they tend to accommodate humid and hot weather more. I will not choose any oxford or twills (no mater they are cheap or expensive) because it is unsuitable.

    Shirts are long lasting garments if you don't tumble dry them and wash it in cool water.

    Therefore, I do think paying attention to shirts has its part.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016
  20. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    At least we are not arbitrarily driving him to get Maserati or Porsche in his first round!

    We are just driving him to get a Vellfire. Although it is not the cheapest, but at least you will appreciate its quality even when you choose to move to Maserati or Porsche in the future.

    :bounce2::bounce2::bounce2::bounce2::bounce2:
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016

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