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The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

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    Oh, do they do full canvass in default ? I did have a Suit commissioned ..... around 4-5 years ago, it is at home so I have to check when I go back end of August.

    For shirts I also like Collar Season, their promotion fabric could be a deal but wasn't my cup of tea that time, so I pick from their other fabric which is not exceptionally a deal but not too expensive compare to others big name. Fit was perfect in first trial, might go back to them to check out the promotion fabric when I am in Hong Kong again.

    Recently had my suits made in Tokyo, one in Ueno area and one just behind Shinjuku, both with handwork on par with European names. They even on default do shank button for shirts, do any SF experts knows HK tailor that do shank buttons ?

    But....the one thing Hong Kong has advantage is the speed.....My tailor in Shinjuku took month and a half for 2 shirts.....
     


  2. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

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    Are these call Shank button ? I could be wrong, but button as in the pic (stole it from gentlemansgazette) where the button is lifted up to avoid bunching up the fabric, for that Japanese tailor - sure in the sleeve button (thick becoz of the fuse), depend on the fabric other buttons will also be shank-ed.
    [​IMG]


    You could be right, my suit was commissioned 4~ years ago, I did walk pass Beaux two weeks ago but didn't spot Mr. Leung inside so didnt get in the shop.
     


  3. billbro

    billbro Active Member

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    Went for my second visit to Moda Republic and had a quick chat with Chris, fairly impressed with my first fitting as well. Moda Republic seemed to have the fit down reasonably well for an initial cut, which Chris warned me would be a bit loose anyway so that they could adjust it.

    In contrast I went to pick up my half a dozen shirts from Lee Baron on what is probably my 4th or 5th order from them and they still managed to mess up my french cuff shirt sleeve length and there are a number of loose threads. I guess I am just a very small fish in Peter's big pond, so I don't merit as much attention. He also wasn't able to fix the issue with the bunching of fabric around the chest of my jacket either...

    End of my rant, but seems like I'll be giving Moda Republic a thumbs up and switching over pending my final shirts. Then again I haven't tried DB yet and you guys seem to love them.
     


  4. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

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    Don't get me wrong ~ Mr. Leung is def. a honest man and gentleman.

    Price is not just reasonable but worth the buck. But I agree communication is more important than to assume certain things being done....working cuff, full canvass.....and in the skill level Mr. Leung's team can handle them.

    Moda Republic, another interesting one, bad words and good words floating around. I have yet to visit so cannot comment, but my HK colleague did recommend them for shirts.
     


  5. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

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    Nope,

    not close to the office in HK I worked in,
    and their lower price stuff only carries some un-known fabric
     


  6. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I've seen what I think is the same batch of " egyptian cotton" twill fabrics from several tailors including Jantzen and Moda and some other ones, and I've had a few shirts made from it, and to be honest it's actually my favorite, and I like it better than the Lori Piani I had made. In generaI don't have a very expensive taste in shirts, but I'm quite happy with the stuff they have.

    I still haven't had suits made by Moda, and we haven't heard back from the last guy, but I can say with relative confidence that their shirting's pretty damn good value for price.
     


  7. ebayhtl

    ebayhtl Senior member

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    Wow, since last time I came into this thread, a lot of not so useful posts...

    Anyway, does anyone have a recommendation for someone who can make ties thinner in HK?

    I have a couple of quite nice ties that are just a little too wide for me - I want to get them from 3.5-4" to perhaps 2.5".

    Thanks!
     


  8. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    This is a continuation of earlier posts....

    The focus of my wardrobe refresh project continues to remain on the jackets at this stage.

    You may recall from my last post that I recently returned two new blazers (i.e. classic fit, English regular-military cut, 2-button single breasted in black and navy blue) to my Hong Kong tailor (Ash Samtani) to have some minor adjustments made.

    In the case of the navy blue blazer, the sleeves were to be shortened.

    In addition, the metals buttons on both jackets were to be swapped around. The end result being the 4-hole polished .925 silver metal buttons finishing up on the navy blue blazer and the 4-hole polished gold-toned metal alloy buttons finishing up on the black blazer. See photo below. Personally, I'm extremely pleased with the results. However, I appreciate that classic 4-hole polished metal buttons are not everyone's cup of tea here at the SF, especially in these subdued times.

    Buttons aside, I will post some photos of "the fit" end results shortly, within the next 1-2 days.

    The trousers (multiple pairs), frankly, are a bit of a disaster (i.e. major cut imbalance issues) at the present time and will have to be remade I expect. But that's another story in this continuing sartorial saga and I will post about the trousers, once the present jacket focus has been successfully completed.

    More to follow...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2014


  9. lloydey900

    lloydey900 New Member

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    Im am new to Hong Kong and would like a recommendation for a Tailor with the price range in between 2000-3000 HKD for a suit, I havnt seen any in between this bracket so would appreciate some thoughts?
     


  10. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Think you're better off going for the slightly more expensive bracket. Probably worth it. At 2-3k you're looking at fused suits and so on. You CAN get some cheap but passable suits though. idk maybe check out Cheung Hing heheh.
     


  11. billbro

    billbro Active Member

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    Sorry been pre-occupied with a few personal matters and work since returning from Hong Kong.

    I'll post a review and my thoughts once I get a chance in the next week or so - I received my two trial shirts a few days ago from Moda Republic. The shirts weren't perfect, but it is fairly safe to say I'll be looking to move my shirting from Lee Baron to Moda - though in small orders until the fit is perfected.

    At a high level without writing out a full review/posting photos:

    Fit/Cut: Peter currently has a better cut/pattern for my shirts than Moda - but we are comparing apples with oranges given the number of times and corrections I've had with Peter
    Price: Pretty even, Eddy and Chris at Moda have quoted me different prices (which I need to clarify) though it is on par or a bit more expensive than Peter
    Buttons: Moda have nicer looking MOP to me and more choices, but their smallest buttons are as small as I like for my button downs
    Service: Moda hands down trumps Peter for me (though a cynic would argue Moda is still building their brand rep). Basically, I'm likely to receive useful advice from Moda and the staff are readily able to understand my specific requirements. In contrast, Peter is likely to always tell me the the item is fine even if there are apparently issues - although he always fixes them, he needs to be firmly managed from a QC perspective.
    Fabric: Moda has a larger array of choices at a basic/house level - Peter has plenty of swatches, but prices can be quite variable.

    Anyway, I'll try and write a more thorough and structured review when the time permits.
     


  12. AlexE

    AlexE Senior member

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  13. Nayr-

    Nayr- Member

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    I'm in Hong Kong now and am super satisfied with the fabric variety available which is absent in Singapore. Any recommendations for suit linings, preferably fun ones. I visited merino bro but their linings are out of my budget.
     


  14. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    .... This is a continuation of earlier posts.

    The focus of this post is on shirts. Specially, this is a cautionary tale about high quality "Sea Island cotton" fabric (ahem) "shrinkage" and the undesirable flow-on effects and negative impact to my requirement for the usual 1/4 to 1/2 half inch of shirt cuff exposure at the wrist when wearing a jacket.

    The first picture below shows the "master pattern shirt" (a white button down sports shirt made from Sea Island cotton) taken during my recent sartorial visit to HK back in April. Note: the specified 1/4 to 1/2 inch of visible shirt cuff on display. Now fast forward to June (three months and 3-4 normal washes and irons of the master pattern shirt since HK). Now, note the absence of visible shirt cuff on display. Both pictures of the shirt where taken wearing exactly the same black blazer.

    Now, recall that I've not just got one new shirt made from Sea Island cotton but dozens of them, as my earlier pictures attest. Luke (the managing director and cutter) at Ash Samtani assures me that the Sea Island cotton fabrics used to make the majority of my shirts where all pre-washed to avoid fabric shrinkage. Alas, not so well in my case it now appears.

    In any event, the problem has affected the master pattern shirt and, therefore, can "logically" be expected to affect the remaining new shirts (copies) made from the same fabric too.

    My proposed resolution to this problem is: (1) for me to quickly wash (several times) and then iron all the remaining new shirts made from the above fabric in an effort to hasten the (ahem) "shrinkage effect", and (2) if so, then return the shirts to Ash Samtani in HK for adjustment (i.e. replace all sleeves from matching fabric that has first been pre-washed not once but "several times" before use).

    Last but not least, I would greatly appreciate hearing from any other SF brothers/sisters out there that have experienced similar shirt sleeve length shrinkage problems and whether you were able to resolve them successfully, without having to remake the entire shirt. Thanks!

    More to follow...

    Before (April 2014):

    [​IMG]

    After (June 2014):

    [​IMG]

    EDIT: My tailors (Ash Samtani) have kindly agreed to replace any shrunken sleeves on my Sea Island cotton shirts at no charge. They've asked me to hasten the shrinkage process along by putting all my new shirts through several washing and ironing cycles before returning them to HK for remedial work. On their part, I will be asking them to do the same (i.e. several pre-washing and ironing cycles) on the matching fabric they use to make the replacement sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2014


  15. BespokeKiwi

    BespokeKiwi Senior member

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    In relation to my above post about shirt sleeve length shrinkage, I've been doing some research here at SF and found a good thread on the subject.

    It appears there are other options (than simply remaking the whole sleeve) available, e.g. like adding additional matching fabric at the sleeve head end (concealed inside the arm hole seam) at gain a little more length.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/161508/possible-to-lengthen-a-shirt-sleeve

    EDIT: My tailors (Ash Samtani) have kindly agreed to replace any shrunken sleeves on my Sea Island cotton shirts at no charge. They've asked me to hasten the shrinkage process along by putting all my new shirts through several washing and ironing cycles before returning them to HK for remedial work. On their part, I will be asking them to do the same (i.e. several pre-washing and ironing cycles) on the matching fabric they use to make the replacement sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2014


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