Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.
What is cloth of brown one? Looks nice.
Actaully both are brown. The sb is Harrison Edinburgh Fine Classic and the db is vintage Dormeuil fresco.
I am glad that you like it.
Hi add911, very good cut and craftsmanship especially the pagoda shoulders looks excellent on you.
Fish, what are you talking about??
Can someone recommend a cheap tailor in HK to get grey flannel pants done? I usually use Peter Lee and I am satisfied, but one pair of pants with him is HK$1400, which is a little too much for me at this point. Can you guys recommend anyone cheaper who could do it maybe for HK$500-1000?
Unless contact tailors directly at TST
I am afraid you can't get the decent flannel pants made.
I believe good flannel material cost nearly 1k
I thought the poster meant CMT price, as you said decent flannel pants at 1K seems unlikely.
As I heard, Peter Lee CMT for a pant with Shanghai style craftmanship is HK$1300. However, he may offer cheaper CMT with canton style craftmanship.
What's the difference ?
Hmm.. If you used VBC flannel, then I think it is well below 1k for 1.3m
You can get as low as HKD350 for decent canton craftsmanship cmt for pants.
A Tailor can explain the difference by show a sample of typical shangahi craftsamanship and canton craftsmanship.
How do you define "decent canton craftsmanship cmt for pants"?
Smith Woollen bunches have arrived. At this moment, we have these three collections:
1) Travel Suitings (including the famous 9/10oz 3ply and 12-13oz 4ply Finmeresco)
2) Luxury Flannels (different weights of flannels and also the Smith signature original Solaro)
3) Super Kid Mohair (3 different weights and compositions of Mohair+merino wool blends)
... This is a continuation of my earlier posts.
The focus of this post is on jackets. In particular, my latest new jacket -- a classic fit single breasted 2-button navy blue blazer with 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons.
While I was in HK for one week recently -- on the jackets side -- I commissioned three blazers, two suits, and belatedly two car coats. Unfortunately, my tailor (Ash Samtani) failed to complete my original order on time. Consequently, I was unable to try on all my new blazers and suits before departing HK, which prudently should always be done when possible.
Instead, I only got to try on the black blazer, mustard coloured linen trousers, and assorted shirts that were featured in earlier posts. The idea was that the black blazer and mustard linen pants would be used as the master pattern templates for the outstanding garments to be based on. Nice in theory but not so easy in practise, as I will expand upon below and in my future posts.
In any event, pictured below is my new navy blue blazer that I received this week in the post from HK. It is the second of my outstanding blazer (3) and suit jacket (2) deliveries. The poor quality images (sorry) below are courtesy of my local alterations tailor in Auckland, New Zealand.
Overall, I'm happy with the fit of the blazer front and back, with the obvious exception of the sleeves that are 1cm (0.39 inch) longer than aforementioned black blazer that all the other jackets are supposed to be patterned off. The result being that there is no shirt cuff is visible, which is not ideal from my perspective.
So, disappointingly, the navy blue blazer is being returned to HK next week to have the sleeves adjusted, along with the master pattern as required. Also, I will be getting my tailor to remove the existing buttons and replace them with 4-hole polished .925 silver buttons, which I recently had custom made in HK with the much appreciated assistance of my tailor. See picture of custom made buttons below.
The existing 4-hole polished gold-toned alloy buttons will be used to replace the shanked heraldic buttons presently on my black blazer (not pictured below). Unfortunately, I have decided to return the black blazer to HK too for the following reasons: (1) the pitch of the black jacket's sleeves are out slightly resulting an obvious unbalanced shirt cuff slant (visible from side on) and a concave shirt cuff appearance (visible from front on) and (2) the tailor forgot to hand pick the lapels and flap pockets as promised.
To their credit, my tailor (Ash Samtani) willingly agreed to do all the above rework at no cost, where they are at fault. In fact, the first fault on the black blazer mentioned above was identified by the Ash Samtani itself from photos and they immediately offered to put it right, which I greatly appreciated.
Obviously, it remains for the all important "fit" and master patterns to be properly nailed down before all the other outstanding garments can be reworked (as required) and shipped. So, I expect it will now be another few weeks/months before the present outstanding order fulfilment issues can be fully resolved. While I am disappointed with the mounting error count and fit issues, I am confident in the character and commitment of Ash Samtani, who have assured me that they will correct any mistakes made on their part at no extra cost to me.
So, the moral of this story is: that even if you take the time and expense to travel to HK (14 hours flying time each way in my case) to visit your tailor in person for one week, there is still no guarantee that your client (patron?) experience will be painless and carefree. The bespoke sartorial pathway is certainly not for the faint hearted or impatient personality types. And, the higher your sartorial knowledge and expectations are, then the higher the hurdles you may have to face -- as you press your tailors for the very best work they're capable of. Especially, if like me, you don't have the budget for absolute top notch Saville Row and/or HK tailors (e.g. WW Chan etc) at this time.
I will post another update when either: (1) my adjusted blazers have been returned or (2) any of my other outstanding order items are delivered.
More to follow...
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