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The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

PekingRoadHK

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People have been to the wrong places that don't suit them. What happened?

People have been to the wrong places for the products that don't suit them. What are the reasons behind? They have one thing in common, they got wrong expectation! Most HK tailor shops and baotou produce HK cut only, only very few produce either British cut or Italian cut. When people go to tailor shops or baotou that don't produce what they want, they will never get the products that best suit them. When people do good research before we go to the right places, we got good products!

Tailor shop owners go Baotou for help, they hire baotou to take orders for tailor shops. There are baotou who were working as in-house tailors for famous bespoke tailor shops. Baotou are the same people behind tailor shops. So, why not consumers go baotou? There are good and bad, just like tailor shops, there are too many. We go to the right baotou for the right products, we can pick the right fabrics and by-pass all middlemen for the same good products, this is smart spending.

Very simple logic:
- If good baotou don't produce good products, how come good baotou are loaded of orders?
- Consumers see bad products from famous tailor shops, why not consumers choose to go baotou?
- Why pay more to tailor shops when we can get the same products from baotou?
- What if we don't see the value from tailor shops, why not go for baotou?
- What if we see better products from baotou than tailor shops?
- If baotou service is nonsense, how can baotou survive for over 5 decades?
- If baotou service is not widely accepted, how come baotou is a part of globalization?
- Baotou is a part of global supply chain, this is the reality. Is the world wrong?
- Fashion designers from global brand names have been ordering baotou to make sample garments before they pass on the mass production work to factories. If baotou don't produce good products, why famous brand names order baotou to make samples?
- Consumers see good products from baotou, why not?
- Do consumers have free choice?
- People from around the world have said thank you to me, that opens them to the new world of baotou, why? Because people see we have been to the right place for the right products.

There are 2 markets:
1) Tailor shop market
2) Baotou market

1) People suit to go tailor shops are people who don't do research and they go one place for all for services. They don't know what they want, they need tailor shops to tell them what they want. They don't have much time and they want services, they pay more for the same products. They go Baotou, they don't feel right, they have been to the wrong places for the products that don't suit them. That's what happened. They need services, they should not go baotou.

2) People suit to go baotou are people who know what they want. We do good research, we don't need people to tell what we need. We go baotou for the right products, we can get even better services from tailor shops. This is smart spending. We don't like tailor shops, we don't go tailor shops. We like baotou, we go baotou.

We see good products from baotou when we go to the right places.

This one is made by a sifu that produces British cut, original from sifu IG:
not-italian-jpg.1862601


This one made by a sifu that produces Italian cut, original from sifu IG:
3ca0c261-bb1f-4095-8e8b-dad51338b841-jpeg.1861139


When one says bad experiences from baotou, I also see bad experiences from tailor shops and bespoke. The fact is there are good and bad experiences from both baotou and tailor shops. There is no one single baotou or tailor shop that can serve all kinds of consumers. We are consumers, we make our choice, we don't need people to tell what we want. We know what we want and where to go. There are too many, we pick whatever we prefer.

---------------------

Someone said adding a few Italian options does not make Italian cut, e.g. spalla camicia or milanese buttonhole. I agreed.

Same idea, adding a few British options does not make British cut, e.g. ticket pocket.

I also got suits of British cut with milanese buttonhole and suits of Italian cut with ticket pocket.

These are examples when people going to places with wrong expectation:
1) been to a sifu of British cut, expecting Italian cut by adding spalla camicia or milanese buttonhole. At the end, it's not Italian cut. And the opposite way, been to a sifu of Italian cut, expecting British cut by adding ticket pocket. At the end, it's not British cut.
2) been to sifu of HK cut, expecting British cut or Italian cut. At the end, it's HK cut.

What is HK cut? A sifu charging less told me he does not make British cut or Italian cut, he makes suits that are well fine fitted, nothing too fancy, he calls that HK cut. He said we can order spalla camicia, milanese buttonhole, ticket pocket. At the end, it is HK cut. Many baotou and tailor shops in HK are making suits that fit well, they don't make British cut or Italian cut, this is the majority. If this is not called HK cut, we can call that ordinary cutting.

This is wrong expectation from the majority. When we see a few beautiful options or certain style, we want to make the same. Keep in mind, after all the options we can add, cutting and fitting are 2 different issues. We can get fine fitting, but the cutting might not as we expect. Custom made garments, suits, overcoats, leather jackets, we can get fine fitting. The cutting is another issue. If we insist British cut or Italian cut, we need to go to the right sifu for British cut or Italian cut. Other than that, ordinary suits of fine fitting is good enough for the majority.

e.g. I planned to make a Tom Ford leather jacket, I can order everything that looks like that. At the end, it's a well fine fitted jacket, it's a nice leather jacket. It's not Tom Ford leather jacket.

-----------------------

don't waste your time for baotou for some people:
I have explained this issue long time ago. Unlike tailor shop, baotou has no customer service or sales people guiding. Consumers who need services or guiding should not go baotou, this is no joke. If you are a tourist or staying in HK for short term, baotou is not right for you. It takes time to search this and that, from sourcing fabrics to searching sifu. You don't know what you need, you don't know alot more for the right things for you. The answer is "NO". Baotou is not right for you.

Baotou is for consumers who can do self-serve only. There is no CS, no guiding, no one tells you what you really need. You are on your own, you need to know what you need. It takes time to search for your fabrics and sifu. I tell an alternative to tailor shops, I share whatever I want, I don't report to anyone. I write alot here and in my blog(s) to open a new world to many people. People read and they go on for their search, they become baotou consumers. I made it very clear, you don't need to follow my choice. People don't like to read and say this is too many words, you don't have patience to do research. The answer is "NO". Baotou is not right for you. Don't waste your time. Bye bye, you don't want to hear baotou issue.
 
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PekingRoadHK

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We have to look at the flow and the cut on the real body as a whole. Don't just look at British options for British cut or Italian options for Italian cut.

This is not my jacket. I know I look better with British cut than Italian cut.
You might look better with British cut or Italian cut, depending on your body. No need to follow others, we have different bodies and taste. #1,771 explained more details.

original from sifu IG:
1.jpg
 
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JohnMRobie

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I don’t see anything English about that jacket.
 

PekingRoadHK

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need to look at the flow and the cut on the real body.
it's more or less sometime.
 

Warrant_Buffet

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Huntsman?
Hard to tell but Huntsman tends to have a meaner shoukder roping I'd say.

Just a collage of British-styled jackets for comparison:
The-Rake-Huntsman-SS17-00002-1200x800-1.jpg

Huntsman
dege3-664x442-c-center.jpg

Dege & Skinner
Merchant-and-Makers-Henry-Poole-Co-Savile-Row-5.jpg

Henry Poole
P2500657.jpeg

Anderson & Sheppard
Padded and roped shoulders, closed quarters -- these elements seem to be part of what makes British British. Again, I might be wrong.
 

PekingRoadHK

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This is my suit made by a Baotou a few years ago, I am happy about it, and good value. It's not the style, it's the fitting on my body. This is perfect for ordinary daily work life.

VBC1.JPG
 
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Warrant_Buffet

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I don’t see anything English about that jacket.
I perceive that you, sir, are a well-traveled man and know how to distinguish nuances of tailoring styles. Would you say that attempting to have a regional style imitated (copying Neapolitan in HK, for example) is an ill-informed move?

Or, from perhaps a more philosophical perspective: what constitutes a tailoring style of a certain part of the world (or can it even be defined at all?)?
 

PekingRoadHK

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This post is about leather jacket baotou tailors

Baotou are not fashion designers

Baotou take orders from buyers world-wide, e.g. fashion designers, global brands, airlines, beauty pageants, TV movies, etc. Baotou workshops are not retailers of fashion brands. They don't display their products online and offline as professional as dept stores or tailor shops. Baotou are skillful workers in the workshops, they never read fashion magazine, they don't know fashion market at all. Baotou follow orders to make garments. You don't want they add their (uncle) fashion sense to your garment.

leather jacket baotou tailors
Unlike suit, leather jacket has no British cut, Italian cut, US cut, HK cut, or China cut. The cutting and fitting is depending on the maker. There is no Shanghai workmanship, Italian workmanship, US workmanship. We expect well fine fitting and good workmanship for a tailor made leather jacket.

Making leather jackets require different skill set and equipments. There are 4 top famous leather jacket baotou in HK. On top of this 4, there is an uncle tailor who has been making female garment, he got equipments to make leather jackets, he has all the skill set, he is famous to make all the details outstanding, he charges highest (more than top 4 leather jacket baotou). Consumers with special needs are making orders to this uncle tailor.

4 top + 1 uncle = 5 top most famous leather jacket tailors in HK. The youngest one is a husband and wife tailors, they got 4 decades of experiences. The other 4 got over 5 decades of experiences. Only 2 of this 5 are working in Mirador. The others are working outside Mirador. 1 is working at home, he is retired, he is taking orders for his spare time. I don't like the husband wife tailors, pricing is unclear (floating price???). Global brands have been making orders to this 4 top. This uncle is usually for customers with special needs.

A leather jacket sifu told me, sifu from mainland China are also good. Some have worked in brand names in Italy, and they brought their skills to China factories, they export to the world. A few top China factories are good enough to compete with HK leather jacket sifu.

This is real crocodile leather. Don't try this until you are ready. I will explain why.
We will make big mistakes with wrong expectations, #1,771 explained other wrong expectations.
crocodile-leather-%E9%B1%B7%E9%AD%9A%E7%9A%AE2-jpg.1232404

crocodile-leather-%E9%B1%B7%E9%AD%9A%E7%9A%AE3-jpg.1270914


Don't try this until you are ready. I found this online, I have no idea where it was made, Italy UK or US made? I got a few leather jackets already, I know I am not ready for this:
leather-jacket3-jpg.1270908
 
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PekingRoadHK

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This post is about leather jacket baotou tailors

Suits and shirts are pretty standard. Leather jacket has more to look at.

Expectation from baotou tailors can't be the same from brand names
We go to dept stores and brand name shops, we expect everything ready. Brand name garments are beautifully made. Lapel size, pocket size, zipper length, buttons size, overall length and size, everything is in perfect proportion. What’s behind? They got fashion designers (clothing managers) to take care of all details. Jackets and garments are well made in factories according to the orders from the fashion designers (clothing managers). Baotou is the controller of factory, and they don’t know fashion.

Position: fashion designer for brand names, clothing manager for corporations.
They know fashion and production.

Sartorial world?
If you are expecting to enter the sartorial world by going to baotou without suitable knowledge and experiences, it won’t work! You need to act as your own fashion designers (clothing manager), this is for self-serve only. A right product for you does not mean sartorial world! For me, sartorial world does not mean the right products and style for me. I have my own style, I have no interest in the sartorial world, and I know I got the right products!

I asked baotou tailors how they manage the fitting, proportion, and details for all the clothing for overseas TV movie, global brands, and beauty pageants. They make garments, not limited to leather jackets. They say baotou don’t go overseas for fitting, Hollywoond movie stars don’t come HK for fitting. There is no fitting. Baotou tailors manage the production according to fashion designers (clothing managers). Beautiful or ugly? Fashion or sartorial world? Baotou tailors will never know, this is the job of fashion designers (clothing managers).

This is my experience:
I want to make a Tom Ford leather jacket. If not TF, make Cromford, Saint Laurent, Schott. At the end, it is a well fine fitted leather jacket. It is not a brand name. It could be better.

Biker is very common, and I ordered one. I guess the original design is cowhide, I bought goat leather. Leather character is different, the result is different. I don't expect to make everything the same. This is a reference of a famous biker.
biker.jpg


I am sure all experienced baotou must have made over 1,000 bikers. It can’t be wrong. This is the fitting in a Fanling workshop in HK, length and size is right, the back is clean. For the accessories, the proportion is bad. 7inch zipper is too long, too big pocket, the position of zipper is wrong. Baotou said everyone has different opinions on the proportion. The accessories are the little things that matter. I felt bad with the proportion of these accessories.

biker-jacket-jpg.1811131


I need long time to look at different photos online and act as my own fashion designer (clothing manager). I took the ruler to make measurements on the fitting cloths. I told baotou the right proportion, he made corrections on the fitting cloths.

goat leather (light weight). This is the end result, it looks better on my body:
goat-skin-biker1-jpg.1855332


The above biker is an perfect example. If I rely everything on the baotou, proportion is bad, the end product is bad. In this situation, I act as my own clothing manager to take control of all details and the proportion. It becomes a good product for me. This is a kind of self serve, I am on my own to tell baotou how to solve the problem.

Crocodile leather jacket from big brand names could cost more than a new Lexus. A small mistake of proportion (e.g. zipper leather length) could turn things bad. The above example explained. The risk for expensive leathers, e.g. #1,782, is too expensive. The replacement of real crocodile leather is printed leathers. Printed leathers can be cowhide or sheep skins, and the feel is totally different. We can order expensive leathers and make beautiful leather jackets. Picking the right leather is very important. For this kind of outstanding leathers, I say what for?

I found this online, I have no idea where it was made. Is this real snake skin or printed leathers? I guess real snake skin:
snake skin or printed leather.jpg


This is real snake skin:
python-leather-%E8%9F%92%E8%9B%87%E7%9A%AE-jpg.1105356

This is another case, the same baotou made everything perfect by looking at the photos I gave him. Lapel size, pocket size, zipper length, buttons size, overall length and size, everything is in perfect proportion. In this case, I act as my own fashion designer (clothing manager), I couldn't find any problem. The baotou made everything right.
leather-safari-jacket-fitting1-jpg.1577204


suede leather (not easy to clean) .
This is the end result, it looks better on my body:
italian-lamb-suede-safari-jacket-jpg.1858702


most common leathers to make leather jackets:
cowhide (durable), sheep skin (light weight), lamb skin (light weight), suede leather (not easy to clean).
 
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PekingRoadHK

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This post is about fabrics and expectations

My blog has explained the comparison of British fabrics and Italian fabrics. They have different characters for different needs. We pick the right fabrics for our needs. Many consumers like me are usually interested in suits for ordinary daily work life, this is our expectation for suits. We do not want too much over, and we do not want sartorial world or hot gossip party things.

This is basic Loro Piana (260gr) I purchased from a HK local fabric shop a few years ago. After I tried a few suits, I knew Zegna and LP fabrics are not suitable for me. The character of this 2 brands are high grade, soft, good hand feel, both are good for sartorial world and hot gossip party things. The bad side is they are not durable and they don’t stand very well. For the jacket and overcoat fabrics, they are better, because they are over 350gr, they stand better than 260gr.

Loro Piana..jpg


I talked to a baotou before, he was working as a in-house tailor for a bespoke tailor shop in IFC. He told me he sometime cuts high-grade Zegna and LP fabrics, the shop sells this kind of the suit for HK$100k up. If I want this kind of Italian suit of sartorial world, I can go get the fabrics, he can make me the suits for Mirador price. I said No, because I don’t want Zegna and LP fabrics. He agreed, high-grade Zegna and LP are not suitable for daily work life. He is another experienced baotou who can make Italian cut.

British fabrics are good for ordinary daily work life. Italian fabrics like VBC and Drago are ok. Scabal is a British brand, they got made in England and made in Italy, both are ok.

2 examples:

This is Dugdale Bros. NFW (around 270gr), nothing fancy, the fabric stands very well, good for ordinary daily work life.

nfw-1-jpg.1842002


This is Scabal New deluxe (around 260gr), made in Italy, a little feel of Zegna, but not too soft. Nothing too fancy, it’s ok for ordinary daily work life.

scabal1-jpg.1855328
 
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PekingRoadHK

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This post is about picking the right leathers

most common leathers to make leather jackets:
cowhide (durable), sheep skin (light weight), lamb skin (light weight), suede leather (not easy to clean).

Different leather characters will turn to different feels!

This is another type of biker. Horsehide (tougher) and Cowhide can make this one:
Buco J24.jpg


Picking the right leather is the first thing, it's a part of selecting the style. I asked a baotou tailor to make a leather jacket for my family member a few years ago, she likes lamb skin for better comfort. To make a leather overcoat like this for my family member, I need to pick a kind of leather with comfort feel:

AnneHathaway.MichaelKors.jpg


crocodile leather is too much:
crocodile-leather-%E9%B1%B7%E9%AD%9A%E7%9A%AE5-jpg.1270915


cowhide is not for comfort feel:
crocodileprintleather5-jpg.1270918


lamb skin can do the job:
lambskin-leather1-jpg.1290623
 
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