The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

[dukenukem4ever]

This is my new suit, Scabal Capri, Italian cut:

Nice! Which sifu???

 

[PekingRoadHK]

@dukenukem4ever

#1335 is work of Wong SY sifu.

 

[Leon1031]

Good!

@dukenukem4ever

#1335 is work of Wong SY sifu.

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

my new 3pcs suit, British fabric, British cut.

Hey just wondering, is it just the pic / the way the jacket was put on the mannequin or was the left sleeve attached slightly more backward than the right? It doesn't seem as apparent for your Scabal one

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

This is my new suit, Scabal Capri, Italian cut:

That's bold. Like it when people don't just ask to have their every suit to have the same, aggressive waist suppression.

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

Think I'd share photos of my first setting with a young, off-Mirador tailor. From what I've learned, it's fully handmade in HK.

I snatched the vintage fabric from a beat-up store in Sham Shui Po -- <100HKD aka <14.5USD for the whole piece.

The tailor was patient enough to discuss the options I was going with (Nutter-esque lapels, roped shoulders etc.) and whether or not they'd suit my needs. It was a nice experience, all in all.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Think I'd share photos of my first setting with a young, off-Mirador tailor. From what I've learned, it's fully handmade in HK.

I snatched the vintage fabric from a beat-up store in Sham Shui Po -- <100HKD aka <14.5USD for the whole piece.

The tailor was patient enough to discuss the options I was going with (Nutter-esque lapels, roped shoulders etc.) and whether or not they'd suit my needs. It was a nice experience, all in all.

nice, would you be willing to dm me the details of this off-mirador tailor?

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

nice, would you be willing to dm me the details of this off-mirador tailor?

Absolutely. How about you DM me since I can't do that for some reason

 

[Leon1031]

Think I'd share photos of my first setting with a young, off-Mirador tailor. From what I've learned, it's fully handmade in HK.

I snatched the vintage fabric from a beat-up store in Sham Shui Po -- <100HKD aka <14.5USD for the whole piece.

The tailor was patient enough to discuss the options I was going with (Nutter-esque lapels, roped shoulders etc.) and whether or not they'd suit my needs. It was a nice experience, all in all.

Which tailor u use in Mirador?thx

 

[PekingRoadHK]

Hey just wondering, is it just the pic / the way the jacket was put on the mannequin or was the left sleeve attached slightly more backward than the right? It doesn't seem as apparent for your Scabal one

my right and left shoulders are not perfectly equal, not sure if this is uneven shoulders.
my arm length of both side is 2mm different. I don't know the tailor term for what this is called.

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

my right and left shoulders are not perfectly equal, not sure if this is uneven shoulders.
my arm length of both side is 2mm different. I don't know the tailor term for what this is called.

Think we can all relate to that. Cutters would have a lot to say about that and scoliosis.
A friend of mine who happens to be a 2nd-generation tailor told me that despite such conditions, sifus usually not prefer making a suit look asymmetrical in any way. One esthetic consideration, after all, is how the imperfections of one's body can be concealed and not accentuated.
As far as your suit, I'd imagine both sleeves can be attached at pretty much the same position given your arms are nearly the same in length.

 

[PekingRoadHK]

People asked me, and this is my answer:

Ng sifu, British cut Vs Wong SY sifu, Italian cut

I personally prefer Ng sifu cutting and skills that better suits my taste and needs.

Workmanship: about same grade of workmanship
canvas workmanship, shoulder workmanship, milanese buttonhole, etc.
Wong SY sifu products have more detail finishing.

Ng sifu takes care of measurement, cutting, fitting, and alterations in HK. He controls his own Shenzhen workshop and Shenzhen labour.
Wong SY sifu takes care of measurement and fitting in HK. He outsources the production to a high grade Shenzhen factory. This factory takes care of cutting and major alterations.
I am satisfied with both sifu workmanship. Both sifu offer excellent dollar value and good workmanship.

The big difference is the cutting and the shoulders.
Ng sifu offers shirt shoulders and Wong sifu offers neapolitan shoulders.
We pick whatever we prefer.

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

People asked me, and this is my answer:

Ng sifu, British cut Vs Wong SY sifu, Italian cut

I personally prefer Ng sifu cutting and skills that better suits my taste and needs.

Workmanship: about same grade of workmanship
canvas workmanship, shoulder workmanship, milanese buttonhole, etc.
Wong SY sifu products have more detail finishing.

Ng sifu takes care of measurement, cutting, fitting, and alterations in HK. He controls his own Shenzhen workshop and Shenzhen labour.
Wong SY sifu takes care of measurement and fitting in HK. He outsources the production to a high grade Shenzhen factory. This factory takes care of cutting and major alterations.
I am satisfied with both sifu workmanship. Both sifu offer excellent dollar value and good workmanship.

The big difference is the cutting and the shoulders.
Ng sifu offers shirt shoulders and Wong sifu offers neapolitan shoulders.
We pick whatever we prefer.

Point taken indeed.

I'm actually having a first fitting with Ng this week. We talked about you briefly not long ago and he can't thank you enough for being a huge help to the sifus at Mirador.

 

[PekingRoadHK]

Point taken indeed.

I'm actually having a first fitting with Ng this week. We talked about you briefly not long ago and he can't thank you enough for being a huge help to the sifus at Mirador.

Mirador Mansion and Chungking Mansion were like modern twin towers in the 60's, built in the 50's. Mirador Mansion became the center of tailors in the 70's and was like a 24hours tailor operating building (garment factory) until early 80's. I am a HK guy, didn't notice this building until a few years ago.

Many sifu and consumers are now very happy, we all can deal directly.

 

[Warrant_Buffet]

Pics of a long-awaited fitting with the Ng detailing what were checked / had to be altered:
1. The collar gap. This, Ng explained, was the result of attaching a reusable collar for fitting purposes (think Ng calls it “大眾領襆” (roughly translated as “collar for [all clients during fittings]”)). How do I know if the collar of the end product would fare though?
2. Fabric did not “rest on” the shoulder despite having been cut to the measurement. This goes to show why you would not want to bring your suit home without getting at least one fitting done: for the same measurements, body shapes vary. I believe the way your trapezius is shaped affects how much the shoulder needs to be taken in (斬膊) or pressed / shaped.
3. Pattern mismatch at hindseam (lines not joining)
(Not shown in this pic: Insufficient back length causing front to be pulled upwards (標高；balancing issue); sleeve possibly not curved enough)
a. Another angle of the collar
b. Matching sleeve-chest pattern
c. ~Patterns forms a horizontal straight line at the waistline, a sign of proper balance
d. Button stance
e. Pattern mismatch at front dart
f. Sleeves to be made shorter by ⅜ of a inch IIRC. Sifus tend to cut the sleeves longer for fittings
g. Jacket front ends at my thumb's second joint

I hope I've kept my explanations as accurate and clear as I intended them to be. Let me know your thoughts!