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The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

PekingRoadHK

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A few BaoTou told me about their production time for a 2pcs suit (with 1 fitting in HK):

1) Before the coronavirus, travelling between HK and Shenzhen was too easy. 2 days production time was possible, they might charge something extra for fast delivery, but they don't recommend this kind of rush work.
2) Between 4 days and a week is possible, the workmanship is ok, but don't expect too much.
3) Between 2 weeks and 3 weeks is quite normal for ordinary days.
4) Between 4 weeks and 8 weeks is sometime offered by old HK for better workmanship (depending on workload).
5) Longer than 8 weeks, you check with uncles if they are ok.

Make sure you tell your BaoTou if you demand a week delivery when you place an order, they will arrange the priority work. Other than fast delivery, ask your BaoTou when he will complete the work for your suits of good workmanship. High low season is different.
 
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dygital

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Went to see Ng today and picked up my uncanvased unstructured jacket! I love the jacket since it's cut quite loose, and a bit long which is exactly how I wanted it. Inside seems to be quite neat and from a preliminary feel, I don't believe there is any fusing or interlining (even behind the collar/lapel area). The only piece of lining is just above the shoulder. Ng jokingly told me to post about it more online and get him more customers for all the trouble I caused, but did mention to expect a very very long lead time for something unusual like this (Mine took about 8-9 weeks). Since I saw pekingroad's post above, I also asked him the timeline for a normal suit/jacket and he mentioned about 2 weeks if you were really rushed but better to have about 3 weeks to play with. Not the best of photos but I was too lazy to take more. Fabric is some Moygashel Linen (Ulster?) from Samuel Chen. I believe it is 330 grams. Ng charged my $2300 + 100 for uncanvased but I think this is lower than his normal price since I've been a repeat customer for a few times and also referred many friends. He might not be willing to do an uncanvased jacket as a first piece though.

IMG_5597.jpg

IMG_3441.JPG
 

PekingRoadHK

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@dygital

It all depends on the Shenzhen production workshops. 2/3 weeks is very normal for average consumers for most BaoTou. For high demanding consumers with special requests, production time takes longer. Now is not the best time for high demanding consumers with special requests, BaoTou cannot go Shenzhen workshops to monitor all production process in person.

Ng has a very small team, it takes longer time than average. This is the low season, you got your suit of good workmanship in 2 months. You might see 3 months in high season for a suit of good workmanship.

Not limited to Ng, there are good BaoTou tailors in and out of Mirador. They all have different size of production teams and workload is depending on seasons. Most of them take less time than Ng. We have to check the production time when we place an order.

There are uncles (age over 80) making suits all by themself in HK, they have very good skill, and they take even longer time.
 
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hippotamus

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Went to see Ng today and picked up my uncanvased unstructured jacket! I love the jacket since it's cut quite loose, and a bit long which is exactly how I wanted it. Inside seems to be quite neat and from a preliminary feel, I don't believe there is any fusing or interlining (even behind the collar/lapel area). The only piece of lining is just above the shoulder. Ng jokingly told me to post about it more online and get him more customers for all the trouble I caused, but did mention to expect a very very long lead time for something unusual like this (Mine took about 8-9 weeks). Since I saw pekingroad's post above, I also asked him the timeline for a normal suit/jacket and he mentioned about 2 weeks if you were really rushed but better to have about 3 weeks to play with. Not the best of photos but I was too lazy to take more. Fabric is some Moygashel Linen (Ulster?) from Samuel Chen. I believe it is 330 grams. Ng charged my $2300 + 100 for uncanvased but I think this is lower than his normal price since I've been a repeat customer for a few times and also referred many friends. He might not be willing to do an uncanvased jacket as a first piece though.

View attachment 1418692
View attachment 1418693

Beautiful stuff, great job Master Ng !
 

thesupremegrape

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Anyone heard of empire suit fabrics (an online UK-based store). They seem quite cheap, but I don't know how reliable they are
 

dygital

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Hey @PekingRoadHK , do you have any experience commissioning a baotou to do something outside a suit? I know you've had some leather pieces made before but I wanted to get something made like this:

I'm not too sure which sifu to find, or even how to get across what it is that I want to get made.. Is there a chinese word for this kind of thing?
 

PekingRoadHK

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Hey @PekingRoadHK , do you have any experience commissioning a baotou to do something outside a suit? I know you've had some leather pieces made before but I wanted to get something made like this:

I'm not too sure which sifu to find, or even how to get across what it is that I want to get made.. Is there a chinese word for this kind of thing?

This is my jacket, #500 is an example. This is a fitting sample, and you can pick cotton or linen instead of leather. look at the details #500 #501 #502:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...nd-fabric-shops-for-cmt-thread.542082/page-34

km-fitting1-jpg.1158714


km4-jpg.1158723


my idea originally comes from:
Gieves+bespoke+jacket.jpg
 
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hippotamus

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Hey @PekingRoadHK , do you have any experience commissioning a baotou to do something outside a suit? I know you've had some leather pieces made before but I wanted to get something made like this:

I'm not too sure which sifu to find, or even how to get across what it is that I want to get made.. Is there a chinese word for this kind of thing?

Sure Linda of Kam Ma Leather can work on that, piece of cake of them.

For the price offering in Armoury, I would go with them if they can do some minor adjustment.

Then again if you want different style base on the Armoury design then Linda can help for sure.
 

dygital

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@PekingRoadHK @hippotamus
Would you guys have any recommendations for getting it done in cotton or linen? I don't want to get it in leather so I'm sure Kam Ma would be out...

Would Ng Sifu be able to manage something like this? Or is there a different subset of baotous for items like item I linked above?
 

hippotamus

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Kam Ma should be able to work on both cotton or linen, but please check on that.

If you already managed to get Master Ng to make you an unstructured jacket, I am sure you have good relationship with him already ? Go ask them directly, he wont force to make anything he is not willing to.

I never see the piece in person, but looks like a looser shirt with bunch of pockets? Maybe ask Master Ng to refer a shirtmaker.
 

dygital

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Kam Ma should be able to work on both cotton or linen, but please check on that.

If you already managed to get Master Ng to make you an unstructured jacket, I am sure you have good relationship with him already ? Go ask them directly, he wont force to make anything he is not willing to.

I never see the piece in person, but looks like a looser shirt with bunch of pockets? Maybe ask Master Ng to refer a shirtmaker.
I just worry that there is quite a gap between taking the canvas out of a jacket, and shifting to making something completely different. I asked Wong MH about it, and he said shirtmakers don't really do this type of work. I believe Ascot Chang makes the 3PB for the Armoury but I guess it isn't their shirtmakers then.

I will give Kam Ma a shout to see if this is something they could do, but otherwise I may just have to buy one at the armoury.
 

PekingRoadHK

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@dygital

Different baotou have different expertise, that's why there are suit baotou, shirt baotou, jacket baotou, etc. They are experts in their areas only.

You ask suit baotou and shirt baotou to make the jacket for you, they might take your order, but the outcome might not be as good as from a jacket baotou. My blog shows 4 best well known leather jacket baotou in HK, they all can make jacket for you with cotton and linen. Their price explained their positions. Kam Ma always takes that kind of order from brand names!
 
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dygital

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Shot Kam Ma a message on ig but haven't heard back. I guess I will see if I can head over this weekend in person. On another note, is there any Baotou that makes polo shirts @PekingRoadHK ?
 

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