The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

[Royal_Airforce]

Went in to Ng sifu's workshop to have an idea of his cutting style as well as workmanship last month. Here are some findings:

1. Cutting: A good mix of British and Italian cuts

Ng sifu, who was referenced to deliver British cut well according to @PekingRoadHK 's blog, turns out to be also popular for those who favour an Italian cut (though I would say the quarters are cut too open and too straight in the navy sport coat at the top, where it ought to be open and rounded as much as Liverano gets). He said he would try to accommodate the client's favoured cut as instructed.

2. Workmanship: Full canvas with hand-padded lapels, albeit not the finest execution; Hand finishing at par.

Married with the Italian cut was what looks to be quite soft structure, manifested from the lightness of shoulder padding. I haven't had a chance to examine a few work-in-progress, and cannot comment on the internal construction like canvas.

I did, however, noticed hand padding of under the lapels at ~1.5 to 2 inch density. In comparison, WW Chan's standard is I believe 1 inch or less. Curious enough, I observed some rumples along the line where the lapel meets the chest (I took a photo but then deleted it), and was suspecting whether that was due to a fusable tape glued (and then maybe stitched) there, a la R. Jeffery Diduch's finding on a BnTailor suit in his blog Tutto Fatto a Mano --> Probably someone with experience in commissioning something and who has seen his work-in-progress (say, @PekingRoadHK ) can comment on?

Otherwise, the functional handwork (e.g. hand-attached sleeves, hand-attached linings, 'sword-shape' inner pocket surrounded by fabric as opposed to lining) and non-functional ones (e.g. covered seams and pick stitching) are what you'd expect from a decent Mirador baotou.

3. Miscellaneous: Opening up for retail orders; Impact from virus not ascertained

Ng sifu expressed that he is now welcoming retail orders in low seasons (typically after Chinese New Year). When I visited him, the outbreak of the Novel Coronavirus was still regionally limited, so its impact wasn't really shown then.

He charges HKD 2,800 CMT for a suit, and an uplift for HKD 1,000 for dinner suit.

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

 

[dukenukem4ever]

Went in to Ng sifu's workshop to have an idea of his cutting style as well as workmanship last month. Here are some findings:

1. Cutting: A good mix of British and Italian cuts View attachment 1343116
View attachment 1343120
View attachment 1343117

Ng sifu, who was referenced to deliver British cut well according to @PekingRoadHK 's blog, turns out to be also popular for those who favour an Italian cut (though I would say the quarters are cut too open and too straight in the navy sport coat at the top, where it ought to be open and rounded as much as Liverano gets). He said he would try to accommodate the client's favoured cut as instructed.

2. Workmanship: Full canvas with hand-padded lapels, albeit not the finest execution; Hand finishing at par.

Married with the Italian cut was what looks to be quite soft structure, manifested from the lightness of shoulder padding. I haven't had a chance to examine a few work-in-progress, and cannot comment on the internal construction like canvas.

I did, however, noticed hand padding of under the lapels at ~1.5 to 2 inch density. In comparison, WW Chan's standard is I believe 1 inch or less. Curious enough, I observed some rumples along the line where the lapel meets the chest (I took a photo but then deleted it), and was suspecting whether that was due to a fusable tape glued (and then maybe stitched) there, a la R. Jeffery Diduch's finding on a BnTailor suit in his blog Tutto Fatto a Mano --> Probably someone with experience in commissioning something and who has seen his work-in-progress (say, @PekingRoadHK ) can comment on?

Otherwise, the functional handwork (e.g. hand-attached sleeves, hand-attached linings, 'sword-shape' inner pocket surrounded by fabric as opposed to lining) and non-functional ones (e.g. covered seams and pick stitching) are what you'd expect from a decent Mirador baotou.

3. Miscellaneous: Opening up for retail orders; Impact from virus not ascertained

Ng sifu expressed that he is now welcoming retail orders in low seasons (typically after Chinese New Year). When I visited him, the outbreak of the Novel Coronavirus was still regionally limited, so its impact wasn't really shown then.

He charges HKD 2,800 CMT for a suit, and an uplift for HKD 1,000 for dinner suit.

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

Nice overview!

I called Ng Sifu a couple of weeks back, he was "stuck" in Shenzhen and didn't want to come down to HK due to the mandatory 2 week quarantine (he also lives in SZ not HK). Wonder if he's making daily trips back up and down now; has the mandatory 2 week quarantine been lifted?

 

[PekingRoadHK]

@Royal_Airforce

Ng is one of the best, there are a few more good Baotou mentioned in my blog. They all come from best well-known bespoke in HK. I call them "old HK". They don’t want to disclose the brands in public.

Jim sifu: the canvas stands better. everything is fine, except the inner lining fabric of trousers. We have to order the color of the inner lining fabric be the same as the trousers. Otherwise, he will pick pink color or flower pattern, this is his personal taste.

Kevin Chan sifu: might have even better hand work on 珠邊 in his Shenzhen workshop.

 

[thesupremegrape]

@Royal_Airforce

Ng is one of the best, there are a few more good Baotou mentioned in my blog. They all come from best well-known bespoke in HK. I call them "old HK". They don’t want to disclose the brands in public.

Jim sifu: the canvas stands better. everything is fine, except the inner lining of trousers. We have to order the color of the inner lining be the same as the trousers. Otherwise, he will pick pink color or flower pattern, this is his personal taste.

Chan sifu: might have even better hand works on 珠邊 in his Shenzhen workshop.

Is there an English version of your blog?

 

[thesupremegrape]

Went in to Ng sifu's workshop to have an idea of his cutting style as well as workmanship last month. Here are some findings:

1. Cutting: A good mix of British and Italian cuts View attachment 1343116
View attachment 1343120
View attachment 1343117

Ng sifu, who was referenced to deliver British cut well according to @PekingRoadHK 's blog, turns out to be also popular for those who favour an Italian cut (though I would say the quarters are cut too open and too straight in the navy sport coat at the top, where it ought to be open and rounded as much as Liverano gets). He said he would try to accommodate the client's favoured cut as instructed.

2. Workmanship: Full canvas with hand-padded lapels, albeit not the finest execution; Hand finishing at par.

Married with the Italian cut was what looks to be quite soft structure, manifested from the lightness of shoulder padding. I haven't had a chance to examine a few work-in-progress, and cannot comment on the internal construction like canvas.

I did, however, noticed hand padding of under the lapels at ~1.5 to 2 inch density. In comparison, WW Chan's standard is I believe 1 inch or less. Curious enough, I observed some rumples along the line where the lapel meets the chest (I took a photo but then deleted it), and was suspecting whether that was due to a fusable tape glued (and then maybe stitched) there, a la R. Jeffery Diduch's finding on a BnTailor suit in his blog Tutto Fatto a Mano --> Probably someone with experience in commissioning something and who has seen his work-in-progress (say, @PekingRoadHK ) can comment on?

Otherwise, the functional handwork (e.g. hand-attached sleeves, hand-attached linings, 'sword-shape' inner pocket surrounded by fabric as opposed to lining) and non-functional ones (e.g. covered seams and pick stitching) are what you'd expect from a decent Mirador baotou.

3. Miscellaneous: Opening up for retail orders; Impact from virus not ascertained

Ng sifu expressed that he is now welcoming retail orders in low seasons (typically after Chinese New Year). When I visited him, the outbreak of the Novel Coronavirus was still regionally limited, so its impact wasn't really shown then.

He charges HKD 2,800 CMT for a suit, and an uplift for HKD 1,000 for dinner suit.

Cheers,
Royal_Airforce

Nice overview. What did you think of the fit? Overall, are you likely to return to Ng sifu, or will you try another sifu?

 

[Royal_Airforce]

@dukenukem4ever I think the 2 week quarantine is still in force

@PekingRoadHK Have you inspected the internal construction of Ng? Looks like there is a rumpled line at the edge of lapel meeting the body, likely caused by a fusable tape glued there (as opposed to a fully hand-padded lapel and chest). Have you ever experienced such things in your commissions / that of others?

@thesupremegrape I didn’t commission anything so can’t really comment - it was just an initial visit to sort of do my R&D haha.
On a separate note, the blog of PekingRoadHK is bilingual for most parts, and you can search them out by typing ‘CMT suit hk’ as He says in his bio hahhaha:

http://suitcmt.blogspot.hk/

http://cmtsuithk.blogspot.hk/

http://suit-cmt-hk.blogspot.hk/

https://cmtsuit.wordpress.com/

 

[Nara_Deer]

Anyone tried Ku Sifu in 3/F? There are two Ku Sifus in Mirador and I am referring to the one who charges less. He is asking 2.2HKD for Full Canvass, and seemed to be making the clothes in HK.

 

[Royal_Airforce]

BTW I got into contact with Wong sifu the trouser maker (dubbed Hong Kong Ambrosi) (not to be confused with Wong Man Hoi the shirt maker).

His workshop is on 16/F Mirador, but travels between Hong Kong and Zhuhai. He charges HKD 900 for trousers CMT. He also makes suits, for HKD 4,100.

For trousers he can make in Hong Kong without turning to his factory in Shenzhen, thereby less impacted by the 2-week quarantine period mandated for cross-border travellers. Those who are in a hurry and want quality trousers may contact him. (Disclaimer: I haven't commissioned anything with him - I just knew him last week from @shirtingfantasy )

 

[PekingRoadHK]

@thesupremegrape
My blog is written in both Chinese and English. Most Baotou tailors in Mirador Mansion don't speak English, they are old folks, and well experienced tailors in HK. If you are a local consumer without Cantonese skill, you need to bring your own Cantonese translator.

@Royal_Airforce
#16 of this thread is Ng sifu work, it's after fitting and before his Shenzhen team works on the canvas. You can see the canvas.
#17 of this thread is Jim sifu work, that's his standard cutting. The canvas he made always stands better.

To response to your #751 review, I can say:
1) Ng is better for British cutting than Italian cutting.
2) Jim's Shenzhen team has better work on canvas, hand padding under the lapels has little more density.

You can update me if I have missed any contact of sifu (good deal, inside and outside Mirador) and fabric shops. I will verify them and put more choice in my blog for hk consumers. which one in 16/F?

@Nara_Deer
3/F Ko sifu offers $2.2k for full canvas, cutting in his HK workshop, made in Shenzhen. good price good value, nothing impressed. just the basic.

 

[Royal_Airforce]

@thesupremegrape
My blog is written in both Chinese and English. Most Baotou tailors in Mirador Mansion don't speak English, they are old folks, and well experienced tailors in HK. If you are a local consumer without Cantonese skill, you need to bring your own Cantonese translator.

@Royal_Airforce
#16 of this thread is Ng sifu work, it's after fitting and before his Shenzhen team works on the canvas. You can see the canvas.
#17 of this thread is Jim sifu work, that's his standard cutting. The canvas he made always stands better.

To response to your #751 review, I can say:
1) Ng is better for British cutting than Italian cutting.
2) Jim's Shenzhen team has better work on canvas, hand padding under the lapels has little more density.

You can update me if I have missed any contact of sifu (good deal, inside and outside Mirador) and fabric shops. I will verify them and put more choice in my blog for hk consumers. which one in 16/F?

@Nara_Deer
3/F Ko sifu offers $2.2k for full canvas, cutting in his HK workshop, made in Shenzhen. good price good value, nothing impressed. just the basic.

Thanks for the navigation! I may supplement that the phone number of Mao sifu in you blog is located in room E2 of 6/F Mirador. (Edited to remove Mao’s private phone number)

Paid Mao sifu a visit today to understand more on his workmanship. I saw hand-padding of lapels at a density of ~1 inch or a bit less, hand-padding of chest at ~ 1.5 inch, included in his HKD 3,800 full canvas CMT offering, delivered in his Shenzhen factory.

I was able to sample a soft horsehair canvas (which may be a Chinese canvas) that they use for soft constructions, which was of decent ‘bounciness’. And his colleague (who said he used to work for Ascot Chang’s workshop in Sha Tau Kok in Shenzhen) explained to me that, they wouldn’t mind clients bringing in imported canvasses, but with the development in quality of ‘made in China’, the difference wouldn’t be that big as it once was (when the boss of Ascot back then, presumably Tony or one generation older, would give them Italian canvas they imported to make suits). Copying @dukenukem4ever FYR.

They said they would still pre-wash the fabric, and they would warm-wash the canvas, let it cool down, and use machine to roll-press it before making. Which i believe are (declining?) traditional techniques employed by Shanghai workmanship makers as covered in the blog of PekingRoadHK’s blog.

Also, i asked if a fusable tape will be used at the edge where the lapel meets the chest, and they said yes it would always be used. Interesting - has anyone seen this on your jacket / that of others?

Just to add re: production schedule, they can still mail out the cut fabrics to their factory in mainland / the home of their makers despite the virus / incumbent lockdown of borders.

 

[PekingRoadHK]

@Royal_Airforce

Mao will register a new number later. That one is his private number for the moment.

His Shenzhen workshop team offers different prices for different grades of full canvas. I have checked his products. His $3k grade is good enough, a decent product from Mirador. His $3.8k grade is even better, I couldn't believe it's made in Shenzhen, it's outstanding, Italian cut, no British cut. You have explained how they work on their $3.8k product. His $2k product is a junk. ie. different grade of labour skill, different grade of canvas, for 3 different prices.

I think China canvas is good enough, it is improving. I won't spend on imported canvas.

There are a few more BaoTou mentioned in my blog, they were ex-tailors for well known bespoke in HK. They don't want to disclose the brand names in public. They can tell you when you talk to them, but they prefer not to disclose this info to the public.

 

[dygital]

BTW I got into contact with Wong sifu the trouser maker (dubbed Hong Kong Ambrosi) (not to be confused with Wong Man Hoi the shirt maker).

His workshop is on 16/F Mirador, but travels between Hong Kong and Zhuhai. He charges HKD 900 for trousers CMT. He also makes suits, for HKD 4,100.

For trousers he can make in Hong Kong without turning to his factory in Shenzhen, thereby less impacted by the 2-week quarantine period mandated for cross-border travellers. Those who are in a hurry and want quality trousers may contact him. (Disclaimer: I haven't commissioned anything with him - I just knew him last week from @shirtingfantasy )

Did Wong the trouser maker get a new shop? Since I have always known him to work out of Nam Cheong. You sure you aren't getting Trouser wong confused with Shirtmaker wong who is on the 16th floor?

 

[thesupremegrape]

Is Shanghai workmanship considered to be the best?

Also when getting shirts made, will I also need to provide the fabric, just like the suit?

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Did Wong the trouser maker get a new shop? Since I have always known him to work out of Nam Cheong. You sure you aren't getting Trouser wong confused with Shirtmaker wong who is on the 16th floor?

Wong sifu the trouser maker (wechat: hsy******) said he is currently working from home, and would return to his workshop on 16/F Mirador when the epidemics are alleviated.

Pretty sure i haven’t confused the two Wongs Am interested in visiting both tho

 

[Royal_Airforce]

@Royal_Airforce

Mao will register a new number later. That one is his private number for the moment.

His Shenzhen workshop team offers different prices for different grades of full canvas. I have checked his products. His $3k grade is good enough, a decent product from Mirador. His $3.8k grade is even better, I couldn't believe it's made in Shenzhen, it's outstanding, Italian cut, no British cut. You have explained how they work on their $3.8k product. His $2k product is a junk. ie. different grade of labour skill, different grade of canvas, for 3 different prices.

I think China canvas is good enough, it is improving. I won't spend on imported canvas.

There are a few more BaoTou mentioned in my blog, they were ex-tailors for well known bespoke in HK. They don't want to disclose the brand names in public. They can tell you when you talk to them, but they prefer not to disclose this info to the public.

Thanks - removed his number for the time being. Also, if there’s anything i shouldn’t disclose here, happy for you to reach me.

Somehow Mao’s colleague said to me that their $3k products aren’t exactly full canvas as the canvas only extend to around the pockets.