The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

[dukenukem4ever]

I actually really like Giorgio Vallino, I think it's better quality than VBC and cheaper... harharhar....

 

[thesupremegrape]

Also, just to reiterate a question, do the sifu make bespoke or MTM. I know that the process is called CMT but do they start from scratch or start from a template?

 

[dukenukem4ever]

For the sifus I went to, I believe they are bespoke. They took measurements, then they do the chalk on the fabric and stuff. I started going when the protests started to get pretty wild so the sifus had more free time I guess to show me their work? Now with the coronavirus outbreak yeah they should be giving you VIP service. You can also ask the sifu himself whether it's from a block or whether it's a new template based on you.

 

[thesupremegrape]

Yup, started off with VBC and Giorgio Vallino. Once I found a sifu I liked went up higher. Although with Hung Sifu I stupidly started off with Loro Piana and regret it for all eternity.

Sorry for asking so many question, but do you think I should start off with half-canvas and keep the suit simple to save money while I'm assessing the sifu's style, or should I go full canvas with details to asses their skill?

 

[dukenukem4ever]

I think that's a good strategy to start off with half canvas. but to be frank though I went all in on full canvas for all the sifus... I've had bad experiences with half canvas where they only pad the chest and leave out the lapels (even if u let them know you want the lapels to have stitched canvas as well). again this is even after I stated I wanted the lapels to have canvassing too (and it just ... they just say damn you can't tell the difference right? so it's all good and I saved you money....) I just think it comes down to the factory / workshop they use be it in hk or Shenzhen. Half canvas, from my experience, I feel like there is no industry wide standard whereas full canvas is full you can't debate that. So that was my logic (wrong or not, I don't care) when approaching the sifus for my suits.

 

[thesupremegrape]

I think that's a good strategy to start off with half canvas. but to be frank though I went all in on full canvas for all the sifus... I've had bad experiences with half canvas where they only pad the chest and leave out the lapels (even if u let them know you want the lapels to have stitched canvas as well). again this is even after I stated I wanted the lapels to have canvassing too (and it just ... they just say damn you can't tell the difference right? so it's all good and I saved you money....) I just think it comes down to the factory / workshop they use be it in hk or Shenzhen. Half canvas, from my experience, I feel like there is no industry wide standard whereas full canvas is full you can't debate that. So that was my logic (wrong or not, I don't care) when approaching the sifus for my suits.

By the sounds of it, I agree, full canvas is the way to go! Out of curiosity Do you still wear the first suits that you don't like as much?

 

[dukenukem4ever]

I'll be honest, in most cases, if you can get a bespoke suit, chances are it's going to look darn good (better than MTM or OTR) on you unless the Sifu and his team royally f**ks it up. when you're out and about, you're not standing still hoping for people to stare and nitpick at every little detail about your suit (I'll admit sometimes I make little comments in my head about some others' suits when they're standing next to me ... heh... but that's just the critical eye of mine). you may know what's wrong with your suit, but doesn't mean others will. for instance I have some older suits that are "half canvas" and they're my beater suits. wear them to airport, wear them on flights, when rushing for high speed train, night out with buddies, whatever, because I don't care about them but I still feel like I wear them really well because it's confidence (and with right accessories like shoes, proper shirt, even watch). I Save my nicer suits for proper meetings and special occasions or when I just feel like it.

So my point is, yeah I still wear my suits, old or new, because at the end of the day while there may be some small imperfections or inconsistencies, overall, my employees / friends / people I meet aren't with me to stare at my suit.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

I will say that none of my suits even the objectively better ones are perfect and I accept that no suit can ever truly be perfect. Don't buy into the notion that a suit can be perfect. You see those suit websites like brioni/canali/kiton/zegna I mean, I can still pick out small things here with the models wearing them or just with the suit in general (some of these fashion houses are cutting jackets too short!! but that's their house style I guess) but that's also taking into account my preferences as well as industry norms for what a suit should be. anyway, like I said, no such thing as a pitch-perfect suit. always there will be some small things here and there that pop up after a full day's wearing (wearing a suit for a whole day in office, outside at lunch, taking trains/taxis vs just trying it on in a stationary position in front of a mirror at the Sifu's mirador workshop is VERY different...).

 

[Nara_Deer]

I actually really like Giorgio Vallino, I think it's better quality than VBC and cheaper... harharhar....

I have read in other places that GV is not authentically Italian. Do you know if it's true?

Also can you share the characteristics of this brand or recommend certain composition/weight?

I think that's a good strategy to start off with half canvas. but to be frank though I went all in on full canvas for all the sifus... I've had bad experiences with half canvas where they only pad the chest and leave out the lapels (even if u let them know you want the lapels to have stitched canvas as well). again this is even after I stated I wanted the lapels to have canvassing too (and it just ... they just say damn you can't tell the difference right? so it's all good and I saved you money....) I just think it comes down to the factory / workshop they use be it in hk or Shenzhen. Half canvas, from my experience, I feel like there is no industry wide standard whereas full canvas is full you can't debate that. So that was my logic (wrong or not, I don't care) when approaching the sifus for my suits.

Had similar experience. The sifu I comissioned explicitly told me that one of the differences of full canvas is that the lapels are canvassed too.

But I wonder, for menswear amateurs, how to know what the Sifu actually produced a fully canvassed suit after you paid for one? It seems not very easy to examine?

 

[dukenukem4ever]

I have read in other places that GV is not authentically Italian. Do you know if it's true?

Also can you share the characteristics of this brand or recommend certain composition/weight?


Had similar experience. The sifu I comissioned explicitly told me that one of the differences of full canvas is that the lapels are canvassed too.

But I wonder, for menswear amateurs, how to know what the Sifu actually produced a fully canvassed suit after you paid for one? It seems not very easy to examine?

When you do the basted fitting, you will see the canvassing in the lapels and chest down to the quarters.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

I have read in other places that GV is not authentically Italian. Do you know if it's true?

Also can you share the characteristics of this brand or recommend certain composition/weight?

I have read that somewhere too, and I think PekingRoad or someone else mentioned it's a HongKong based brand from Long Wear. I just went with their EXCEL line, it's a Super 130s fabric. Too damn cheap. IIRC Reda Super 130s was around ... 275 hkd per yard? Giorgio Vallino back then was cheaper than this i don't remember the exact price.

 

[shirtingfantasy]

I actually really like Giorgio Vallino, I think it's better quality than VBC and cheaper... harharhar....

iPhones are made in China, and wool weaving is not rocket science ?

 

[Nara_Deer]

For the sifus I went to, I believe they are bespoke. They took measurements, then they do the chalk on the fabric and stuff. I started going when the protests started to get pretty wild so the sifus had more free time I guess to show me their work? Now with the coronavirus outbreak yeah they should be giving you VIP service. You can also ask the sifu himself whether it's from a block or whether it's a new template based on you.

Is it true that lots of BaoTou are not able to take orders because of nCoV? I have some fabrics at home, called two sifus and they aren't working.

 

[dukenukem4ever]

iPhones are made in China, and wool weaving is not rocket science ?

View attachment 1339583 View attachment 1339584

Someone going through great lengths to hide the people behind the brand... heh.

 

[thesupremegrape]

Hi all, I had 2 more questions I was hoping to get answered:

1. Do I also need to purchase the lining fabric or will the sifu provide this?
2. Do the sifu also perform alterations on off the rack suits? If so, roughly what do they charge?