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The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

skh821

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Thanks Stanacle and dygital, will definitely make a visit in next week! It's ok if they do not sell the entire collections. I will just check if there is any fabric suit my need! Though i do like scabal fabric, I wont get another one if the price is not right.
 

skh821

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And I just went to Samuel Chen, had a quick look on its scabal collection. They got sample books, and fabrics are fairly priced. I will think about what to make and revisit for the purchase. Many thanks for your kind recommendation!
 

dukenukem4ever

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And I just went to Samuel Chen, had a quick look on its scabal collection. They got sample books, and fabrics are fairly priced. I will think about what to make and revisit for the purchase. Many thanks for your kind recommendation!
Do they have Londoner S140s?
 

Royal_Airforce

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F9A0EEF9-CB98-454E-9169-A86416B269E3.jpeg


So this is a sport coat I commissioned with SY Wong sifu. Tried his trousers, trust his delivery, like his style, so made then jump.

~10oz Scottish wool in gunclub. Wearable indoors or at night in HK summer time, though def on the hotter side of the spectrum. There’s a good blend of brown, beige, green and black, within a restrained colour palette on the colder side.

The fit I think is spot-on, and he made all the details right for a first-time jacket. 3-roll-2 with straight lapels, con-rollino shoulders, 3 patch pockets. Machine-stitching on lapel edges (which I felt better suit this slightly countrified fabric)

And he was willing to experiment on fit (albeit within a very small range): I did encourage him to drop extend the shoulders a tad wider, and he was willing to do so to the extent that he widened them by 1/2 inch. Similarly I did request the gorge to be dropped a bit more from the baste fitting, which he was happy to accommodate to that and dropped the gorge by 1/2 inch (but no further below).

The only 2 major points I’d like to invite him to pay attention to are:

1. The checks on the lapels are, as you can see, not parallel to the lapel edge (this was partially due to my own reason in that I did ask for widening the lapels by 1/4 during the baste fitting, though I guess that might be something that can be catered to a bit better?)

2. Vents are a bit too short - they are functional and fully closing, though a bit restrictive when I move. And the are significantly shorter than most my SC / suits. So I do expect them to be made longer next time.

And next time I believe I can be a bit more experimental with a wider fit overall (so wider shoulder and less waist nipping), as well as a lower chest pocket.

Overall I’m very happy with this little project, and I welcome any thoughts that you may have.

Yours truly,
RAF
 

Stanacle

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View attachment 1627590

So this is a sport coat I commissioned with SY Wong sifu. Tried his trousers, trust his delivery, like his style, so made then jump.

~10oz Scottish wool in gunclub. Wearable indoors or at night in HK summer time, though def on the hotter side of the spectrum. There’s a good blend of brown, beige, green and black, within a restrained colour palette on the colder side.

The fit I think is spot-on, and he made all the details right for a first-time jacket. 3-roll-2 with straight lapels, con-rollino shoulders, 3 patch pockets. Machine-stitching on lapel edges (which I felt better suit this slightly countrified fabric)

And he was willing to experiment on fit (albeit within a very small range): I did encourage him to drop extend the shoulders a tad wider, and he was willing to do so to the extent that he widened them by 1/2 inch. Similarly I did request the gorge to be dropped a bit more from the baste fitting, which he was happy to accommodate to that and dropped the gorge by 1/2 inch (but no further below).

The only 2 major points I’d like to invite him to pay attention to are:

1. The checks on the lapels are, as you can see, not parallel to the lapel edge (this was partially due to my own reason in that I did ask for widening the lapels by 1/4 during the baste fitting, though I guess that might be something that can be catered to a bit better?)

2. Vents are a bit too short - they are functional and fully closing, though a bit restrictive when I move. And the are significantly shorter than most my SC / suits. So I do expect them to be made longer next time.

And next time I believe I can be a bit more experimental with a wider fit overall (so wider shoulder and less waist nipping), as well as a lower chest pocket.

Overall I’m very happy with this little project, and I welcome any thoughts that you may have.

Yours truly,
RAF
This sports coat looks gorgeous! Where did you get the fabrics?
 

dukenukem4ever

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They did not show me Londoner, but they do got a book of another Scabal 140s. I had a quick look on it and I had a feeling that it was actually a re-name of Londoner by Scabal...
Thanks so much for the scoop, really appreciate it!
I'm looking to get a suit made sometime next year after COVID is done with; ideally, I want to stock up on some fabrics. Anyone know of any other 'affordable' options for Scabal fabric (have searched ebay and some UK sellers sell end of roll short meter lengths but none of the designs quite catch my eyes.)
 

Nara_Deer

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And I just went to Samuel Chen, had a quick look on its scabal collection. They got sample books, and fabrics are fairly priced. I will think about what to make and revisit for the purchase. Many thanks for your kind recommendation!
Kwong Hing in TST also have some Scabal with good price, you may take a look if you are around.
 

thesupremegrape

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What are shanghaineses tailors known for? E.g. British tailors are known for having very structured suits, Parisian tailors are known for the pagoda shoulder, italian tailors are known for their unstructured suits. Are shanghainese tailors specialised in on style or does it completely depend on the tailor?
 

thesupremegrape

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Anyone bought from Yorkshire Fabrics in the UK? They have some Holland and Sherry for very good prices, wanted to see if anyone had any feedback? Are there any other places in the UK to look out for?
 

Warrant_Buffet

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What are shanghaineses tailors known for? E.g. British tailors are known for having very structured suits, Parisian tailors are known for the pagoda shoulder, italian tailors are known for their unstructured suits. Are shanghainese tailors specialised in on style or does it completely depend on the tailor?
Something traditional and / or structured - British - would be your best bet, but many of them would be happy to offer less padded stuff.

A couple sifus seem more competent at Italian tailoring though
 

thesupremegrape

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Something traditional and / or structured - British - would be your best bet, but many of them would be happy to offer less padded stuff.

A couple sifus seem more competent at Italian tailoring though
Nice, I am partial to a structure/British suit! Btw do you know if any Sifus can do a pagoda / Cifonelli shoulder?
 

Warrant_Buffet

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Nice, I am partial to a structure/British suit! Btw do you know if any Sifus can do a pagoda / Cifonelli shoulder?
Not something common but I bet some are willing to try. I'm having Fung make a sport coat with them pagodas but it's been months since the 1st fitting...

Make sure you communicate with the sifu first and see if you understand their approach. If I understand correctly, the fabric around the upper back (esp. towards the sleeveheads) have to be pulled tightly when stitched such that you'd get the concaving even if the shoulders are not heavily padded.
 

holy_guacamole

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Hello guys, wondering if anyone know if there's a baotou who makes overshirts? I’m looking to make a linen one.
Thanks.
 

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