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The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PekingRoadHK, May 2, 2017.

  1. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    Holland & Sherry Perennial Classics, full canvas by Ng sifu :

    Holland&Sherry1.JPG

    Holland&Sherry2.JPG

    Holland&Sherry3.jpg

    Holland&Sherry4.JPG

    Holland&Sherry5.JPG

    I asked Ng sifu why it takes so long to make suits for local consumers.

    His answer :
    high season: after Mid-Autumn Festival until Chinese new year. takes longer than a month, could be 3 months.
    low leason: after Chinese new year until before Mid-Autumn Festival. takes less than a month.

    He considers his local customers are demanding details and quality, ie. the best quality. Therefore, he arranges the best people to make our suits, it takes long as his best people are always busy.

    People have to make request when they make the order, 1 week / 2 weeks is possible (depending on his workload at that moment). Consumers cannot expect the best quality in this case.
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2018

  2. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    Drago 140S, full canvas by Jim sifu (with over 40 years in tailoring) :

    drago5.JPG

    drago6.JPG

    drago7.JPG

    this Jim sifu case, it took 3 weeks to complete the job in high season last year!
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2018

  3. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    I made better lighting environment to take better photos:

    all by Ng sifu

    Dugdale Mohair
    Dugdale Mohair 2
    Dugdale NFW
    Holland & Sherry Perennial Classics
    VBC revenge
    VBC revenge 2

    Ngsifu.DugdaleMohair.JPG

    Ngsifu.DugdaleMohair2.JPG

    Ngsifu.DugdaleNFW.JPG

    Ngsifu.Holland SherryPerennial.JPG

    Ngsifu.VBCrevenge.JPG

    Ngsifu.VBCrevenge2.JPG
     

  4. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    This is the work of 13/F Hung sifu, outsource to HK old sifu (made in HK, not Shenzhen) for high grade Shanghai workmanship, canvas from England, fabric is Scabal Londoner super 140.

    It doesn't seem right. I asked him to pass it to the old sifu to do the alterations, and make things right after Chinese new year.

    Hungsifu.ScabalLondoner.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019

  5. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    This one comes from Lo Wu Shopping Mall 3 years ago. Tailor made suede leather jacket, I forgot RMB 1.3k or 1.5k. The first photo shows Lo Wu choices of China suede leather from Dongmen fabric market. I gave them my Esprit jacket to copy, no fitting! They made it in a week. It looks perfect for that kind of price.

    Shenzhen suede leather.jpg

    LoWu.1.JPG

    LoWu.2.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2019

  6. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    This one comes from one of the best leather jacket tailors in HK. This is HK sifu, made in HK (not Shenzhen).

    different leathers have different characters, 1 - 3 are the most common for most people. most of them from Italy, some from Spain :
    1) lamb suede leather. soft, it is best comfort for most people. due to humidity in asian pacific region, suede leather does not last too long (e.g. 3 years).
    2) lambskin leather. soft, comfort and long lasting (e.g. 10 years).
    3) cowhide leather. hard, not too comfort, but long long lasting (e.g. 30 years).

    lamb suede leather 京皮.JPG
    lambskin leather 羊皮.JPG
    cowhide leather 牛皮.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2019

  7. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    expensive! most of them from Italy, some from Spain :
    4) ostrich leather
    5) python leather
    6) crocodile leather

    ostrich leather 鴕鳥皮.JPG

    python leather 蟒蛇皮.JPG

    crocodile leather 鱷魚皮.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2019

  8. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    This is my new leather jacket. This cowhide leather comes from Brazil. Why I picked cowhide leather? because it will last very long time.

    KM.5.JPG

    KM.6.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2019

  9. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    originally, I wanted a bike jacket, but I think I am too old for it.
    this is a sample of lambskin leather bike jacket in the shop:
    KM.bike1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019

  10. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    I didn't expect they pay great attention to details during fitting for a $5k jacket.

    front.JPG

    front2.jpg

    back.JPG

    side.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2019

  11. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    I like it so shiny!

    KM.8.jpg

    KM.4.JPG
     

  12. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    Many years ago, my friend showed me his bike jacket (James Dean style), he said it came from his father (his father was wearing it for 30 years), and he has been wearing it for many years after his father.

    Now, I have found a leather jacket tailor in Mirador and cowhide leather, I want a bomber jacket. I plan to keep it for a few decades.

    this is dual (double) opening zipper / two way zipper:

    KM.3.JPG
     

  13. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    I took some photos yesterday in Bens Hung sifu workshop. This post is about canvas. Full canvas suit Vs Half canvas suit Vs Fused suit, what's inside the suit? There are different canvas at different cost:

    1) The first one is canvas from England, it has a lot more elasticity. This one is usually for high grade Shanghai workmanship of full canvas suits (made in HK). The canvas will go through soaking underwater for 2 days. Then, they will dry the canvas with a big machines before cutting. They have a few time consuming procedures working on the canvas, fine needle after fitting is another one. Therefore, it takes a few more days to complete a suit.

    2) The 2nd one is canvas from China. This one is usually for ordinary Shanghai workmanship of full canvas suits and half canvas suits (made in Shenzhen). The work on canvas is a lot more simple. They put water on the canvas and dry it with ironer, before cutting. Less fine needle after fitting is another one. Therefore, it takes less time to complete a suit.

    3) & 4) The 3rd one is fused canvas from Italy. The 4th one is fused canvas from Korea. Both are for Shanghai workmanship of fused suits (made in Shenzhen). If you are looking for Guangdong workmanship of fused suits, they use fused canvas from China.

    canvas from England :
    Full canvas from England3.JPG

    canvas from China :
    Full canvas from China.JPG

    fused canvas from Italy :
    Fused canvas from Italy.JPG

    fused canvas from Korea :
    Fused canvas from Korea.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2019

  14. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    I picked up my new suit yesterday, made by Bens Hung sifu (he outsources the work to HK old sifu). The fabric is Scabal Londoner super 140s. This one is high grade Shanghai workmanship (made in HK). What is the difference between high grade Shanghai workmanship (made in HK) and ordinary Shanghai workmanship (made in Shenzhen)? Hung explained, working on the full canvas from England is one big difference. The other difference is the fine needle on the whole suit, this is the details of a suit.

    Scabal Londoner1.JPG

    Scabal Londoner2.JPG

    high grade Shanghai workmanship1.JPG

    high grade Shanghai workmanship2.JPG

    high grade Shanghai workmanship3.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2019

  15. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    For high grade Shanghai workmanship (made in HK), working on the canvas has certain procedures, it takes more time and has its value. Hong Kong sifu, hand made in HK, this is unique. Just like those expensive tailor shops in HK, Hong Kong sifu, hand made in HK, Hong Kong workshop, it must be more expensive than Shenzhen sifu, made in Shenzhen.

    I don't like the cutting, it's not the workmanship or the materials. This Peak Lapel is much better: All About the Double-Breasted Suit
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2019

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