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The Hong Kong BaoTou Tailors and Fabric Shops for CMT Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by PekingRoadHK, May 2, 2017.

  1. Lennyatc

    Lennyatc Member

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    hi, any comments on my new suits?
    IMG_5999.JPG
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    IMG_6006.JPG
    IMG_6003.JPG

    IMG_5992.JPG
     

  2. Lennyatc

    Lennyatc Member

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    my first mirador suits.
     

  3. Chowkin

    Chowkin Senior Member

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    Bulging in the lapel
    The dreaded X

    Both suggests the jacket is too tight

    Plus the right panel doesn’t look smooth

    C47B633F-995F-44ED-B267-0C74B7CD31EA.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2018

  4. Lennyatc

    Lennyatc Member

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    Thank you very much for your reply sir!
     

  5. Lennyatc

    Lennyatc Member

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    This is another photos of the same suits made in Mirador.
    Hope it helps.

    IMG_6064.JPG
     

  6. Lennyatc

    Lennyatc Member

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    can see both lapels with this one
    IMG_6065.JPG
     

  7. bamboo

    bamboo Senior Member

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    This looks better, but I suggest you to take a photo you stand straight.
    It looks most of X things are due to your posture when the photo was taken, but you don't stand straight yet.

    Other than that what happened to the left sleeves? why so many wrinkles??
     

  8. Lennyatc

    Lennyatc Member

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    Merci beaucoup Monsieur!
    Yes I was wearing a shirt with big French cuffs. And the left cuff of my shirt is made even bigger because I usually wear a watch with my left wrist. I think that's why there are a lot of wrinkles on my left sleeve. There is no wrinkle if I wear an ordinary shirt. The tailor did ask me whether I wished the suits sleeves made wider and I said no need.
     

  9. Suit_newbie

    Suit_newbie Member

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    Are the baotaos in Mirador mansion making bespoke suits (as opposed to MTM or other variations)? They say they can turn around a suit in 2 weeks with one fitting, but the fastest tailor on Savile Row say to allow for 6 weeks.
     

  10. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    Bentley Vs Camry

    different waiting time, price, quality, service.
     

  11. Suit_newbie

    Suit_newbie Member

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    But it's closer to bespoke rather made to measure? As in the tailor in Mirador mansion is making a pattern from scratch, rather than adjusting a standard block to fit the customer?
     

  12. bamboo

    bamboo Senior Member

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    In my understanding, there are gauge germents size 46,48 etc for MTM.
    Clients wear the gauge and fitter makes the adjustment. Baotao measures your body without gauge germents. I think they have paper patterns usually rather than just draw and cut on the cloth.

    In terms of standard block. It is a Savile Row method, they take customer measurment from the body but they have a standard pattern to work with.
    (I have no real experience of real SR tailor. I just have experience of ex-SR).

    Below is one of SR association's requirement.

    * Typically create a two-piece suit with at least 50 hours of hand work

    I wonder how many man-hour is normal for Baotao but should be substantially shorter than this.
     

  13. Suit_newbie

    Suit_newbie Member

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    My understanding from reading the posts, articles and talking to cutters on the Row is that for bespoke, a pattern is made from scratch without any blocks. Having read this entire thread, you see customers being measured and given a baste fitting and so I was curious whether the baotao creates a new pattern from scratch. I mean, with a made to measure, there wouldn't be any need for a baste fitting; just put on the standard garment, take measurements and adjust from there. And, if I've understood you correctly, you're suggesting it's in between bespoke (no fresh pattern for each customer) and made to measure (the customer doesn't need to wear to standard garment)?

    I agree, it just doesn't seem likely a baotao can spend 50 hours of handwork on the coat and trousers and then give it to the customer in 2 weeks.

    Part of me thinks the entire baotao process is closer to bespoke than made to measure, and the shortcuts compared to the Row is taken in the actual making of the suit. Another shortcut could be the baste fitting isn't taken apart like in the Row. I could be totally wrong and am happy to be corrected.
     

  14. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    go mirador, ask any BaoTou to show you how they work.
    you will see they make the pattern from scratch. they can do that in front of you.
    it's bespoke rather than MTM.

    in their Mirador workshops, you can check on their semi finished products and finished products. you can look into details of the suit to see which BaoTou suits you most.

    this is summer time, they are not busy. most of them will be happy to show you how they work. don't do it in winter, it's their high seasons.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2018

  15. PekingRoadHK

    PekingRoadHK Senior Member

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    Baotou do the cutting and fitting only, in Mirador. the rest of the work is based in their Shenzhen workshops by their Shenzhen labour (assembly line).

    if you are interested, you can ask your BaoTou to show you his Shenzhen workshop to see how they work. you can see who works on your shoulder, who works on your canvas, who works on your Milanese buttonhole, who works on your trousers, etc. #3 of this thread is an example.

    what does it mean for assembly line?
    they can complete the job in less than 18 hours, with different labour working on different part of the suit at the same time. 18 hours work in assembly line could mean over 24 hours labour work. this is totally different from Savile Row method, one tailor works on the suit for all parts of the job. therefore, it is meaningless to compare labour hours.

    Compare the workmanship, that's the difference, different labour cost for different workmanship from different assembly lines/workshops.

    Canvas: Baotou offer China canvas (horsehair canvas??? low cost), Savile Row tailors offer British canvas (horsehair canvas, high cost). this is one of the differences.

    What is the workmanship difference between Mirador and Savile Row?
    look at the price, why do you expect Savile Row quality with Mirador price?
    Bentley Vs Camry, you want a Bentley, you pay for a Bentley price.
    You want a suit from Savile Row, go Savile Row. Never expect Savile Row quality from Baotou for Mirador price!
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2018

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