• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

otc

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
24,529
Reaction score
19,184
Any suggestions for lighting the bottom of cabinets that hang over an island?

They hang above eye level so I don't want something that will throw off glare or look ugly (since unlike other under cabinet lighting, they won't be hidden from standing sight).

No electricity available as they hang from a concrete ceiling with no existing wiring, so they will probably have to be battery powered. Maybe they catch enough sunlight and residual light that solar batteries might work.

Space is roughly two 12x14 cabinet bottoms (there is a longer middle section, but it has a wine glass hanging rack), so I am looking at things more like puck lights rather than strips.

Edit: decent CRI would be ideal, but seems unlikely...
 

Ataturk

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
14,843
Reaction score
2,935
99% of the problems people have with reciprocating saws involve them using the wrong blade, a dull blade, or them just not knowing how to use the saw. Any of the major 18v brands will eat right through 2x4s and nails. If you're cutting plate steel a lot, maybe you want a plug in but otherwise the convenience of battery powered wins the day.



ETA: guy saws a riding mower in half in 2 minutes using a $35 (at least that's what I paid for mine) Hitachi 18v sawzall. And he doesn't exactly wow you with his technique.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Gus

jcman311

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2015
Messages
8,183
Reaction score
8,155
Yeah battery powered is pretty close in price to corded these days. We’re out of the sales season but a kit with a couple of tools (drill, saw, impact, etc) and a couple of batteries can be had for around $200-$300 for really quality tools. Just about any major brand will do, but I’d shy away from craftsman after being sold and now not made or hq in the usa. Kobalt, Ryobi, Milwaukee, Bosch, Porter Cable, Ridgid, Dewalt are all close in terms of quality and price. Even if you just buy what you need, choose a line that can expand easily so that a simple combo kit can become a nice arsenal in the future. (I’ve been building my 15+ tool kit since 2009)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gus

sugarbutch

Bearded Prick
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Messages
24,659
Reaction score
35,692
I like DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Makita for cordless. For the recipe saw, Milwaukee's Sawzall may not be made like they used to, but they're still stout and hold up to abuse. For the inexhaustible electrons, I would probably choose corded and an extension cord over cordless. That said, cordless is certainly up to most jobs.

Whichever brand you get, you should consider the kits which include a drill/driver and a light impact driver. The latter drives screws really nicely. You might also want an oscillating multi-tool for the remodeling work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gus

sugarbutch

Bearded Prick
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Messages
24,659
Reaction score
35,692
P.S.: Picking one brand and battery type for all of the tools will make your life easier. Once you've done that, three batteries and a couple of chargers will have you shittin' in high cotton. :)
 

brokencycle

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
28,506
Reaction score
30,298
P.S.: Picking one brand and battery type for all of the tools will make your life easier. Once you've done that, three batteries and a couple of chargers will have you shittin' in high cotton. :)

That's a good point.
Yeah battery powered is pretty close in price to corded these days. We’re out of the sales season but a kit with a couple of tools (drill, saw, impact, etc) and a couple of batteries can be had for around $200-$300 for really quality tools. Just about any major brand will do, but I’d shy away from craftsman after being sold and now not made or hq in the usa. Kobalt, Ryobi, Milwaukee, Bosch, Porter Cable, Ridgid, Dewalt are all close in terms of quality and price. Even if you just buy what you need, choose a line that can expand easily so that a simple combo kit can become a nice arsenal in the future. (I’ve been building my 15+ tool kit since 2009)

Home Depot has had the Milwaukee combo packs as a deal of the day every couple weeks for a few months. I'm guessing Home Depot committed to sell a lot of product for their deal with Milwaukee.

In fact, here's a big kit that is still on sale: https://slickdeals.net/f/12479338-m...ool-box-499?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1
 

Numbernine

Stylish Dinosaur
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
11,952
Reaction score
16,240
The one tool I miss most(contractors provided all our tools) since I've retired is the porta-band. Pipefitters use those things constantly especially when an oxy/acetylene rig is unavailable or impractical.
 

Bromley

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2015
Messages
1,046
Reaction score
2,321
I hope to be moving soon so it will be handy to have a good assortment of power tools around. The tools I have are ancient and all with cords.

What do you guys recommend in the way of power tools if you knew you were going to move and tackle some pretty basic remodeling projects? (assembly, trim, hanging stuff, that sort of thing)

Seems a battery power drill would be ideal. I have a ****** old circular and jig saw that is rarely used but handy when needed.

Any suggestions?
Essential: Miter saw, circular saw, drill, impact driver, random orbit sander, and maybe an oscillating multi-tool (depending on demolition needs). Nail gun is nice to have for trim. Batteries are usually interchangeable within a brand. A few extra batteries are nice to have, as well. Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gus

Kappelan

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
2,915
Reaction score
8,848
Another project progress )


32291016238_3ae43c8ca6_c.jpg


44345459000_61e719e799_c.jpg


45757281394_c107411a5a_c.jpg


What was done right before Christmas.

45567581345_5f8bc91027_c.jpg


45567580575_fa3acc85f2_c.jpg


45757266294_6fa280ae6e_c.jpg


Still a lot of work to do.
 
Last edited:

Piobaire

Not left of center?
Joined
Dec 5, 2006
Messages
81,833
Reaction score
63,360
Has anyone mentioned an air compressor yet? Need an air compressor.
 

sugarbutch

Bearded Prick
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Messages
24,659
Reaction score
35,692
For the nail gun/stapler? I think the battery powered versions have progressed to the point that the advantage of air-powered versions aren’t worth the hassle of hoses and a compressor.

Perhaps you have other tools/uses in mind...
 

Medwed

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2011
Messages
5,750
Reaction score
1,453
I've not seen a hand shower incorporated into a tub/shower like that before but it's a really good idea! Usually I see those attachments which don't look the best.
I don't get shower fixtures that are hidden inside the particle wall. Why?
What if some joint starts to leak, and it usually does? You would find out always too late when you have mold and rot and to fix it you would need to destroy the wall and fix the wooden floors that have been rotting for years. Why not install 'Victorian' external fixtures? They come with rain-shower and handheld and look better , imo.
Also never understood those tiny 3" back-splashes in the bathrooms or kitchens around the sinks. Why not just tile the walls properly? That way you can wash off all the soap and toothpaste etc. from the walls.
 
Last edited:

brokencycle

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
28,506
Reaction score
30,298
I don't get shower fixtures that are hidden inside the particle wall. Why?
What if some joint starts to leak, and it usually does? You would find out always too late when you have mold and rot and to fix it you would need to destroy the wall and fix the wooden floors that have been rotting for years. Why not install 'Victorian' external fixtures? They come with rain-shower and handheld and look better , imo.
Also never understood those tiny 3" back-splashes in the bathrooms or kitchens around the sinks. Why not just tile the walls properly? That way you can wash off all the soap and toothpaste etc. from the walls.

Why don't we just expose all of our plumbing in case there is a leak? Why don't we expose all of our duct work and electrical too?
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 91 37.8%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 89 36.9%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 25 10.4%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 40 16.6%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.8%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,802
Messages
10,592,042
Members
224,318
Latest member
floralgaragesg
Top