STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.
Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!
Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.
wondering if folks are mostly running LED lighting these days ,
anybody using halogen ?
Right = requires no explanation to an inspector. There are downsides to every material choice, so I’m privileging the approach which has no negative regulatory implications.Well, in this exame, I have never developed a pinhole leak in a PVC trap set up
Not a strong believer that what local government says is "right", this is why there are varying interpretations of codes based on municipality.
And that is fair, if you are pulling permits for work I completely agree with you, I just thought this was a one off repair. I haven't had permits or inspectors for years so it is a bit different.Right = requires no explanation to an inspector. There are downsides to every material choice, so I’m privileging the approach which has no negative regulatory implications.
The last time I used halogen was probably 2015 or so. They get incredibly hot and don't offer any benefit over LED other than no dimmer compatibility issues. We do have one light fixture that uses xenon bulbs because they came with the fixture.
dimmer issues sure but also general quality of reflected color , sounds like you are happy with LED . thx !
If you are going to take down your entire ceiling, have you considered doing spray foam above the attic space and then batts when you reinstall the ceiling?Sigh.
I have blown in insulation in the attic. The ceilings upstairs are destroyed from previous water damage. Really bad pillowing. Basically the only way to truly fix them is to replace. Trying to decide whether to just hire a drywall contractor and say "do your best" or actually replace the ceiling.
Going to be a god damned mess to replace, but at least we could replace the blown in with batts. Once again a pain ********** since the joists/rafter ties are 2x6, which gets us only R-23 with mineral wool.
To get R-38 (which is technically what's required) we'd need to furr out to 2x10, or 2x8 for R-30.
I really want to close in the attic when we replace the roof, so replacing the ceiling and insulation doesn't really make sense now. It would be a hell of a lot easier to insulate the rafters without the ceiling in place.
They've gotten a lot better and a lot cheaper. Look at Phillips and Cree. They have 90+ CRI and warm on dim that mimic incandescent
PVC is not code-compliant here in the People's Republic of San Francisco. Like Ronny James Dio, we are all metal here.
I made the mistake of shutting off the water to the sink to prevent inadvertent use of the faucet while the drain was disconnected. This was apparently too much for the seals in the valves which had gotten too used to the status quo. Got a rush of black water when I reopened them (presumably disintegrated seals), and now the flow is much reduced.
I don't have time for this ****...
The level of effort to be compliant is essentially the same, so why not do it the right way?
They've gotten a lot better and a lot cheaper. Look at Phillips and Cree. They have 90+ CRI and warm on dim that mimic incandescent