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The Home Ownership Thread

Discussion in 'Fine Living, Home, Design & Auto' started by Douglas, Jan 31, 2012.

  1. Ataturk

    Ataturk Well-Known Member

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    11,071
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    Apr 18, 2008
    The springs are on the door hanging mechanism, not the little motor that pulls it the door up and down.

    Disconnecting the garage door opener is a good idea, though. Make sure the door moves freely. It should basically hold itself up at any given point in the travel. If it doesn't the springs need to be adjusted.

    If the door moves freely, I'd get the manual for your specific opener and see what it tells you to do as far as troubleshooting that issue. You might have to set the travel of the opener somehow.

    Or you might just have something blocking the little safety sensors.
     
  2. sinnedk

    sinnedk Well-Known Member

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    San Francisco
    

    yea i did that, thats how i know there is some issue with the opener


    1. Travel - need to double check but i remember i can pull it all the way up and it doesn't come down.
    2. Manual - dont have manual, bought house and i assume this thing is a bit old, i can probably look up a manual
    3. Blocking - hmmm, ok that makes sense, i think its unlikely but i'll check

    i was able to unplug and reset the door, then it went up once fully and closed once fully. but its not as smooth as usual. i'll give it some time tonight if it doesn't work i think its handyman time...
     
  3. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Jan 9, 2010
    The rails on which it travels may be bent/warped, or the rollers that attach to the door and travel in the rails may not be attached fully/correctly. Give them a look.
     
  4. gort

    gort Well-Known Member

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    Any DIY solutions for a tiny crack that is forming on the lip of my washer drip tray? IT's tiny now but don't want it growing.
     
  5. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Well-Known Member

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    Nope
     
  6. eglbc

    eglbc Well-Known Member

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  7. SUPER K

    SUPER K Well-Known Member

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    Are the hinges, rollers, chain and rail all lubricated? Some of my neighbors doors sound like nails on a chalkboard.

    Last week my unit had an issue with the circuit board section linked to the safety "eyes' With parts and call out I was looking at $250. For $450 had it all replaced with the new belt driven model. from Liftmaster/Chamberlain . So quiet.
     
  8. sinnedk

    sinnedk Well-Known Member

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    San Francisco
    

    i think you are talking to me re: garage door, everything seems ok, not sure what the deal is.
     
  9. jbarwick

    jbarwick Well-Known Member

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    Taking Thursday and Friday off work to start adding some insulation to the house. First it will be the crawl space to insulate the floors then into the attic. Hoping to at least get recessed lighting covers and rafter baffles installed then blow in insulation when I have some helping hands in town in 2 weeks.

    My wife keeps bringing up putting in some retaining walls to level some areas for outdoor seating as our yard is sloped. From what I can find online, it looks like a cinder block wall faced with natural stone then filled with dirt would be easiest. The other option is digging out the sloped area but our yard is a graveyard of old tree roots that would be a major headache.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Installing new floors in the new apartment. This is turning into an expensive nightmare.

    Any insight on solid vs. engineered wood in a pre-war NYC apartment with steam radiator heating?
     
  11. Ataturk

    Ataturk Well-Known Member

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    I'd go with solid wood if you can. Heat can dry your floor out and cause excessive wood movement, but I wouldn't think it would be an issue if it's installed correctly. Those radiators have been around since before engineered floors existed.

    Maybe research the particular species of wood you're planning to use to make sure it doesn't move excessively. Were the old floors damaged by the radiators?
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2015
  12. jbarwick

    jbarwick Well-Known Member

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    Well insulating my crawl space was easy. Just 4 hours worth of time and it is complete. Next up is prepping the attic for more blown in insulation. I am thinking total cost will be right around $1,000 which is not bad at all.
     
  13. Marc Voorhees

    Marc Voorhees Well-Known Member

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    does anyone have experience with pre 1800s homes and insulation? thanks in advance
     
  14. Find Finn

    Find Finn Well-Known Member

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    Around here it's easy, as the answer is none.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Marc Voorhees

    Marc Voorhees Well-Known Member

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    not sure if this is directed towards me, but if it is, thevquestion is about adding attic insulation without a proper vapor barrier. there is blown in insulation installed already, but it is conservatively 20 years ol, dirty and compressed. I plan on removing it and replacing it with new stuff. what are the potential issues with just adding the new stuff?
     
  16. jbarwick

    jbarwick Well-Known Member

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    Shouldn't be much of a vapor issue unless there have been roof leaking issues. I am adding rafter baffles for ventilation from the eaves for added peace of mind but other than that, nothing special. Depending on your budget, I have heard the newer foam insulation sprays you can add help a lot but they are pretty expensive up front. Our house would have been close to $10K for that alone. We are in sort of the mid-south of the US and have quite a bit of shade from trees so I just wanted to add a little more at a lower cost.
     
  17. Thrifter

    Thrifter Well-Known Member

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    May 6, 2009
    Location:
    Ottawa
    How much should I spend on a new front door (frame and sidelight window)? I was just given an estimate of $3500+ (Canada).
     
  18. brokencycle

    brokencycle Well-Known Member

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    The Old North State
    It depends on the type of door, how big, if you're going custom, etc. You can easily get a pretty good fiberglass door installed for ~$1000 or less.
     
  19. ChrisGold

    ChrisGold Well-Known Member

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    775
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    Dec 2, 2010
    

    At that price it should be mahogany. Sounds very high, unless you are talking about a lot of work to reframe + a high quality door.
     
  20. Thrifter

    Thrifter Well-Known Member

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    Ottawa
    It seems like a high quality door - hinges have ball bearings (yay?) and heavy duty aluminum flashings outside. But it still seems high so I'm going to get a few more quotes.
     

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