The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[aj2603]

Haha .. I have a few shoes with Cuban heels. But they r all casual / heritage style

 

[ajay199127]

Haha .. I have a few shoes with Cuban heels. But they r all casual / heritage style.

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plus, your double monk oct10 shots were iconic, and they had some nasty Cubans on them

 

[aj2603]

plus, your double monk oct10 shots were iconic, and they had some nasty Cubans on them

Haha.. thanks.. not exactly cuban.. but I get ur point

Belive me its all confusing.. cuban heel, woodsman heel, curved heel and tapered heel

 

[ajay199127]

Haha.. thanks.. not exactly cuban.. but I get ur point

Belive me its all confusing.. cuban heel, woodsman heel, curved heel and tapered heel

Since I am not as knowledgeable as you with the heel configurations, it's not confusing at all "Ignorance is bliss", my friend

 

[aj2603]

Since I am not as knowledgeable as you with the heel configurations, it's not confusing at all "Ignorance is bliss", my friend

best to do so.. technically all 4 r different and many arguments have been had here which I don't want to repeat

 

[bernoulli]

My Acmes also have Cuban heels. I think it is because people in China don't mind a pair of shoes that makes them taller. I am already a lampost, so was surprised when my pair also showed up with this type of heels. That feature does not bother me, though.

 

[Adhazem]

My Acmes also have Cuban heels. I think it is because people in China don't mind a pair of shoes that makes them taller. I am already a lampost, so was surprised when my pair also showed up with this type of heels. That feature does not bother me, though.

I honestly like it. It’s just a bit different.

 

[taxgenius]

My Acmes also have Cuban heels. I think it is because people in China don't mind a pair of shoes that makes them taller. I am already a lampost, so was surprised when my pair also showed up with this type of heels. That feature does not bother me, though.

Avoid dogs.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

My Acmes also have Cuban heels. I think it is because people in China don't mind a pair of shoes that makes them taller. I am already a lampost, so was surprised when my pair also showed up with this type of heels. That feature does not bother me, though.

Have never seen Acme's with higher Cuban heels, do you have photos? Their standard is tapered heels with regular 1 1/8" height, which is what all their base lasts are developed for.

 

[bernoulli]

When I received the shoes I noted the distinct heel. I was informed that it was a type of Cuban heel. Maybe I understood it wrong. You tell me.

Have never seen Acme's with higher Cuban heels, do you have photos? Their standard is tapered heels with regular 1 1/8" height, which is what all their base lasts are developed for.

 

[aj2603]

When I received the shoes I noted the distinct heel. I was informed that it was a type of Cuban heel. Maybe I understood it wrong. You tell me.

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Not exactly .. that's not a cuban heel.. its a tapered heel

 

[aj2603]

Cuban heel- generally a higher heel, it is typically even with the rand at the top and characteristically slants in a straight line from the back of the heel towards the front of the heel block. The entire block may be slanted inwards somewhat, or just the rear towards the front. Originates from riding shoes.

Logger heel- similar to the cuban in that it’s raised and flush to the rand, loggers have a curvature to them that makes them distinctly different from cuban heels (despite this, many makers will use the terms interchangeably. Show pictures for your MTO’s to be safe). Usually the curvature is all the way around the sides of the heel block, but is more aggressive in the rear. Originates form work boots.

Tapered heel- May or may not be slightly higher, depending on the style. Flush with the rand too, however, the rand and heel block are often matched to the curvature of the heel cup to crate a more continuous shape that narrows towards the bottom of the heel block. Generally, *all* sides of the heel block will typically be slanted from vertical in some capacity, notably the portion of the block that is under-foot. Mostly found in dress shoes, especially those with tapered or fiddle-back waists, due to the lack of a shelf created by a welt. Not really sure of a more specific origin beyond that; probably dandy stuff.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

When I received the shoes I noted the distinct heel. I was informed that it was a type of Cuban heel. Maybe I understood it wrong. You tell me.

View attachment 1793509

Ah yeah that's regular tapered heel. But it's a mess with definitions of heels, so not surprised some Chinese makers call i Cuban heel.

Cuban heel- generally a higher heel, it is typically even with the rand at the top and characteristically slants in a straight line from the back of the heel towards the front of the heel block. The entire block may be slanted inwards somewhat, or just the rear towards the front. Originates from riding shoes.

Logger heel- similar to the cuban in that it’s raised and flush to the rand, loggers have a curvature to them that makes them distinctly different from cuban heels (despite this, many makers will use the terms interchangeably. Show pictures for your MTO’s to be safe). Usually the curvature is all the way around the sides of the heel block, but is more aggressive in the rear. Originates form work boots.

Tapered heel- May or may not be slightly higher, depending on the style. Flush with the rand too, however, the rand and heel block are often matched to the curvature of the heel cup to crate a more continuous shape that narrows towards the bottom of the heel block. Generally, *all* sides of the heel block will typically be slanted from vertical in some capacity, notably the portion of the block that is under-foot. Mostly found in dress shoes, especially those with tapered or fiddle-back waists, due to the lack of a shelf created by a welt. Not really sure of a more specific origin beyond that; probably dandy stuff.

Good summary, though as I mention above it's a bit of a mess these things and some things are confused and have been for many decades, so sort of flicked meaning especially in certain circles.

On tapered heels on dress shoes, traditionally it's only the back part that is tapered, and sides straight. That's the classic "bespoke" heel and how makers done it since 100+ years back. I think one of the reason we've lately seen much more of the fully tapered heels, is since more makers of RTW and MTO who machine shape their heels do tapered heels, and then you can't do the traditional "bespoke" shape heel.

 

[prof.contingency]

I went up to Hampstead yesterday to a few pictures of these split-toe Derbys beauties from Yearn. Those of you who are familiar with London will know that Hampstead feels like stepping back in time to an 18th-century village, which is so odd given that it is situated in London.

Anyhow, we made the shoes up for a client, who I suspect is a member, using Horween's hatch grain.

 

[ajay199127]

looks beautiful...