The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Entry level - I don't think anybody is producing quite that type of last at an entry price.

What will they sell for? Details concerning what the internals consist of, or really the shoes in general?

 

[Adhazem]

What was the cost of the shoes?

For the MTM it’s about $1,500 with trees including 3 pairs of trial shoes. Not sure why it was that many trial shoes needed but I really think their work is neat and went ahead. Their RTW is $800-$1200. Exotic is $4500.

 

[Adhazem]

A while back I think @nutcracker had maybe mentioned Graziat uses Xibao for making but patina is in house. Edit: found it https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-high-end-chinese-shoe-thread.665419/post-10381087

yup, was about to say the same, good memory, and if anyone is in Taipei should visit oak room (though I might visit Anthology first, Berluti type of patina isn't really my thing, definitely a lot more menswear scene in Taiwan than when I was there for sure)

That’s interesting. I know their do October10 but didn’t realize they’re who’re label for that many brands. Also that they customize lasts.

 

[JohnMRobie]

That’s interesting. I know their do October10 but didn’t realize they’re who’re label for that many brands. Also that they customize lasts.

Think people had kind of figured Xibao/Graziat/Oct10/Yeossal/Wayman/BWare all the same factory - possibly also Mori?

Some different patterns, different lasts, different leathers. Graziat does their own patina for example. Mori I thought does their own finishing - They may also use a different maker but I know Maslow spoke about learning to sand and iron edges because the factory they used wasn’t up to his standards. Wayman does modified lasts.

For the MTM it’s about $1,500 with trees including 3 pairs of trial shoes. Not sure why it was that many trial shoes needed but I really think their work is neat and went ahead. Their RTW is $800-$1200. Exotic is $4500.

3 fitters is great. If you’ve got that many shots at it I’d be picky and specific with fit. Will be curious how the fitting goes and how receptive they are to tweaks. I’ve thought they provide a nice alternative to the berluti style if that’s your thing.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

For the MTM it’s about $1,500 with trees including 3 pairs of trial shoes. Not sure why it was that many trial shoes needed but I really think their work is neat and went ahead. Their RTW is $800-$1200. Exotic is $4500.

That's certainly a substantial amount of money. The number of trial pairs certainly illicits a sense of fit confidence.
I'm sure the thread will look forward to seeing the completed pair when the time comes.

Almost forgot to say, congratulations! Not easy dropping that kind of money on a pair of shoes. Definitely a big step. Unfortunately, once you do take that larger step, it ruins you. Difficult to go back to basic footwear and attractive lower prices.

Incidentally at that price, any particular reason why you didn't look into the aforementioned Yim or ACME? Not implying they would have done a better job, but they produce a similar type of shoe with more information available (owners of their shoes and general information).

 

[Adhazem]

Think people had kind of figured Xibao/Graziat/Oct10/Yeossal/Wayman/BWare all the same factory - possibly also Mori?

Some different patterns, different lasts, different leathers. Graziat does their own patina for example. Mori I thought does their own finishing - They may also use a different maker but I know Maslow spoke about learning to sand and iron edges because the factory they used wasn’t up to his standards. Wayman does modified lasts.

3 fitters is great. If you’ve got that many shots at it I’d be picky and specific with fit. Will be curious how the fitting goes and how receptive they are to tweaks. I’ve thought they provide a nice alternative to the berluti style if that’s your thing.

Tbh I don’t know how perfect fit should fit all my other shoes are RTW/MTO although I have a pair of Enzo Bonafe being made with modifications to last. I have flat feet with a high instep so a lot of my shoes gape on the side which I’ve come to accept as part of life. Maybe eventually a bespoke shoe will be the answer.

The owner of Graziat who I’ve been communicating with on Instagram is very very pleasant and responsive. I’m stoked!

That's certainly a substantial amount of money. The number of trial pairs certainly illicits a sense of fit confidence.
I'm sure the thread will look forward to seeing the completed pair when the time comes.

Almost forgot to say, congratulations! Not easy dropping that kind of money on a pair of shoes. Definitely a big step. Unfortunately, once you do take that larger step, it ruins you. Difficult to go back to basic footwear and attractive lower prices.

Incidentally at that price, any particular reason why you didn't look into the aforementioned Yim or ACME? Not implying they would have done a better job, but they produce a similar type of shoe with more information available (owners of their shoes and general information).

That’s a great question. I have so many adelaides and brogues that I wanted to try something a little different. Not necessarily a pair I’d wear to work but certainly on date night with the wife. Graziat will basically do whatever you want with the shoe. He tells you “look on my Facebook and Instagram and see if you like anything and we can start there. Or we can start from scratch”. I’m not all too familiar with Yim but have seen some of ACME’s work on social media. At that starting price I’ve gone with Italian makers for RTW because the styles appeal to me more. That’s only to say I have two Paolo Scafora’s and one Meccariello in the works. I’m not dissing ACME or anything just with that steep of an entry price, for me I wanted something a little more…different? I’m sure I’ll eventually try them. I made a scouts honor promise to my wife I won’t buy more shoes this year.

I also agree. It’s an exceedingly expensive hobby. But it’s helping me get through COVID year(s)!!

 

[boot_owl]

What will they sell for? Details concerning what the internals consist of, or really the shoes in general?

Not sure - hopefully around $7-800 handwelted. I doubt you'd get handstitched outsoles (seems logical to save that for the higher end line)

 

[clee1982]

speaking going through covid years, I have not purchased any shoe for 3 years then covid hits, and I lost count how many I bought...

 

[Adhazem]

speaking going through covid years, I have not purchased any shoe for 3 years then covid hits, and I lost count how many I bought...

Are you kidding me? Same!!! I had purchased 0 new shoes 3 years prior to covid. Then in 2021 I’m embarrassed to say how many. I don’t even wear dress clothes to go to work anymore. Hospitals want us in scrubs that can be washed and you’re not tracking covid outside to your family and friends which is totally reasonable. So yeah it’s definitely been an interesting stress mitigation behavior for me. I had to buy my better half purses and stuff just to stay alive

 

[JohnMRobie]

Tbh I don’t know how perfect fit should fit all my other shoes are RTW/MTO although I have a pair of Enzo Bonafe being made with modifications to last. I have flat feet with a high instep so a lot of my shoes gape on the side which I’ve come to accept as part of life. Maybe eventually a bespoke shoe will be the answer.

The owner of Graziat who I’ve been communicating with on Instagram is very very pleasant and responsive. I’m stoked!



That’s a great question. I have so many adelaides and brogues that I wanted to try something a little different. Not necessarily a pair I’d wear to work but certainly on date night with the wife. Graziat will basically do whatever you want with the shoe. He tells you “look on my Facebook and Instagram and see if you like anything and we can start there. Or we can start from scratch”. I’m not all too familiar with Yim but have seen some of ACME’s work on social media. At that starting price I’ve gone with Italian makers for RTW because the styles appeal to me more. That’s only to say I have two Paolo Scafora’s and one Meccariello in the works. I’m not dissing ACME or anything just with that steep of an entry price, for me I wanted something a little more…different? I’m sure I’ll eventually try them. I made a scouts honor promise to my wife I won’t buy more shoes this year.

I also agree. It’s an exceedingly expensive hobby. But it’s helping me get through COVID year(s)!!

I think it was @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes who gave me this advice when I went bespoke. “From heel to ball like a wetsuit and then plenty of room for my toes to move around.” Since you’ll be doing the fitting yourself - fitters are disposable so grab a pen or marker and mark anywhere there’s excess volume or where there’s pressure.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Tbh I don’t know how perfect fit should fit all my other shoes are RTW/MTO although I have a pair of Enzo Bonafe being made with modifications to last. I have flat feet with a high instep so a lot of my shoes gape on the side which I’ve come to accept as part of life. Maybe eventually a bespoke shoe will be the answer.

The owner of Graziat who I’ve been communicating with on Instagram is very very pleasant and responsive. I’m stoked!



That’s a great question. I have so many adelaides and brogues that I wanted to try something a little different. Not necessarily a pair I’d wear to work but certainly on date night with the wife. Graziat will basically do whatever you want with the shoe. He tells you “look on my Facebook and Instagram and see if you like anything and we can start there. Or we can start from scratch”. I’m not all too familiar with Yim but have seen some of ACME’s work on social media. At that starting price I’ve gone with Italian makers for RTW because the styles appeal to me more. That’s only to say I have two Paolo Scafora’s and one Meccariello in the works. I’m not dissing ACME or anything just with that steep of an entry price, for me I wanted something a little more…different? I’m sure I’ll eventually try them. I made a scouts honor promise to my wife I won’t buy more shoes this year.

I also agree. It’s an exceedingly expensive hobby. But it’s helping me get through COVID year(s)!!

Then the purchase was a stylistic preference versus craftsman or company related. Seems a valid enough reason to proceed with the commission.

Probably mentioned this on another thread or on here, purchasing a pair of shoes with your eyes is not necessarily a poor decision. Provided they fit (to be determined) an item that appeals to you visually will tend to get a lot of usage.

As to how they should fit, @Jmr928 referenced my personal preferences already, but the common refrain is, "that's a personal choice." You may also read or hear, "fit is subjective".

Screw that personal choice or subjectivity nonsense. Minimum you should be aiming for is tightness at the back (ankle and heel) with looseness in the front (toes). Ideally, zero movement at the heel. Think of the heel and ankle as your security blanket. That isn't right and the darn shoe is slipping and moving around causing all sorts of issues.

Ummm so yeah...Jmr928 stole my thunder and the line I was going to use. Who cares I'll state it regardless ?. The wet suit covers from the heel to the ball of the foot (or the body), while the toes (the head) should have freedom of movement.

When you receive that trial pair focus on that first and having ankle support (I did mention the back afterall) while hopefully having movement at the toes.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Not sure - hopefully around $7-800 handwelted. I doubt you'd get handstitched outsoles (seems logical to save that for the higher end line)

That's not bad then. Just a touch higher priced than the Xibao offerings and priced about the same as the JimJuns.

 

[clee1982]

That's not bad then. Just a touch higher priced than the Xibao offerings and priced about the same as the JimJuns.

You’re thinking Jim Jun’s “advanced GYW (no idea if it’s the AW thing like AM)?

Jim Jim handwelt with trees what not all together is a lot higher now (like 900 euro for shoe, 90 euro for tree)

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

You’re thinking Jim Jun’s “advanced GYW (no idea if it’s the AW thing like AM)?

Jim Jim handwelt with trees what not all together is a lot higher now (like 900 euro for shoe, 90 euro for tree)

Yes exactly. I wasn't sure how to label it as. GYW would have misrepresented them, so I just used the maker's name.
I thought the HW stuff was already 1000€. No?

 

[clee1982]

The “option” part is like worse than buying Porsche (though he probably should just lump handwelt as product price rather than upcharge to his so called advanced GYW)