The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[bernoulli]

I have not taken possession of the Acme yet. I have handled and tried Oct Tenth but don't own a pair. I have an invitation to visit their factory/atelier but I don't know if I will have the time to visit anytime soon. I will post a comparison between Slim/Yearn, Oct10 (to the best of my abilities) and Acme when I get my first (and most likely only, as I am a salaried professional) pair next week.

You have shoes from both Acme and Slim shoes/ Yearn, right? And have seen Oct.Tenth?

Would you care to comment on the quality difference? I.e. do the quality of the components like heel stiffeners differ markedly? How about the finishing?

 

[Patrick1053]

My second pair from Wayman Bespoke.

 

[bernoulli]

Acme arrived and the shoes are superb. It is unlike anything else I have in my wardrobe and the blind waist is something hard to put into words. I have been very fortunate in my dealings with Acme, as Sasha, from Medallion, is a pleasure to deal with. @Psyko, what is exactly you would like to know?

 

[clee1982]

looks great, did you try in person or was it just remote order?

 

[bernoulli]

Here is the abridged version.

I got measured at Medallion to find the correct size for the last I wanted. They may have modified the last but I am not sure about it.

Here is the full story.

Visited Medallion to see if they had any St. Crispin in my size so I could try their lasts. Nope, but I got interested in Acme. Was informed they would have a trunk show for Acme in a couple of months. I mentioned my interest in a seamless wholecut.

Got a message regarding the trunkshow. I go and get extensively measured to determine my size for a MTO order. After that, due to an honest miscommunication, I learn that a seamless wholecut would be beyond my means. Dejectedly, I settle on a pair of balmoral boots. I pay for it.

Next day, I get cold feet, as it is a lot of money for something I don't really want or need. I ask if the project could be canceled. A short exchange of wechat messages and I get a full refund.

Months later, I inquire about a new MTO project and ask if they still have my measurements. They do. I place the order. Around 6 weeks later, here they are.

All in all, Medallion/Acme gets an A+ for customer service. Sasha is a shoe connoisseur and it was a pleasure exchanging ideas with him. There were dozens of exchanged messages to hammer all the details (swan neck, no swan neck, museum calf or regular calf, linings and sole colors etc). If not for my wife, I am sure I would spend even more time talking about the finer details of menswear with him.

Right now, I cannot see a single flaw in the final product. However, I am afraid my other shoes will band up and beat the hell out of the Acme pair, so I don't get any more ideas about new projects.

looks great, did you try in person or was it just remote order?

 

[clee1982]

6 weeks is really good, though us international customer probably is different ballgame with all the shipping delay what not.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Acme arrived and the shoes are superb. It is unlike anything else I have in my wardrobe and the blind waist is something hard to put into words. I have been very fortunate in my dealings with Acme, as Sasha, from Medallion, is a pleasure to deal with. @Psyko, what is exactly you would like to know?

View attachment 1675834 View attachment 1675835

I'm looking at the picture and I can't describe the waist. ??
Beautiful pair. Wear them in gold health.

 

[clee1982]

@bernoulli

by the way, which "base last" was it on (like was it based on N83 for example)

 

[acapaca]

Any way to get closer shots of the waist?

I'm still trying to get an answer from a dealer of Xibao (I think) about what they mean by 'blind waist'. I took delivery of a pair where I can see every single (sloppy) stitch. There is nothing 'blind' about it, if blind means can't be seen.

 

[bernoulli]

Here are some shots. I don't like comparing brands but I have nothing in my shoe collection that comes anywhere close to the blind waist in the pair from Acme. It won't be Xibao's fault though. This is an objective reason for Acme costing multiples of Xibao. My G&G, Slimshoes and AM all have waists that don't come anywhere close to Acme's. Not even close. The Acme also cost as much as the three brands put together (my G&G was bought on sale).

For once i got what I paid for. Just so you know, there is nothing much to photograph. The waist is paper thin.

Any way to get closer shots of the waist?

I'm still trying to get an answer from a dealer of Xibao (I think) about what they mean by 'blind waist'. I took delivery of a pair where I can see every single (sloppy) stitch. There is nothing 'blind' about it, if blind means can't be seen.

 

[acapaca]

Thank you. Incredible workmanship!

 

[bernoulli]

Yes, the waist is unbelievable. In China, gold health matters a lot, so let's see if I can wear them like that.

@clee1982, Last is T89.

I'm looking at the picture and I can't describe the waist. ??
Beautiful pair. Wear them in gold health.

@bernoulli

by the way, which "base last" was it on (like was it based on N83 for example)

 

[Psyko]

Very nice @bernoulli You certainly make a good case for trying Acme.

Based on your comments I assume the finishing and construction technique is far beyond what Oct.tenth deliver. Not unreasonable at all given the price difference!

When it comes to internal components like the heel stiffener: does it feel substantial like stiffeners from EG and StC? I find the Oct.tenth ones less solid, if that makes sense. Also, how long does the heel stiffener extend?

Also, how "stiff" are the shoes compared to Oct.tenth? And the arch support, is it more soft or substantial like StC?

 

[bernoulli]

@Psyko these are all excellent questions. I can't compare to StC, EG or Oct.tenth/Xibao, as I don't own any. What I am going to do is wear the shoes again tomorrow and focus on the areas you highlighted, and will let you know to the best of my abilities. I can compare it to AM, Vass, G&G, and Slimshoes, if that is helpful.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Any way to get closer shots of the waist?

I'm still trying to get an answer from a dealer of Xibao (I think) about what they mean by 'blind waist'. I took delivery of a pair where I can see every single (sloppy) stitch. There is nothing 'blind' about it, if blind means can't be seen.

Blind welt means the welt is covered by the outsole. You don't see the welt, hence "blind welt", not "blind welt stitching". I don't know exactly how your shoes look, but one sometimes can see the stitches if one look close, it's not uncommon with a small gap between the sole edge and the upper, and especially wouldn't expect the most perfect work in this area on shoes at the price they offer, basically among the cheapest blind welted waists you can find. Regarding stitching, when you blind welt you do sparse not that precise stitches, since they won't be noticeable unless looking really up close.