The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[aj2603]

Not a workwear boot person, no idea how good they’re though there is a review on stich down (and at least per IG says handlast , handwelt for start). $550 starting

Iron Boots (North America branch) (@ironboots_usa) • Instagram photos and videos

6,248 Followers, 268 Following, 575 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Iron Boots (North America branch) (@ironboots_usa)

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Iron Boots: Everything You Need to Know, From Leathers, to Sizing, to Ordering - Stitchdown

Iron Boots have been hanging out in the back of my boot-mind for quite some time now. About a year ago my buddy got a pair of their FLT split-toe boots in waxed bullhide, and couldn’t stop raving. But the ordering process—through Japanese site Leather Port—and a lack of sizing info kept it...

www.stitchdown.com

They r quite good for the price.. they make dress shoes too...

 

[Kivi D]

Dang, I just noticed JimJun raised their prices and lasted shoe trees are no longer included. Shame I'll have to dig deeper into my pockets...

 

[clee1982]

oh wow that was quick...

 

[DL120]

Quite possibly my favorite shoe right now. ACME N83 5 eye plain toe derby in mahogany shell.

 

[GrahamM]

Guys,

It's my 50th birthday soon and, as a treat, would really love a St. Crispin saddle derby (but can't justify the cost!!). https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/saddle-derby-half-brogue/

Would love in this colour (I know this is not a saddle derby):
https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/the-half-brogue-derby-3/#&gid=null&pid=5

How do you feel about the colour of this "Chelmer museum" from a well-known outfit in Singapore and making in China comes close to my really wanted colour? Maybe with some toe/heel burnishing?


Make more sense, as it's a sort of casual shoe, to go with something with a bit more texture?

Cheers

Graham

 

[Viatu]

Guys,

It's my 50th birthday soon and, as a treat, would really love a St. Crispin saddle derby (but can't justify the cost!!). https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/saddle-derby-half-brogue/

Would love in this colour (I know this is not a saddle derby):
https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/the-half-brogue-derby-3/#&gid=null&pid=5

How do you feel about the colour of this "Chelmer museum" from a well-known outfit in Singapore and making in China comes close to my really wanted colour? Maybe with some toe/heel burnishing?
View attachment 1617592

Make more sense, as it's a sort of casual shoe, to go with something with a bit more texture?

Cheers

Graham

Just send Yeossal a picture of the color shoe you want and they can work with you. They offer patina services in any color you tell them.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Guys,

It's my 50th birthday soon and, as a treat, would really love a St. Crispin saddle derby (but can't justify the cost!!). https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/saddle-derby-half-brogue/

Would love in this colour (I know this is not a saddle derby):
https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/the-half-brogue-derby-3/#&gid=null&pid=5

How do you feel about the colour of this "Chelmer museum" from a well-known outfit in Singapore and making in China comes close to my really wanted colour? Maybe with some toe/heel burnishing?
View attachment 1617592

Make more sense, as it's a sort of casual shoe, to go with something with a bit more texture?

Cheers

Graham

I’ve got the chelmer - It has more chocolate tones in it than the more red anf chestnut tones in the StC I think.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Guys,

It's my 50th birthday soon and, as a treat, would really love a St. Crispin saddle derby (but can't justify the cost!!). https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/saddle-derby-half-brogue/

Would love in this colour (I know this is not a saddle derby):
https://www.saintcrispins.com/product/the-half-brogue-derby-3/#&gid=null&pid=5

How do you feel about the colour of this "Chelmer museum" from a well-known outfit in Singapore and making in China comes close to my really wanted colour? Maybe with some toe/heel burnishing?
View attachment 1617592

Make more sense, as it's a sort of casual shoe, to go with something with a bit more texture?

Cheers

Graham

Any particular reason why you want crust calf (the link of your desired color)?
The reason I ask is because with an aniline you can burnish the toe and heel as you mentioned, whilst maintaining the rich appearance that aniline provides you.

If you want subtle surface interest or texture, how about a pingrain? I believe Sons of Henrey used the leather recently, but this one is the one that comes to mind.

Edward Green Halifax Chukka in Brandy Pin Grain Calf

Edward Green 'Halifax' Chukka Boots in Brandy Pin Grain calf, featuring hand stitched aprons. 202 Last / Standard E Width / Dainite Sole / Purple Lining & Insole Complimentary Shipping & Shoetrees for a limited time Kindly email us if you do not see your size available. This is our stock model...

gentlemensfootwear.com

You can easily pick up a variety of colors which you can then burnish as desired.

 

[GrahamM]

Just send Yeossal a picture of the color shoe you want and they can work with you. They offer patina services in any color you tell them.

Thanks.

Do they generally achieve a good likeness?

 

[GrahamM]

I’ve got the chelmer - It has more chocolate tones in it than the more red anf chestnut tones in the StC I think. View attachment 1617739 View attachment 1617740 View attachment 1617741 View attachment 1617742

Cheers....they're quite different in colour!

Mind me asking which of Yeossal's lasts do you think approaches the SC Classic last? GQ06, BN7?

 

[GrahamM]

Any particular reason why you want crust calf (the link of your desired color)?

None, I just like the colour and look of these StC shoes. Any reason to really not want crust calf? I've read it's more demanding in terms of maintenance and will crease quicker but then not appreciably more. More or less right?

The reason I ask is because with an aniline you can burnish the toe and heel as you mentioned, whilst maintaining the rich appearance that aniline provides you.

If you want subtle surface interest or texture, how about a pingrain? I believe Sons of Henrey used the leather recently, but this one is the one that comes to mind.


Cheers

 

[JohnMRobie]

Cheers....they're quite different in colour!

Mind me asking which of Yeossal's lasts do you think approaches the SC Classic last? GG06?

I’d reach out to @jacksomeister and their team for advice on the last and sizing. BN7 could maybe work? That being said I don’t think I’m familiar with a pattern from them that checks the box on what you had in mind so that would be worth checking on since it sounded like you had something quite specific you wanted.

Any particular reason why you want crust calf (the link of your desired color)?

None, I just like the colour and look of these StC shoes. Any reason to really not want crust calf? I've read it's more demanding in terms of maintenance and will crease quicker but then not appreciably more. More or less right?

The reason I ask is because with an aniline you can burnish the toe and heel as you mentioned, whilst maintaining the rich appearance that aniline provides you.

If you want subtle surface interest or texture, how about a pingrain? I believe Sons of Henrey used the leather recently, but this one is the one that comes to mind.


Cheers

He answered your question in the next paragraph down. Nothing “wrong” with crust - plenty of makers use it it’s just different and worth making sure it’s the look you want. If I’ve got the option for aniline I take it over crust. An option would be the weinheimer chestnut they stock. If you hit it with some creams you could probably get fairly close to your desired color I would think but I bet @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes has experience with that leather or has seen it.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I've read will crease quicker but then not appreciably more. More or less right?

Yes, that is basically it. The aniline is more steadfast and doesn't fade/patina. It just requires a bit more maintenance to retain its appearance.

If you don't mind color irregularity over time and a little more brushing, the types of colors that a maker can achieve are limitless. Meccariello and StCs use plenty of crust and both produce exquisite shoes.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I’d reach out to @jacksomeister and their team for advice on the last and sizing. BN7 could maybe work? That being said I don’t think I’m familiar with a pattern from them that checks the box on what you had in mind so that would be worth checking on since it sounded like you had something quite specific you wanted.
View attachment 1617952 View attachment 1617953 View attachment 1617954

He answered your question in the next paragraph down. Nothing “wrong” with crust - plenty of makers use it it’s just different and worth making sure it’s the look you want. If I’ve got the option for aniline I take it over crust. An option would be the weinheimer chestnut they stock. If you hit it with some creams you could probably get fairly close to your desired color I would think but I bet @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes has experience with that leather or has seen it.

I definitely have no reservations about paying more for aniline.

The patina that Shell develops over the years is something I really like, or what happens to vegetable tanned leathers. Burnishing, if it is subtle, also catches my eye. Not a fan of man made patinas.

 

[Viatu]

Thanks.

Do they generally achieve a good likeness?

I've never used their patina services because I normally don't go for patina finishes on my shoes. But, I know they offer those services and their customer service is excellent in my opinion. So, I think they'd do a great job. Furthermore, Yeossal will even create a very similar shoe to the Saint Crispin shoe you like if you can get others to go in on a group order with you. I know because I approached them about creating a Saint Crispin like French Norwegian Derby.