The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[JohnMRobie]

Here's the instagram. Lots of patinas and alligator. https://www.instagram.com/graziat_taipei/ They look nice but probably not for me. I suppose if you were looking for a HW option in lieu of Berluti or Corthay at a better price point it could be a winner.

 

[compuccesory]

I wonder if any of the small batch Chinese makers make shoes specifically for Asian feet (well I'm sure they do but would they sell me one I guess) ? As I read more I see that the reason why most western shoes fit me poorly is because my narrow heels are apparently an Asian feature, and most shoes in my size (9D-9E) have heel cups that are much too big. Some of the more unusual Italian lasts (i.e. Buttero) seem to fit OK if I do some weird sizing up/down, but maybe I should have just been buying Asian specific shoes all this time?

 

[clee1982]

Here's the instagram. Lots of patinas and alligator. https://www.instagram.com/graziat_taipei/ They look nice but probably not for me. I suppose if you were looking for a HW option in lieu of Berluti or Corthay at a better price point it could be a winner.

nutcracker just confirmed Graziat Is Xibao but with different leather source and patina done in Taipei I thought

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Here's the instagram. Lots of patinas and alligator. https://www.instagram.com/graziat_taipei/ They look nice but probably not for me. I suppose if you were looking for a HW option in lieu of Berluti or Corthay at a better price point it could be a winner.

Definitely looks like a low cost alternative to Berluti. Might be a viable option for those wanting the look of a high end Patina'd shoe without the associated high cost.

 

[clee1982]

I wonder if any of the small batch Chinese makers make shoes specifically for Asian feet (well I'm sure they do but would they sell me one I guess) ? As I read more I see that the reason why most western shoes fit me poorly is because my narrow heels are apparently an Asian feature, and most shoes in my size (9D-9E) have heel cups that are much too big. Some of the more unusual Italian lasts (i.e. Buttero) seem to fit OK if I do some weird sizing up/down, but maybe I should have just been buying Asian specific shoes all this time?

I think so, when I look for Asian maker (japan/China) toebox is usually less an issue (thus usually don’t have to up width then end up with loose heel). Also feels like at least some of the Italian are wider and have higher instep than English.

so all I can say is find a store and try a ton...

 

[JohnMRobie]

Definitely looks like a low cost alternative to Berluti. Might be a viable option for those wanting the look of a high end Patina'd shoe without the associated high cost.

Might even have sharper lines than Berluti. They also seem to really like the spade sole. Berluti pic from @j ingevaldsson's blog. Berluti wholecut vs Graziat from their IG for the guys not on there.

 

[acapaca]

Behold the leather thread and all 200+ pages of posts. https://www.styleforum.net/threads/leather-quality-and-properties.354137/

Nice! I had no idea. Now I guess I'll have to block off another few dozen hours. The bespoke shoe thread sure stole enough on its own...

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Might even have sharper lines than Berluti. They also seem to really like the spade sole. Berluti pic from @j ingevaldsson's blog. Berluti wholecut vs Graziat from their IG for the guys not on there. View attachment 1461417 View attachment 1461418 View attachment 1461419

To each his/her own, but a patina'd shoe (especially that much of a patina) is just confusing to me. I have problems with one color. Add more than one color and I'm disoriented.

 

[JohnMRobie]

To each his/her own, but a patina'd shoe (especially that much of a patina) is just confusing to me. I have problems with one color. Add more than one color and I'm disoriented.

I can see the colors and I can appreciate the skill - I just don't know how I would pair it with an actual outfit without botching it and ending up looking like a clown. I can barely figure out burgundy and different shades of brown which probably explains why about 75% of my shoes are black.

 

[clee1982]

Yea that much patina definitely not for me, I remember back when I first saw Berluti (Olga wholecut? 2007?). I was like did they carve it out of tree?

 

[nutcracker]

Might even have sharper lines than Berluti. They also seem to really like the spade sole. Berluti pic from @j ingevaldsson's blog. Berluti wholecut vs Graziat from their IG for the guys not on there. View attachment 1461417 View attachment 1461418 View attachment 1461419

The bottom two pics are actually from the Trunk Show we did this past May at the Shoe Bar that we also operate (El Gato (ig: elgato_tw)

I had a chance to have a side by side comparison with those particular Graziat version of Alessandro (called “Shallow”) and the real Aldessandro. In terms of making, really no comparison (Hand-lasted and hand bottomed vs machine made blake). Imitation (maybe 80% haha) but handmade? Vs Authentic but machine made? Price wise Graziat/Xibao is less than half of the Berluti. Thats a dilemma that we increasingly have to face nowadays lolol

 

[JohnMRobie]

The bottom two pics are actually from the Trunk Show we did this past May at the Shoe Bar that we own (El Gato (ig: elgato_tw)

I had a chance to have a side by side comparison with those particular Graziat version of Alessandro (called “Shallow”) and the real Aldessandro. In terms of making, really no comparison (Hand-lasted and hand bottomed vs machine made blake). Imitation (maybe 80% haha) but handmade? Vs Authentic but machine made? Price wise Graziat/Xibao is less than half of the Berluti. Thats a dilemma that we increasingly have to face nowadays lolol

Yeah not intended as a knock. I think I mentioned earlier if someone was looking for a handwelted alternative with that styling and patina work at a much better price point it would be a great option.

 

[nutcracker]

Yeah not intended as a knock. I think I mentioned earlier if someone was looking for a handwelted alternative with that styling and patina work at a much better price point it would be a great option.

Totally Agree. Berluti is a big enough company to be able to constantly market its heritage (and perceived prestige) while expanding its huge offering. They may even flex their muscle and copyright the 3 eyelet wholecut design, just like what I heard they did for the term ‘Patina’. For a much smaller firms of mass made shoes, having a superior copycat of their signature products would be quite worrisome to say the least...

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Totally Agree. Berluti is a big enough company to be able to constantly market its heritage (and perceived prestige) while expanding its huge offering. They may even flex their muscle and copyright the 3 eyelet wholecut design, just like what I heard they did for the term ‘Patina’. For a much smaller firms of mass made shoes, having a superior copycat of their signature products would be quite worrisome to say the least...

Worrisome would be an understatement.

Thinking logically and being fiscally responsible, why wouldn't you pay for a shoe that exhibits similar aesthetic characteristics, superior construction, literally the same leather, at half the cost (perhaps more).
If you play your cards right and get in good with the proprietor selling the shoes (meaning some kind of SF discount), you can walk away with 3 pairs of Graziat shoes versus one pair of Berlutis.

Worrisome might not be the proper word. How about two words, utterly terrifying. ?

 

[boot_owl]

I wonder if any of the small batch Chinese makers make shoes specifically for Asian feet (well I'm sure they do but would they sell me one I guess) ? As I read more I see that the reason why most western shoes fit me poorly is because my narrow heels are apparently an Asian feature, and most shoes in my size (9D-9E) have heel cups that are much too big. Some of the more unusual Italian lasts (i.e. Buttero) seem to fit OK if I do some weird sizing up/down, but maybe I should have just been buying Asian specific shoes all this time?

Not to toot my own horn overly, but Mattina lasts were originally designed with Chinese feet in mind, with a more generous forefoot and narrower heel.