The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[Viatu]

My intention wasn't to speculate on whether they are the same maker, which I didn't think they were. It was more my cheapo tendencies that wanted to show that one could get similar aesthetics to the Acme pair for a more 'reasonable' price.

I might just end up splurging on the Acme pair, after all, though if the Jimjun's are this similar I might not...

I'm with you. I'll take a cheaper option over Acme especially since Jimjun's and Acme's split toe derbies look so similar. Thanks for the pictures. Both shoes are beautiful.

 

[clee1982]

I know. The SoH OT MTO page lists the models available, and it doesn’t seem to include all that I’ve seen from Xibao/OT/Yeossal.

I think it's one of those not everything is ready online but if you saw a picture on wechat and you email Tom it's available kind of thing

 

[clee1982]

though not sure how it's perceived if you take a Yeossal model and shows to Tom then ask OT to make..., i.e. not sure if for business reason Xibao would make certain things only available for Yeossal etc. (or whoever had that model first)

 

[j ingevaldsson]

So what are the advantages of Jimjuns handwelting option compared to the advanced GYW construction (which Meccarillio also offers)?

Asked another way: What will stitching the insole to the welt by hand allow the maker to improve on, compared to stitching the insole and welt by machine?

1. The holdfast is thinner and not as strong as when you do a holdfast for hand welting.
2. The chain stitch that the Goodyear machine does is a relatively weak seam compared to the lock stitch enhanced by the wax thread of hand welting.
3. You still get a similar large cavity as on gemmed Goodyear, not the much thinner hollow space that a hand welted shoe has.

 

[wklq76a]

I think it's one of those not everything is ready online but if you saw a picture on wechat and you email Tom it's available kind of thing

Hmm...I‘m not sure that’s the case. In the SoH thread somebody asked what boot models are available for the no-MTO fee special and Tom explicitly laid out what he had. That makes me think it’s not a free-for-all.

I guess I can reach out myself for the final word. Thx

 

[jischwar]

Hmm...I‘m not sure that’s the case. In the SoH thread somebody asked what boot models are available for the no-MTO fee special and Tom explicitly laid out what he had. That makes me think it’s not a free-for-all.

I guess I can reach out myself for the final word. Thx

Yes, that was me. Only 3 models and now I'm a little hesitant given all of the sizing issues I've been reading through

 

[wklq76a]

Yes, that was me. Only 3 models and now I'm a little hesitant given all of the sizing issues I've been reading through

Yup, that's exactly my hesitation as well. Best I can gather is that in general, one should probably go 1.5 sizes down from US Brannock. I suppose the test pair offered via TaoBao could be helpful but then we risk communication issues.

 

[clee1982]

why don't you guys do Yeossal instead then, doesn't Yeossal already start a last modification service?

 

[clee1982]

I'm the high instep/need more accommodating toe crowd, so it was smooth sailing for me...

 

[Jmr928]

why don't you guys do Yeossal instead then, doesn't Yeossal already start a last modification service?

They do - I'm doing a remake and the last modification up-charge was super minimal.

 

[boot_owl]

1. The holdfast is thinner and not as strong as when you do a holdfast for hand welting.
2. The chain stitch that the Goodyear machine does is a relatively weak seam compared to the lock stitch enhanced by the wax thread of hand welting.
3. You still get a similar large cavity as on gemmed Goodyear, not the much thinner hollow space that a hand welted shoe has.

Btw the handstitch that is used for handwelting is a saddle stitch, the GYW machine (and outsole stitchers) do a lock stitch which is weaker.

Apart from the wax, the saddle stitch is stronger because the needle passes through to the opposite side of the leather with each stitch, effectively creating 2 isolated lines of stitching while the lock stitch never makes it all the way through. Good diagram here:

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Btw the handstitch that is used for handwelting is a saddle stitch, the GYW machine (and outsole stitchers) do a lock stitch which is weaker.

Apart from the wax, the saddle stitch is stronger because the needle passes through to the opposite side of the leather with each stitch, effectively creating 2 isolated lines of stitching while the lock stitch never makes it all the way through. Good diagram here:

View attachment 1508960

Yeah, I'm so used to saying something like "a type of lock stitch" when explaining saddle stitching, since few knows what the latter is, but when you say it's a lock stitch that has every stitch locked by itself people understand the pro.

 

[wklq76a]

why don't you guys do Yeossal instead then, doesn't Yeossal already start a last modification service?

I'm in the higher instep crowd as well. Though, I'm generally hesitant to request a last modification in the absence of an identified issue.

@Jmr928 How is Yeossal with online sizing guidance? Do you feel like they're doing a good job dialing you in?

 

[clee1982]

I'm in the higher instep crowd as well. Though, I'm generally hesitant to request a last modification in the absence of an identified issue.

@Jmr928 How is Yeossal with online sizing guidance? Do you feel like they're doing a good job dialing you in?

do you have AM?

 

[Jmr928]

I'm in the higher instep crowd as well. Though, I'm generally hesitant to request a last modification in the absence of an identified issue.

@Jmr928 How is Yeossal with online sizing guidance? Do you feel like they're doing a good job dialing you in?

We missed on my first try mainly with regards to instep but I've got a fairly tough to fit foot. Having them in hand and being able to do photos and video of their shoes on my actual foot to make adjustments I'm optimistic about the remake process. FWIW their recommendation on the next order is stay 1 size down from my US brannock but lower the instep.