• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Please visit ou very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are posted, including the latest, updated, very comprehensive, Styleforum Black Friday Sales List

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

Kangnamstyles

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
691
Reaction score
1,291
I am sure that there are countless reasons for not doing this "he went to work, sent me progress photos and how he changed it." Saying that, progess pictures (regardless of maker) is so helpful. The pictures ensure your commission is correct. It provides reassurances that your shoes are being worked on. You are essentially provided a time table which illicits excitement (because you know soon you would wear the shoes). Sadly, very few partake in that action 🤷🏻‍♂️.

Anyways, that is a phenomenal price, as well as a quick turnaround time. Considering you were happy with the results and he completed all your requests, sounds like he should be on people's radars 👏🏻.
Thanks. Completely agreed.

Simon from Wayman sent me progress photos as well (pre lasting, after lasting, pre patina, after patina). One other thing that can be a potential cause for misunderstanding the patina request, is the digital photo and device screen qualities. What I'm seeing/sending from my iPhone 11 pro may be coming across as a very different shade of blue on their side of the screen.

Remember the whole dress color debate from 2015? (black and blue or is it white and gold)

Hancore does more than just shoes too FYI (bags, sneakers, jackets, furniture, etc.) so pricing will vary based on how much work needs to be done. He's based in Brooklyn for those of you in NYC.

I love working with/supporting people like Greg, Simon, Tom, Kostas, Emil, and the folks at Yeossal. They somehow have captured the unicorn of talent, business acumen, responsive customer service, and above all, humility/integrity.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2017
Messages
2,852
Reaction score
4,513
Thanks. Completely agreed.

Simon from Wayman sent me progress photos as well (pre lasting, after lasting, pre patina, after patina). One other thing that can be a potential cause for misunderstanding the patina request, is the digital photo and device screen qualities. What I'm seeing/sending from my iPhone 11 pro may be coming across as a very different shade of blue on their side of the screen.

Remember the whole dress color debate from 2015? (black and blue or is it white and gold)

Hancore does more than just shoes too FYI (bags, sneakers, jackets, furniture, etc.) so pricing will vary based on how much work needs to be done. He's based in Brooklyn for those of you in NYC.

I love working with/supporting people like Greg, Simon, Tom, Kostas, Emil, and the folks at Yeossal. They somehow have captured the unicorn of talent, business acumen, responsive customer service, and above all, humility/integrity.
Typically that's the advantages of engaging in business with small businesses. The customer service, responsiveness to customer's needs, some personalization (if possible).
As important is access. It is great being able to communicate directly with the purveyors of the products of interest.

I think I met him once or twice along with Chris (Dillon) when I was over at Leffot. Great set of guys. They asked if I wanted something done, and I had to deliver the bad news that the only patina I put on my shoes is the one that develops from raindroplets.

Aren't you based in D.C.? Long way to go for patina classes.
 

Kangnamstyles

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
691
Reaction score
1,291
Typically that's the advantages of engaging in business with small businesses. The customer service, responsiveness to customer's needs, some personalization (if possible).
As important is access. It is great being able to communicate directly with the purveyors of the products of interest.

I think I met him once or twice along with Chris (Dillon) when I was over at Leffot. Great set of guys. They asked if I wanted something done, and I had to deliver the bad news that the only patina I put on my shoes is the one that develops from raindroplets.

Aren't you based in D.C.? Long way to go for patina classes.
ah Chris! I want to meet him too one day. He trained with DSC awhile ago. They were teaming up to teach the patina classes in June over a weekend iirc. But then corona happened.

Yeah it would be a weekend trip if I did attend in the future. Wife has been wanting to go visit for a long time. I’ve heard they might make it online though, so that might be another more affordable/time saving option
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
19,954
Reaction score
6,362
I think it's actually pretty typical for chinese maker to send "progress photo" as well as "final product" before it's out the door, but given you're not dealing with the maker themselves, and potential translation issue guess that's not likely to happen.

p.s. yea Hancore (Greg Park) is based in NYC, so if I want anything darken might just go with him, but he would probably find my request "boring" (hi got this medium brown shoe can you make it dark brown with toe burnishing...). Also if it's not crust, I guess it's just another dye over (with some striping down in any case) not sure how the long term keep would work?
 

Kangnamstyles

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
691
Reaction score
1,291
I think it's actually pretty typical for chinese maker to send "progress photo" as well as "final product" before it's out the door, but given you're not dealing with the maker themselves, and potential translation issue guess that's not likely to happen.

p.s. yea Hancore (Greg Park) is based in NYC, so if I want anything darken might just go with him, but he would probably find my request "boring" (hi got this medium brown shoe can you make it dark brown with toe burnishing...). Also if it's not crust, I guess it's just another dye over (with some striping down in any case) not sure how the long term keep would work?
From Hancore on care.

For the OT lazyman, you should use gray cream for the grey areas, and saphir blue or purple cream for the purple areas. And then burgundy or blue Saphir pate de luxe depending on what color you want to highlight. You can also use gray wax to polish as well.

For Winson JFJ Baker russain grain, use universal cream (leather milk) to clean the leather and then medium tobacco cream to hydrate.
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
19,954
Reaction score
6,362
that's quite an instruction, I'm not sure if I can follow to the tee every time..., but glad it's well thought out
 

Kangnamstyles

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
691
Reaction score
1,291
Part 2. The different lasts. I think both Yeossal and OT have photos and descriptions for their lasts but iirc it’s only a two dimensional top down view.

I’ve taken a bunch of photos of the lasted shoe trees to hopefully provide a multi angle view that better illustrates the differences.

I wear UK7.5/41 for Yeossal shoes (width can change by last). I wear UK7.5 Huang for OT.

Top down view L to R: YC3, OT Huang, YRB wide, Wayman, SG65, and YC8

05C505DD-96BF-4DA1-A5FD-2E394DB4142F.jpeg

Profile view of the same trees.

A6E5AC46-47A0-4F5C-BF78-4B1FABAA135B.jpeg

Top down view from the front.
7D8D097F-4790-4D94-9604-09370BB1CA96.jpeg

Directly from the front.
77F7AAE2-9AC0-4558-A5B9-71D6B56BA782.jpeg

Closer look at the instep comparisons.
7766F94A-36C4-4583-9830-60802E4CA523.jpeg

Removed the Waymans as it is a personal last and can't really be compared to the YEOT RTW lasts.
Top down view L to R: YC8, SG65, YRB wide, OT Huang, YC3
F1BE1E4C-19B6-4C11-9155-90E39B25DCE3.jpeg

Profile view gives a better view of the toe shapes.
A626C2D3-EA77-480D-9B92-18E99A15BC76.jpeg

Top down view from behind
FE4A1F88-B554-4C18-AB1A-F9E744352493.jpeg

YC8 vs SG65.
373C4865-076A-4B2A-978D-FEC65E1D9DB6.jpeg
453F89B6-ECC8-405E-82A5-BCC97EEBD466.jpeg

SG65 vs. YRB wide
46BFCF52-8031-44CE-9B1D-E1244299F208.jpeg

YC3 vs YC8
963FBDCB-4F48-4A77-8CCF-AC8DD25A3F96.jpeg45BD6F6B-8F21-4DB4-A802-CA65C9E73BD2.jpeg

SG65 vs Huang
2AF66174-7757-4CFD-9EAD-830040C96502.jpeg

Huang vs YRB wide
7EE4B974-D70B-42B2-A5EE-88DEA788912A.jpeg

Just in case you forgot what the shoes looked like.
129A674D-E74E-4C3D-A15F-95E9EF22851C.jpeg
 

Attachments

Kangnamstyles

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2017
Messages
691
Reaction score
1,291
OT Huang looks really close to YC3, is YC8 narrower? SG65 definitely looks narrower
I would agree that the Huang and YC3 are similar but the Huang feels narrower. Especially in the heel, I didn’t have any slip. The Huang felt very similar to how my Wayman mtm felt.

I wouldn’t put too much weight into the yc8 last because they are reworking it now. The yc3 and yc8 are their generous lasts. They are very similar fit wise but I think the yc8 is a hair narrower but longer.

yes the SG65 is probably their most narrow last.
 

saurabh

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
1,795
Reaction score
6,090
Cross post from the Yeossal thread.
Just took delivery of the Yeossal - Thomson shoes (SpTD) and following are the specs:
Last: YC3 with 3 mm reduced instep.
Leather: Chestnut Utah (Hass Utah Grain Leather)
Size: 8UK/42
Sole: Leather (Black/Natural Color) + Metal Toe tips
Sole Shape: Spade
Heel: Tapered
Trees: Lasted shoes trees (Double Barrel Spring).
Extra: slight burnishing and shine on Toe/heel

Please Note pictures posted below are taken inside so they may look slightly darker than when taken outside.

D3DDA4F8-9A81-44A3-B60A-52D804F123BB.jpeg

4BCC39C8-C7B3-45BE-86AA-6CED1ACE9925.jpeg
94EBA468-F903-429F-B188-67E79CD2453A.jpeg
18A6193F-3756-4002-A54C-68927483E9EC.jpeg
CDF36C3F-EE4C-4D36-9A4E-50142E659BF7.jpeg
C16533AB-861C-4AAB-B377-8EDC71A88B05.jpeg
522D97A9-A565-47D5-82C0-B6B3C629473D.jpeg
F7689D5C-1069-4F6C-A75B-456A08046C32.jpeg
56C831F2-B0B5-4DD5-BB87-88087B5C73DB.jpeg
C8E7FC82-3999-4050-9C4B-465FD94AD5EB.jpeg
6E322242-6FE4-4EED-ADB2-CD84D95F4701.jpeg
34E5F6B7-3C29-4EC1-9D74-C90B1AD33298.jpeg
B373C696-1E54-40D6-AC45-22E122DB2020.jpeg
C5B61CDF-7380-42D7-89D5-4F874DE850C5.jpeg
55D4B033-6D79-470A-B10A-B597BEA6F292.jpeg
BAE6D893-9D82-46AF-A989-73630A217191.jpeg


My main concern was the fit and they fit perfect.
Good enough room in toe area and very good fit in length/heel/instep areas.

75CB5D8B-2D41-4D66-81BD-08C9129785F7.jpeg

32932034-2A54-4854-BDA4-8E5D8CB8353D.jpeg


I am glad i didn't order the SG65 last as that would have been tight for the toes for sure as i feel the toe area is very tapered on that last and i think YC3 last is better suited for SpTD.
The only negative thing i can say for this order is the burnishing was done darker than what i had asked for.
After wearing for few minutes i feel i am fine with that burnishing and can use some Saphir Reno. conditioner to lighten a bit in future. Overall i am very happy with the shoes and i highly recommend Yeossal Team and Jackson.
These Guys are fantastic !!
I will post more comparison pictures with EG SpTD and G&G SpTD as well sometime soon :)
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Most Interesting Fashion Collaboration of 2020

  • JW Anderson x Uniqlo

  • Nigo x Virgil Abloh

  • Converse x Midnight Studios

  • Rick Owens x Champion

  • Barbour x Engineered Garments

  • Adidas x Bed JW Ford

  • Jordan Brand x Dior

  • Billie Eilish x Takashi Murakami

  • Lego x Levi's


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
449,196
Messages
9,724,074
Members
202,951
Latest member
Mundrugstore
Top