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The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

j ingevaldsson

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Does the MTM come with a substantial fee or your standard ~20%?
MTO is about $150-200 extra, MTM starts with the same upcharge on top of that then I believe, but then depending on how big changes needed might be more, they hadn’t fully settled the final price lists when I ordered a while back.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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MTO is about $150-200 extra, MTM starts with the same upcharge on top of that then I believe, but then depending on how big changes needed might be more, they hadn’t fully settled the final price lists when I ordered a while back.
Hopefully the total costs were disclosed prior to final purchase. I'm sure you wouldn't appreciate "surprises" on your invoice.
 

Encore

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Claims is one thing (though would say too many say they have things “exactly made as bespoke” and offered as RTW, again MTO there’s many, but not RTW), but actual specs is another thing 😊



Alright, just surprised it wasn’t specified on his website where he goes through the specs. But can you buy Aurum RTW? If so, then that would be only one, spec wise, on same level for RTW that I know of.
Heck no, you can't buy Aurum RTW 😂. Good luck receiving them within a year as well haha.
AM did sell Aurum RTW before, but more as a one off I think. I don't think he will do it again.
 

BomTrady

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IMO, does not merit the purchase at that price for cemented shoes. Of course, this is just my opinion and should not discourage those interested in purchasing it.

The HW, on the other hand, seems a sound purchase decision. Sound for those wanting a pointy shoe 😂.

You alluded to a possible adjustment of the last. With your shoe industry ways, a strongly worded suggestion slipped under the table might do the trick 😎.
I was under the impression that loafers are glued, sometimes at least, in order to provide high levels of flexibility and lightness. Back when I didn't know the differences, I bought quite a few cemented Ferragamo shoes that are still in very good condition - some more than 15 years old; absolutely no signs of coming apart or anything and I take them on vacation with me, wear them on week end errands and rough them up pretty darn good.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I was under the impression that loafers are glued, sometimes at least, in order to provide high levels of flexibility and lightness. Back when I didn't know the differences, I bought quite a few cemented Ferragamo shoes that are still in very good condition - some more than 15 years old; absolutely no signs of coming apart or anything and I take them on vacation with me, wear them on week end errands and rough them up pretty darn good.
They definitely can be cemented. Typically if it is a rubbery sole, you can find this method employed. Considering that, I would at minimum like a Blake construction for a loafer. In fact, I prefer it due to its flexibility. Ideally you'd want a HW, but that's going to raise the price substantially.
 

BomTrady

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They definitely can be cemented. Typically if it is a rubbery sole, you can find this method employed. Considering that, I would at minimum like a Blake construction for a loafer. In fact, I prefer it due to its flexibility. Ideally you'd want a HW, but that's going to raise the price substantially.
Thank you for this. But all else equal, wouldn't a cemented shoe be lighter than a HW one or even a Blake, for that matter?
 

Encore

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Letting go my Black single monk from XiBao. Worn twice. I just don't wear black shoes too much.
For more details please see
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Thank you for this. But all else equal, wouldn't a cemented shoe be lighter than a HW one or even a Blake, for that matter?
Well I guess if we are talking bare minimum here and from a perspective of leather components within the shoe I guess you can place them as such..
Cement
Bologna (should weigh the same as Blake but more comfortable due to stitching placement so I'll take the liberty of making it lighter 😊)
Blake
Blake rapid
HW (don't be surprised if this would be under Blake in terms of weight)
GYW
 
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BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Thank you for this. But all else equal, wouldn't a cemented shoe be lighter than a HW one or even a Blake, for that matter?
Honestly though, if you get yourself an unstructured Blake or Bologna pair of shoes (like a suede venetian-style moccasin loafer) I doubt the cemented shoes would then be lighter. You'd be surprised at the amount of flexibility you can get on a pair of Blakes.
 

j ingevaldsson

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^^^ Yeah that’s the thing, if a bespoke workshop wants to make a lightweight flexible shoe (same with Acme’s quarter lined light loafers), there’s only cement construction to go to. You don’t buy an expensive McKay machine and have that take up shitloads of space for a limited amount of pairs done this way. Same reason most bespoke shoemakers only cement on rubber soles (they are still hand welted, but no sole stitch), you can’t stitch those by hand, and no reason to buy a Rapid machine for only a few pairs a year.
 

BomTrady

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Letting go my Black single monk from XiBao. Worn twice. I just don't wear black shoes too much.
For more details please see
They are gorgeous! Ouch!
 

Wild Strawberry Rabbit

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I've honestly never seen so many beautiful shoes on one thread in my entire life!
I agree lot of beautiful shoes in this thread although my post is a little off topic since Kielman is Polish, not Chinese maker ;) The design of these loafers was client’s idea. He also ordered two more pairs of these loafers but HW not cemented and in different materials. One brown/blue suede and one „heavier” version for Autumn/Winter. All three pairs are really beautiful IMO.


 
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