The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[kid1002]

Looks good, I forgot this is OT with last modification?

No. This is a pair of ready-to-wear from another Chinese shoe brand called Badia.

Badia’s founder won 3rd place in this year’s shoemaking championship.

 

[prof.contingency]

Hi guys, just a reminder that ACME Shoemaker, Yearn Shoemaker, Bridlen, and a number of other brands will be at the New York trunk show organised by The Shoe Snob, Shoe Gazing, and Kirby Allison:


A few of the team from Arterton will also be there to support our three brands, and we hope to see many of you there.

 

[clee1982]

nice!

 

[clee1982]

No. This is a pair of ready-to-wear from another Chinese shoe brand called Badia.

Badia’s founder won 3rd place in this year’s shoemaking championship.

do they have website or just wechat?

 

[kid1002]

do they have website or just wechat?

They operate via their Taobao store. I think they have a small workshop in Qingdao, too. I had my size confirmed in Shanghai since Roiluxe also stock their products.

 

[Pascal1980]

Hello everybody,

how do the Chinese shoes compare in their quality to the Spanish shoemakes (Carmina, TLB Mallorca Artista line) and the English ones (Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Alfred Seargant and above)?

ACME looked good at Aerterton in London, last week. Yearn appears to be comparable to Carmina and TLB Mallorca Artista line, with the pricing being comparable.

What is your experience with Asien made goodyear-welted shoes?

Enjoy your sunday and best regards

Pascal

 

[kid1002]

Hello everybody,

how do the Chinese shoes compare in their quality to the Spanish shoemakes (Carmina, TLB Mallorca Artista line) and the English ones (Crockett & Jones, Cheaney, Alfred Seargant and above)?

ACME looked good at Aerterton in London, last week. Yearn appears to be comparable to Carmina and TLB Mallorca Artista line, with the pricing being comparable.

What is your experience with Asien made goodyear-welted shoes?

Enjoy your sunday and best regards

Pascal

Most of the stuff you see in this thread should be comparable to Crockett and Cheaney in make if not Crockett Handgrade and Cheaney Imperial.

Acme should be comparable to Gaziano & Girling in my honest opinion.

Never tried Yearn before.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

We have a High End Chinese Shoe Thread, so how about we start a Low End Chinese Shoe Thread.

 

[Pascal1980]

We have a High End Chinese Shoe Thread, so how about we start a Low End Chinese Shoe Thread.

Hello Son of Saphir,

my question was not meant to be derogatory, but informative. The shoes I held in my hand in London looked really nice. I do not know, however, which leathers they use, what the shoes look inside, and how good the leather adapts to ones foot. Others here in the forum have made the experience of wearing those shoes already.

Best regards

Pascal

 

[Pascal1980]

Most of the stuff you see in this thread should be comparable to Crockett and Cheaney in make if not Crockett Handgrade and Cheaney Imperial.

Acme should be comparable to Gaziano & Girling in my honest opinion.

Never tried Yearn before.

Thanks kid1002,

the ACME chelsea boot looked really good when I held it in my hand in London.

Best regards

Pascal

 

[wjocon]

Would definitely love to know more / hear about some of the mid range offerings from china. I'm waiting for two pairs from some middle/low price range offerings (Oct Tenth mainline & Gulun handwelt) to arrive so i can compare them against the higher end stuff. A lot of the Chinese brands don't seem to get much attention internationally but Fupei does some great articles on Wiracetas, Badia, and others.

 

[kid1002]

Alright so I just came back from Oct Tenth's first ever offline MTM trunk show, hosted at Roiluxe Shanghai.

A pair of beautiful Balmoral Oxfords immediately caught my attention when I first walked into the store, but more on that later.

View attachment 2233827

I would say I went into the event well prepared, bringing with me moodboard print-outs I created using pictures of shoes I have seen and liked.

I knew I wanted to leave with two pairs of custom shoes, and I was even more sure I wanted one pair to be loafers.

View attachment 2233843

Roiluxe put on display an entire wall of Oct Tenth RTW shoes, some newly brought to the store by the Oct Tenth team to stock and some to restock.

A selection of special models were placed on a sofa to showcase various designs customers could draw from as inspirations.

View attachment 2233839 View attachment 2233841

There was a decent amount of leathers customers could choose from. If my memory serves right, the range included standard calfskin, custom patinaed calfskin, hatchgrain, museum calf, reverse suede, pigskin, and more.

View attachment 2233847 View attachment 2233849
View attachment 2233851

My first commission was for a pair of penny loafers in dark brown Utah.

I asked for the pattern to be based on their Moliere penny loafer but to made in their An last (instead of the standard Pu last).

The last maker, Tang, noted down my special requests and took my measurements. I ended up having a total of 5 positions on my feet that needed last adjustments.

View attachment 2233855 View attachment 2233853​

While contemplating what my second pair of shoes should be, Tang casually mentioned to me about a pair of fully handmade Oxfords they have just completed ahead of this trunk show.

Needless to say he piqued my interest.

I thought I went into the event educated of all Oct Tenth's capabilities as a brand, so I definitely wasn't prepared for this -- for the first time ever, Oct Tenth will be offering full handmade as an option, placing this option above their Metropolis line.

In theory, Oct Tenth's fully handmade option will be very similar to what Gaziano & Girling is offering as G&G's Optimum option, whereby the shoes will be hand lasted, hand welted, have handmade sole stitch, hand-built heel and so on based on pre-existing lasts.

In practice, these handmade shoes are truly beautiful and clearly different from everything else in the trunk show.

This pair of O last Balmoral Oxfords has sleeker lines, tighter construction, and more detailed stitching all around the board in comparison to other Oct Tenth shoes.

View attachment 2233845

Tang claimed that the SPI (stitch per inch) on their fully handmade shoes is 12. That is higher than G&G Optimum's 10 SPI. Whether or not stitch density is important to you will be up to you to judge.

I left the trunk show commissioning for my second pair of shoes to be fully handmade. There was a fair upcharge for this option.

View attachment 2233865

Oct Tenth will be making for me a pair of five-eyelet derbies in grey-brown museum calf, designed based on their Ferguson model.

Turnaround time should be 2~3 months, and I will be documenting my journey here as well...

Fitting shoes for my loafers in An last.

Right foot could have some more space in the instep, but otherwise Oct Tenth nailed it.

 

[stifler]

Hi guys, just a reminder that ACME Shoemaker, Yearn Shoemaker, Bridlen, and a number of other brands will be at the New York trunk show organised by The Shoe Snob, Shoe Gazing, and Kirby Allison:
View attachment 2241511

A few of the team from Arterton will also be there to support our three brands, and we hope to see many of you there.

Any plans to come to Chicago?

 

[prof.contingency]

Any plans to come to Chicago?

Hi, unfortunately, there's no current plans to come to Chicago, but we hope to start regular USA trunk shows in major cities with a few of our tailoring partners next year. We will be able to size and fit at these trunk shows.

 

[ThomasR]

My latest pair of Oct Tenth OT01 in J&FJ Baker Black Russian calf With their older sisters in J&FJ Russian calf.
The fit is better in the black pair as the instep was reduced and size also reduced by a quarter.