The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[jischwar]

Definitely should be wearing these more

 

[kid1002]

Completed MTO project with Mattina.

'Elgar' black brogued oxfords in N-last made of black suede.

 

[kid1002]

Try-on shoes round 2. Great fit all around. No gaping as well.
Need to adjust strap points but that should be an easy fix.

Timeline:
3/27 - MTO commissioned
4/12 - Received try-on shoes
4/15 - Consultation with cobbler via WeChat
4/26 - Received try-on shoes round 2

I've just received my shoes last Thursday. Been wearing them for a couple of days now and I couldn't be happier.

They fit great. Snug but not a tight fit. Feels great for my flat feet with high instep.

Timeline:
3/27 - MTO commissioned
4/12 - Received try-on shoes
4/15 - Consultation with cobbler via WeChat
4/26 - Received try-on shoes round 2
5/23 - Received completed shoes

These are Oct Tenth's take on single monks made in dark brown Janus suede. The Huang last with soft chiseled toe doesn't look so chiseled when in motion, really. I am wearing here with dark washed denim for some punk vibes.

 

[Notch]

Thought I'd chime in real quick. My name is Tom, I am the owner of Sons of Henrey and Vekla footwear.

Regarding my relationship with OT, this is actually quite simple. I used to be a proxy/agent for Vass shoes, and because of my experience there the people behind OT asked me to be their international sales agent. This was about 3 years ago. I had the chance then to help shape part of the offering, and advise on what sizing system to use etc. But I do not own OT or a part of it.

The reason why I decided to take on this challenge is because I believe they represent the highest value in the hand welted shoe market today. That has always been my main goal: to bring true value to the customer.

I will be the first to admit that things have been hectic and somewhat difficult since quite some time now. I am trying to deal with a family emergency that has drained out my energy. Things are improving now and I am looking at what to do with Sons of Henrey, and get back on track with OT.

Feel free to contact me by PM or email at [email protected]

 

[prof.contingency]

We are very pleased to announce that Arterton will now sell ACME Shoemaker in the UK -- both online and in-store.





In our showroom, we have a select number of display styles in store. But we also have a full set of trial fitting shoes. Clients can be fitted in our showroom and/or lounge.

We are in the process of onboarding all the ACME styles on our website, with a customised order form so that you can pick leather, sole type, width! We take care of all returns, exchanges, fittings, and sales procedures in the UK. Sit tight for more styles!

 

[Pascal1980]

Hello everybody,

I will visit London for a business trip on September 2nd to 6th. I will visit Jeremyn Street to look by at Crockett & Jones, Cheaney and maybe Loake.

I am interested also in the Balmoral Boot and Oxford in burgundy from Yearn at Aterton.

What can you say about the experience with the Yearn shoes? I think they look great online, and in store last year when I visited them just on the day they furnished their store shortly before opening it.

Best regards

Pascal

 

[kid1002]

Roiluxe will be hosting Oct Tenth’s first trunk show in Shanghai next weekend.

I’ve booked myself a slot on Saturday…

 

[WilYa]

Actually going to Hangzhou this summer for a bit wonder if I can do some get away from the in law to visit a few…

have you already made it to Hangzhou?
I will buy you a beer otherwise...

 

[clee1982]

haha, already back, no personal time was too busy with visiting infinite relative/in law...

 

[kid1002]

Alright so I just came back from Oct Tenth's first ever offline MTM trunk show, hosted at Roiluxe Shanghai.

A pair of beautiful Balmoral Oxfords immediately caught my attention when I first walked into the store, but more on that later.

I would say I went into the event well prepared, bringing with me moodboard print-outs I created using pictures of shoes I have seen and liked.

I knew I wanted to leave with two pairs of custom shoes, and I was even more sure I wanted one pair to be loafers.

Roiluxe put on display an entire wall of Oct Tenth RTW shoes, some newly brought to the store by the Oct Tenth team to stock and some to restock.

A selection of special models were placed on a sofa to showcase various designs customers could draw from as inspirations.

There was a decent amount of leathers customers could choose from. If my memory serves right, the range included standard calfskin, custom patinaed calfskin, hatchgrain, museum calf, reverse suede, pigskin, and more.

My first commission was for a pair of penny loafers in dark brown Utah.

I asked for the pattern to be based on their Moliere penny loafer but to made in their An last (instead of the standard Pu last).

The last maker, Tang, noted down my special requests and took my measurements. I ended up having a total of 5 positions on my feet that needed last adjustments.

While contemplating what my second pair of shoes should be, Tang casually mentioned to me about a pair of fully handmade Oxfords they have just completed ahead of this trunk show.

Needless to say he piqued my interest.

I thought I went into the event educated of all Oct Tenth's capabilities as a brand, so I definitely wasn't prepared for this -- for the first time ever, Oct Tenth will be offering full handmade as an option, placing this option above their Metropolis line.

In theory, Oct Tenth's fully handmade option will be very similar to what Gaziano & Girling is offering as G&G's Optimum option, whereby the shoes will be hand lasted, hand welted, have handmade sole stitch, hand-built heel and so on based on pre-existing lasts.

In practice, these handmade shoes are truly beautiful and clearly different from everything else in the trunk show.

This pair of O last Balmoral Oxfords has sleeker lines, tighter construction, and more detailed stitching all around the board in comparison to other Oct Tenth shoes.

Tang claimed that the SPI (stitch per inch) on their fully handmade shoes is 12. That is higher than G&G Optimum's 10 SPI. Whether or not stitch density is important to you will be up to you to judge.

I left the trunk show commissioning for my second pair of shoes to be fully handmade. There was a fair upcharge for this option.

Oct Tenth will be making for me a pair of five-eyelet derbies in grey-brown museum calf, designed based on their Ferguson model.

Turnaround time should be 2~3 months, and I will be documenting my journey here as well...

 

[clee1982]

thanks for the detailed write up

 

[justsayno]

@kid1002 lovely trip! what is the An last? I've got a Pu loafer and may go for a Jing loafer (less pointy) in the future

 

[kid1002]

@kid1002 lovely trip! what is the An last? I've got a Pu loafer and may go for a Jing loafer (less pointy) in the future

An is a slightly elongated last with a squared-off toe, arguably more chiseled than the Huang. An sits right between the Huang/Pu and the K/O in terms of its elongatedness.

An-lasted shoes typically have more ostentatious patterns, and they are most made with Oct Tenth's 'Classic' make. If made with 'Metropolis' or fully hand-done, these shoes should be even sharper in theory.

Here are some examples of An-lasted shoes.

 

[kid1002]

My new Badia penny loafers in dark brown museum calf.

 

[clee1982]

My new Badia penny loafers in dark brown museum calf.

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Looks good, I forgot this is OT with last modification?