• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • LuxeSwap Auctions will be ending soon!

    LuxeSwap is the original consignor for Styleforum, and has weekly auctions that show the diversity of our community, with hundreds lof starting at $0.99 every week, ending starting at 5:30 Eastern Time. Please take the time to check them out here. You may find something that fits your wardrobe exactly

    Good luck!.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

kid1002

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
947
For tassel loafers I ended up buying this from Mattina directly. I've been wanting to sell my Alden 664 with another textured or non-smooth pair of tassels.

This is Mattina's 'Rosseti' in black horween hatch grain leather. Size 41 with an additional layer of insoles added to each shoe.

I love Oct Tenth's Huang last, don't get me wrong, but I thought the slightly chiseled toe would not entirely work with more workwear-inspired looks that I would also like to wear with my tassels. The almond toe C last from Mattina would arguably work better.

IMG_6425.jpeg
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
29,068
Reaction score
24,921
Only reason I would think of bothering go to OT factory is to get measured. Would be visiting in laws so got like a day or so in Shanghai, doubt I can detour to there
 

clee1982

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
29,068
Reaction score
24,921
chisel tassel is too sharp for me too, it would definitely be a second tassel. What’s wrong with Alden it’s pretty much the ideal tassel in the look department for me (unfortunately Aberdeen is a poor fit for me so that’s a no go)
 

kid1002

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
947
Only reason I would think of bothering go to OT factory is to get measured. Would be visiting in laws so got like a day or so in Shanghai, doubt I can detour to there
I haven't been to their factory as well. It's just too far away from the city.

Depending on how my MTO turns out I might visit them in the future. I've heard good things about their hospitality and professionalism. Will definitely share my experience here when I do.

chisel tassel is too sharp for me too, it would definitely be a second tassel. What’s wrong with Alden it’s pretty much the ideal tassel in the look department for me (unfortunately Aberdeen is a poor fit for me so that’s a no go)
Nothing's really wrong on the Aldens. I guess it's just my excuse to buy a new pair of loafers :brick:

With that being said, I think my love for Alden's short-vamped, Ivy-styled loafers had been lessened after I saw Seiji McCarthy's more elegant take on the style. This would be my grail item... One day...

bespoke-cordovan-loafer-.jpg
bespoke-cordovan-loafers.jpg
ME2205_p86-87_sub1.jpg
 

kid1002

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
947
I visited Roiluxe over the weekend. Roiluxe is the exclusive stockist of Oct Tenth RTW in China, and, fun fact, they were also the first stockist of Mattina before Mattina decided to open their own retail store in Shanghai.

I have a pair of dark brown suede single monks being MTOed (in the making), but I decided to try on a few pair of Oct Tenth's RTWs.

Shown in the below is Oct Tenth's 'Massenet' Tassel Loafers in black calf. It's in Oct Tenth's Huang last, which, in the brand's own words, "features a soft square toe and curved last shape that follows the natural form of the foot". This is also the last I'm having my single monks made in. I'm wearing a pair in size 6.5 here.

Overall I love the last shape, but it's a real pitty these just don't suit my feet off the rack. My right foot is half a size larger than my left, and my right foot also has a higher instep with a more prominent bone. The left shoe fits alright, but my right foot immediately felt some hyperemia after squeezing into the shoe.

I would say, however, it's still a relatively forgiving last for average folks and maybe even for those with only the slightest of flat-footedness.

My single monks will see a fitting shoe arrive roughly in a week time, and I'll likely ask Oct Tenth to make my right shoe half a size larger than the left.

View attachment 2159055 View attachment 2159057 View attachment 2159059 View attachment 2159061 View attachment 2159063

Continuing from this visit...

Here is the 'Ferguson' 5-eyelet derby in dark brown calf. This pair is also in the Huang last, but I tried on a pair in size 7 instead of 6.5 due to availability. I should definitely take a 6.5 for my left foot.

Not a big fan of derby shoes, and at RMB¥4,980 these are out of the question for me. Not bad per se, but just not for me.

IMG_6405.jpeg

IMG_6406.jpeg
 

noverbeck

Active Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2019
Messages
44
Reaction score
32
I'm interested in getting a pair of CNES shoes after seeing them on the Parisian Gentleman/Sartorial Talks with Hugo Jacomet. I typically wear a size 6 UK and have a wide fore foot. I wear the following:
  • Carmina Forest and Rain: 6
  • Trickers 4444 and 4497: 6
  • TLB Mallorca Goya and Van Gogh: 6
Their size chart indicates a 38 would work, does that seem in line with what others have experienced?
 

kid1002

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
947
I was inspired by Shuhei Nishiguchi's look in black suede brogues (his is from Cheaney), so I visited Mattina today to order a pair via their newest MTO program.

1713340320637.png


Initially I tried on the Mahler, a pair of N-last adelaide oxfords. The slightly chiseled toe but still short-vamped toe shape, in my perspective, is more resembling of what Shuhei wears.

The second pair I tried on was the Elgar, a pair of C-last semi-brogue oxfords. The C-last represents Mattina's most traditional last with an almond toe shape. I like the design here better than the Mahler's, but fit of the Elgar wasn't exactly to my liking.

WechatIMG637.jpg
WechatIMG646.jpg


I eventually chose the N-last to build my shoe upon not only for it's resemblence to the Cheaney shoes, but also for it's higher instep and therefore better comfort.

The lady in-store then wrote down my requests. Here's what I am to expect in 3 weeks time:
- N-last
- Design based on the Elgar (broguing and all that)
- Leather sole
- Black suede leather
- Size 41 with an additional pair of insoles to compensate for my slightly smaller left foot
- Additional broguing on the toe (using their existing design for their 'Berlioz' oxford) to mimic the Cheaney pair that Shuhei wears

WechatIMG664.jpg
 

feijaocozido

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2020
Messages
15
Reaction score
16
I haven't been to their factory as well. It's just too far away from the city.

Depending on how my MTO turns out I might visit them in the future. I've heard good things about their hospitality and professionalism. Will definitely share my experience here when I do.


Nothing's really wrong on the Aldens. I guess it's just my excuse to buy a new pair of loafers :brick:

With that being said, I think my love for Alden's short-vamped, Ivy-styled loafers had been lessened after I saw Seiji McCarthy's more elegant take on the style. This would be my grail item... One day...

bespoke-cordovan-loafer-.jpg
bespoke-cordovan-loafers.jpg
ME2205_p86-87_sub1.jpg
I commissioned the Ethan loafer with Seiji in February during CNY. Lead time is long, 1 year for the first fitting and then another 6 months to a year for the final fitting. I have the Alden tassels in color 8 shell and snuff suede, and agree why bother with the Alden full strap when these exist.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0701.jpeg
    IMG_0701.jpeg
    432.8 KB · Views: 68

kid1002

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
947
I commissioned the Ethan loafer with Seiji in February during CNY. Lead time is long, 1 year for the first fitting and then another 6 months to a year for the final fitting. I have the Alden tassels in color 8 shell and snuff suede, and agree why bother with the Alden full strap when these exist.
Congrats. Was this commissioned in HK?

I DMed Seiji back a few weeks ago and heard that he doesn't plan to come to the Mainland anytime soon. Bummer.
 

kid1002

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
249
Reaction score
947
I visited Roiluxe over the weekend. Roiluxe is the exclusive stockist of Oct Tenth RTW in China, and, fun fact, they were also the first stockist of Mattina before Mattina decided to open their own retail store in Shanghai.

I have a pair of dark brown suede single monks being MTOed (in the making), but I decided to try on a few pair of Oct Tenth's RTWs.

Shown in the below is Oct Tenth's 'Massenet' Tassel Loafers in black calf. It's in Oct Tenth's Huang last, which, in the brand's own words, "features a soft square toe and curved last shape that follows the natural form of the foot". This is also the last I'm having my single monks made in. I'm wearing a pair in size 6.5 here.

Overall I love the last shape, but it's a real pitty these just don't suit my feet off the rack. My right foot is half a size larger than my left, and my right foot also has a higher instep with a more prominent bone. The left shoe fits alright, but my right foot immediately felt some hyperemia after squeezing into the shoe.

I would say, however, it's still a relatively forgiving last for average folks and maybe even for those with only the slightest of flat-footedness.

My single monks will see a fitting shoe arrive roughly in a week time, and I'll likely ask Oct Tenth to make my right shoe half a size larger than the left.

View attachment 2159055 View attachment 2159057 View attachment 2159059 View attachment 2159061 View attachment 2159063

A follow-up to this MTO journey:

3/27 - MTO commissioned
4/12 - Received try-on shoes
4/15 - Consultation with cobbler via WeChat

I reiceved my try-on shoes after about two weeks. I commissioned the pair in size 41 to start things off, knowing my left foot is half size smaller at roughly about size 40.5, and have asked the Oct Tenth team to give me some additional roominess for my instep.

(Please excuse my dirty floor. Was too excited to try these shoes on without doing house keeping.)

IMG_6748大.jpeg
IMG_6749大.jpeg


At first glance, it's basically what I had commissioned for: an altered take on single monks with a chiseled toe.

This pair of try-on shoes were made in cheap leather without interlining, but eventually these are going to be made in dark brown Janus suede.

WechatIMG176.jpeg


(I had a difficult time choosing between tan/sand Repello on the left and dark brown Janus on the right)

There are problems, however, and I am glad I spent additional money to have them make try-on shoes for me before going straight to a finished pair.

As you can see Oct Tenth basically made both shoes too long for me. I was able to fit about 1.5 fingers into the empty space at the heel, and I would say these were roughly half a size too large for me.

IMG_6746大.jpeg
IMG_6747大.jpeg


Upon consultation with their cobbler online, Oct Tenth proactively offered to make me a new pair of try-on shoes while having these old ones for me to keep.

I am expecting the new pair to arrive before May.

 
Last edited:

wjocon

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2024
Messages
6
Reaction score
8
Hi all, first post here :)

Just received in a pair from Helen Shoemaker / Blazing Wonders today. Happy to say that I am pleased with the final result. I provided my measurements through Instagram and was a bit weary that it would not fit right but Helen seems to know her lasts very well. Considering i have a difficult foot to fit (narrow heel, wide width but low instep), the stock Z last holds my nicely with no heel slippage. To compare, I've put it next a pair of Oct. Tenth Adelaide oxfords on the Huang last which is the best shoe in my small but growing collection. I would say overall, I still prefer the fit & finish of Oct. Tenth Pair but you can't deny how good that sole looks.

IMG_1747.jpg
IMG_1743.jpg
IMG_1739.jpg
 

Featured Sponsor

Do You Have a Signature Fragrance?

  • Yes, I have a signature fragrance I wear every day

  • Yes, I have a signature fragrance but I don't wear it daily

  • No, I have several fragrances and rotate through them

  • I don't wear fragrance


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
509,068
Messages
10,607,170
Members
224,804
Latest member
vijaypalrawat56
Top