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The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I’d reach out to @jacksomeister and their team for advice on the last and sizing. BN7 could maybe work? That being said I don’t think I’m familiar with a pattern from them that checks the box on what you had in mind so that would be worth checking on since it sounded like you had something quite specific you wanted.
View attachment 1617952View attachment 1617953View attachment 1617954

He answered your question in the next paragraph down. Nothing “wrong” with crust - plenty of makers use it it’s just different and worth making sure it’s the look you want. If I’ve got the option for aniline I take it over crust. An option would be the weinheimer chestnut they stock. If you hit it with some creams you could probably get fairly close to your desired color I would think but I bet @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes has experience with that leather or has seen it.
I definitely have no reservations about paying more for aniline.

The patina that Shell develops over the years is something I really like, or what happens to vegetable tanned leathers. Burnishing, if it is subtle, also catches my eye. Not a fan of man made patinas.
 

Viatu

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Thanks.

Do they generally achieve a good likeness?
I've never used their patina services because I normally don't go for patina finishes on my shoes. But, I know they offer those services and their customer service is excellent in my opinion. So, I think they'd do a great job. Furthermore, Yeossal will even create a very similar shoe to the Saint Crispin shoe you like if you can get others to go in on a group order with you. I know because I approached them about creating a Saint Crispin like French Norwegian Derby.
 

GrahamM

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Thanks guys for all the info and your views. I have been in touch with Yeossal regarding this type of shoe and they seem happy to replicate.

Can I ask a bit of a silly question, bearing in mind I started this all off??? Is it a bit of mis-match/anachronism to buy a shoe from StC or Yeossal which is going to be a sleek shoe no matter who makes it and then it's a fairly heavily brogued Derby shoe?

Cheers

Graham
 

Jmr928

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Thanks guys for all the info and your views. I have been in touch with Yeossal regarding this type of shoe and they seem happy to replicate.

Can I ask a bit of a silly question, bearing in mind I started this all off??? Is it a bit of mis-match/anachronism to buy a shoe from StC or Yeossal which is going to be a sleek shoe no matter who makes it and then it's a fairly heavily brogued Derby shoe?

Cheers

Graham
Sleekness falls on a spectrum. You can also opt for tweaking options to make it less so. If you go for the Yeossal pair take a beveled waist rather than fiddle back or even ask if they can just do a square waist. Things like getting the standard non-tapered heel. You could consider a double sole or a wider welt. It won’t look like a country shoe like a pembroke or something but it doesn’t need to be flashy and contradictory either. Avoiding a last with a sharp toe and avoiding a bold patina would help. A grained leather would work. It’s doable.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Thanks guys for all the info and your views. I have been in touch with Yeossal regarding this type of shoe and they seem happy to replicate.

Can I ask a bit of a silly question, bearing in mind I started this all off??? Is it a bit of mis-match/anachronism to buy a shoe from StC or Yeossal which is going to be a sleek shoe no matter who makes it and then it's a fairly heavily brogued Derby shoe?

Cheers

Graham
Sleekness falls on a spectrum. You can also opt for tweaking options to make it less so. If you go for the Yeossal pair take a beveled waist rather than fiddle back or even ask if they can just do a square waist. Things like getting the standard non-tapered heel. You could consider a double sole or a wider welt. It won’t look like a country shoe like a pembroke or something but it doesn’t need to be flashy and contradictory either. Avoiding a last with a sharp toe and avoiding a bold patina would help. A grained leather would work. It’s doable.
So that I am understanding your apprehension properly, you are concerned about a style clash. Correct?

If you are, you can mitigate that clash by adjusting the details surrounding the last.
As @Jmr928 mentioned, minor adjustments made here and there can provide some balance to the final product.

Word of caution...avoid at all costs extra chiseled lasts. The sample StC shoe works well because that Classic last is a neutral modern round shape. That neutrality allows for versatility. Ideally, Yeossal can replicate it. If they can, you are 👍🏻.
 

j ingevaldsson

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Should be of interest for folks here:

A couple of my favourites:





 

j ingevaldsson

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Everyone who had thought Oct 10 and Y were both Xibao right now:
View attachment 1624159
Hehe, I've always said all brands who folks were sure were Xibao weren't :) That said, not saying those two you mention there aren't though, I mean Oct Tenth has always openly been Xibao. But more fun for all if the uncertainty in general about who is made where continues :cool:
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Everyone who had thought Oct 10 and Y were both Xibao right now:
View attachment 1624159
As far as I'm aware there's only three companies that use Xibao factory. Yeossal and Oct. 10th have to be made in the same place. They pretty much are mirror images of each other.

The rest of the available options out there are reserved for guessing games. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I'd actually be curious to know if the German founder (or maybe Austrian I forget 🤔) that offers Bespoke is made by BW.

Tried googling it but for the life of me I can't find the darn company's name haha.
 
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Betta

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As far as I'm aware there's only three companies that use Xibao factory. Yeossal and Oct. 10th have to be made in the same place. They pretty much are mirror images of each other.

The rest of the available options out there are reserved for guessing games. 🤷🏻‍♂️
I discovered BW on IG by mistake. At first I thought they were a scam account because they had several shoes that look eerily familiar and it was actually boot_owl who pointed out that it was an official account. If you check BW instagram you can see the same shoe being delivered to oct tenth and Yeossal.

I've ordered from them. Helen is incredible to work with, language barrier is rough. Helen replied at ungodly hours! when compared to both OT and Y... took over 48-72 hours and sometimes never replied back
 
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BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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I discovered BW on IG by mistake. At first I thought they were a scam account because they had several shoes that look eerily familiar and it was actually boot_owl who pointed out that it was an official account. If you check BW instagram you can see the same shoe being delivered to oct tenth and Yeossal.

I've ordered from them. Helen is incredible to work with, language barrier is rough. Helen replied at ungodly hours! when compared to both OT and Y... took over 48-72 hours and sometimes never replied back
Personally, I have only ever heard of the name of the company. Didn't know much about them other than looking like Xibao stuff. I'm not entirely sure what truly differentiates each of these companies (Xibao & BW particularly). I suppose the opportunity to potentially go Bespoke? Leather, styles, lasts, construction all appear to be identical. I guess, based on your comment, that customer service would be in their favor as well.
 

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