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The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

bernoulli

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When was this? I went to Medallion a couple of weeks ago and was quoted a bit over RMB8,000. Are you saying it is over 9k?

Just a heads up for the guys on here - ACME prices already increased (at least for MTO) by almost 15%.
 

clee1982

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Maybe RTW is same? Think he was quoted a few days back, I was expecting ACMe to eventually go up but not that fast
 

Jmr928

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When was this? I went to Medallion a couple of weeks ago and was quoted a bit over RMB8,000. Are you saying it is over 9k?
Was that RTW or MTO? And inclusive or excluding VAT? I got quoted in USD but it had been rolled out as about $1450 for MTO. I got quoted $1630 or around 10,500 RMB (plus shipping to the US). Add in shipping and duties and the handling fee to the $1,630 and I'm probably close to $2,000 USD if not over. I'm definitely out at that price. If it were 8,000 RMB I'd have sent them a wire already.
 

JustPullHarder

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Good post! Yeah, come to think about it, doesn't EG use JR soles?

Like you say if it's chestnut, oak bark or acorn tanned doesn't matter that much, it's the process and amount of time in the pits that matters the most here I believe. Garat's soles that you mentioned (which are chestnut tanned yes) are excellent, and know many makers love them since you can specify the fat percentage, making them a pleasure to work with. And Weston's chestnut tanned soles are amazing. But you can chestnut tan soles for two-three months as well and they are not at all the same quality, so it's not a terminology working to determine things here.

On the topic, my G&G bespoke chukkas have Baker sole on one shoe and Garat on the other. Doing real life testing on endurance 😊
My understanding is that it's an inference from the fact that EG states that their soles are tanned for 9 months which is what JR says.
 

clee1982

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so ACME RTW price increased as well instead of $1,290+$90 for shipping it's now $1,380+$90 for shipping (though that sounds like about F/X move)
 

Jmr928

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The RTW is closer to still intriguing if there’s a stock pair you like - The lazyman but I think it’s on a pretty aggressive small chisel last? The MTO though jumping up to 1750ish plus duties has moved past the intriguing threshold for me assuming it would be over 2 by the time I got it.
 

bernoulli

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MTO (they don't make my size in RTW) and I don't know about VAT, as I live in China. I went through my notes and was quoted 8,600RMB but I do remember that the salesman (great guy) said that some models were more expensive than that. If it is around that I will most likely order something. Meanwhile, for a bit over a third of that price, a new commission from a local guy (my friend) is coming along nicely.

IMG_4183.JPGalmost ready.jpg

Was that RTW or MTO? And inclusive or excluding VAT? I got quoted in USD but it had been rolled out as about $1450 for MTO. I got quoted $1630 or around 10,500 RMB (plus shipping to the US). Add in shipping and duties and the handling fee to the $1,630 and I'm probably close to $2,000 USD if not over. I'm definitely out at that price. If it were 8,000 RMB I'd have sent them a wire already.
 

DL120

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Somehow I just now stumbled across this thread, probably because I haven’t been on SF for almost a year. But figured I’d share some of the pairs I have from ACME, as I have another or 2, on the way.

11412299-BC7D-4219-BEA9-E3ACAE8C1845.jpeg

F75 last, dark cognac hatch embossed shell single monk handsewn split toe derby. Hand stitched blind waist handwelted construction.
34DBF965-3F45-40F8-B8BE-BC126644EBF5.jpeg

T89 last, color 4 shell handsewn split toe derby. Half Norwegian welted, with a blind pegged waist construction.
Both are rather impeccable pieces of work that fit excellent. I had a slight last mod on the single monk to snug up the vamp and instep due to the lack of lacing.

I’m sure it has been said here before, but the build quality and finishing is top notch, especially at the price point. Once you include shell, it definitely stretches the value proposition you get from the rtw range. But as far as finding a high end maker willing to use shell in almost any pattern is not easily found.
I’ll share some of the new pairs when they arrive. 🙌🏻
 

DL120

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Looks good, sozing advice?
Thank you - sizing, I think the general consensus is TTS. The best way to describe ACME, I’d say is a standard width, a somewhat elongated toe (think GG Deco last inspired) but not elongated fitting and what I’d consider a normal instep. I do have a mid, to mid/tall instep, and it’s very comfortable for me. So maybe the instep is on the normal, normal/generous end of the spectrum. Of course I’d always recommend going with their guidance as well as what you know about your foot for sizing section.
But for me, I float between a uk7/uk8, all standard width. I take a uk7.5 in T89, F75, A20 & N83 lasts. The fit is as good if not the best I have.
 

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