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The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

beargonefishing

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Cross post from the Yeossal thread - High end Chinese MTO/RTW vs High end Japanese RTW?

I'd been meaning to write this up for a while - I picked up a pair of oxfords from the Y sale they had on old stock/GMTO returns to try and dial in my sizing and when they got here I felt like it was a more fair comparison than my Thompsons and I was curious how they would stack up against the best pair of shoes in my collection. My photography sucks but hopefully you'll get the point. The short version is that if you're looking for a way to break into good handwelted shoes - Y is a great place to look. Comparison in the spoiler and this really shouldn't be a fair fight so don't go read it expecting me to say Y is better than YF.
View attachment 1565758
Price point - I got the Y's on sale for something like $500 USD - Normal pricing gets closer to $700 with trees, toe plates, shipping etc. Fukuda is $2,300 plus shipping for about the same.

People talk about specs a lot - Things like stitches per inch on the upper, stitches per inch on the sole, handwelted, hand lasted, etc. These two shoes are an example that the numbers alone tell you some but not a lot on how they're actually executed.

On to stitches per inch on the sole - Yeossal boasts 12 SPI, Yohei is 10. Both are machine stitched.
The Yeossals are mostly very good but there are a couple stitches here and there that aren't the most tidy and miss.
View attachment 1565759
The YFs have deeper fudging and the stitching is more deliberate - Not a single stitch is missed and they fall perfectly in the fudging.
View attachment 1565760
The uppers and broguing detail
The Yeossals are again pretty good - There are a couple places where the broguing floats a little bit and gets closer to the edge one way or another View attachment 1565761
The YFs - There is less broguing but every single one is placed the exact same distance perfectly.

The heels - Both have a slightly pitched heel - The Y tapers a bit more than I would prefer but it's slightly more subtle on this pair than on my Thompsons which are almost Cuban. View attachment 1565762
You can also see the stitching on the uppers, the skiving and clicking is just a little bit cleaner and more precise on the YFs here at the heel closure.
View attachment 1565763

Sole work - Both have a tight waist with Y actually being just slightly slimmer. YF has the smaller heel but both are very good.
View attachment 1565764

Leather quality - YF wins here. The leather is just better quality but the Yeossals are not bad by any sense of the word, YF just has the edge and for more than 3x the price it should.

Last definition and shape - Obviously this is a lot of personal preference but the Yeossal holds up surprisingly very well. The shape is refined, there is good definition and nothing looks out of place. The YF last is slightly more refined but they're also different shapes.
View attachment 1565766
View attachment 1565767
View attachment 1565768

As for the goodies that come with your shoes - They both come with two shoe bags with the Yeossal being velvet and the YFs being wool

View attachment 1565769

YF comes with a polishing cloth as well and his wooden box which is a nice to have but not a game changer.

The trees are similar with the YFs being a little more finished and a little lighter even though the core isn't drilled out like on the Yeossal trees. View attachment 1565770
These shoes truly belong in different categories but I did want to compare because the value for what you get from Yeossal is really exceptional and I'll admit to being shocked how well they held up against the YFs. The biggest differences come when you put them side by side and start to pull out a tape measure or hold them a foot from your face. If you're on the fence about whether or not a handwelted shoe from China is worth $700 I'm confident in saying that you have nothing to worry about.
The more I see a fiddleback v beveled, I more and more favor the beveled sole. Both are fantastic.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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fiddleback definitely feels more deliberate while beveled seems a lot more "natural transition" to me
100% agree.

Unless you are looking at it from the underside position, it is sort of a waste to pay extra for it (some maker's charge a premium for fiddebacks). A rounded waist is my preference for the reason it comes across as more intrinsic.
 
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Forgot to x post from yeossal thread so apologies to those that already saw the photos.

Bought this pair on their recent sale. YSQ F width last sptd to replace my SoH George. Over time the George felt too narrow in the toe box for my comfort. This one is ina Different grain leather but similar color.

Fits great on first try on. Plenty of toe room and vamp flexibility and good support for the arch.

View attachment 1553740View attachment 1553741View attachment 1553742View attachment 1553743View attachment 1553744View attachment 1553745
May i ask about your trousers and socks?
What's the make of these?

:)
 

taxgenius

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Pardon for the question, but I gave up after 43 pages of reading. Did we ever reach a conclusion as to whether there is any benefit of Oct10 over Yeosal? The pricing is pretty close. There were comments of dry leather for Y but to me that is immaterial. Clearly, Y has many more lasts but are there any other differences to be aware of? I am leaning towards Y simply because I already have one pair on the YRB last and may get one on the DR70 last.
 

Jmr928

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Pardon for the question, but I gave up after 43 pages of reading. Did we ever reach a conclusion as to whether there is any benefit of Oct10 over Yeosal? The pricing is pretty close. There were comments of dry leather for Y but to me that is immaterial. Clearly, Y has many more lasts but are there any other differences to be aware of? I am leaning towards Y simply because I already have one pair on the YRB last and may get one on the DR70 last.
Six in one, half dozen in the other. Go with the one that has the pattern and last you like or know your sizing in. Advantage to Oct 10 is they offer a fitting shoe option for extra cost and are a little more flexible in pattern creation and offer hollowed/hinged trees if that's your thing. Advantage Y is more lasts, more patterns, very slightly lower cost.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Pardon for the question, but I gave up after 43 pages of reading. Did we ever reach a conclusion as to whether there is any benefit of Oct10 over Yeosal? The pricing is pretty close. There were comments of dry leather for Y but to me that is immaterial. Clearly, Y has many more lasts but are there any other differences to be aware of? I am leaning towards Y simply because I already have one pair on the YRB last and may get one on the DR70 last.
As @Jmr928 just mentioned, select the one that suits your pattern palate and sizing best. No other real differences to sway your vote one way or the other.
 

clee1982

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I'll say take Yeossal in your case since you got size nailed down first, no need to gamble on that, Yeossal has a ton of pattern would be surprised if you can't find something you like

edit: in my case my preference is OT because I got size down in there instead
 

CollinChueng

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Could I be input?
Crocowalkshoes
We focus on exotic shoes with our own versatile last.
Oxford, Derby, Loafer, Boot and Monk there are all you can find.
 

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