The Great Navy Blazer Conundrum

[RogerC]

Interesting. Most non-work related social occasions I go to, I'm one of the few with a jacket, and often the only one with a tie.

 

[driftking]



Where from? I'm looking for something similar.

PM sent...

 

[Gus]

I see a lot of 20's-30's trying tweed for the first time in the San Francisco area. Much of it is worn with khaki's, bow tie, sweater vest, NATO watch band, pocket square and brown wingtips. Or, with a heavy beard, boots, denim and a chambray work shirt and flat cap.

 

[Ivar]



Here, you see a lot of the less explicitly country tweeds: black/white herringbone and the like. However, it also seems that the sports jacket is losing ground among younger generations. If they need to dress up, they wear a suit, and otherwise, streetwear. The middle point, odd jacket, possibly with tie, is being eroded.

I don't know about that. Suits, odd suit-jackets and sport coats are extremely common on young folks over here, especially on weekends. Probably more common than I can ever recall. They're typically not styled by CM standards, however; more like how Miguel looks here:


[VIDEO][/VIDEO]


(I myself love this look, but I realize it might not be to the typical CMer's taste.)

 

[Loathing]



This kind of garment just doesn't have a history in Europe outside the navy. Even in Britain it's very specific to sailing or yachting... So I guess it can be considered an Americana.

I don't agree with this at all. In Britain, a navy blazer with brass buttons and grey trousers has always been de rigueur for any daytime occasion that requires a little smartness. It is definitely not Americana; nor does it have any real maritime connotations anymore. In fact my father, a thoroughbred Englishman, uses such blazers as his only odd jackets -- he has several in both DB and SB configurations and in different weights.

 

[Victor Elfo]

In my opinion, the initial question is solved: the real blazer (with brass buttons) is too conspicuous for everyday wear. However, exchange the buttons material to horn or mother of pearl and the problem is solved.

Was tempted to get Brushed Gold Buttons on this jacket, but was advised against it. Settled on light horn instead, and I like the way it turned out with the Minnis Fresco 0516.

Good looking jacket! I'm going to commission a similar one next year with a welt breast pocket (I hate breast patch pockets). Right now, waiting the deliver of a summer BlazerSuit

(linen and silk, 6x2, hip patches, smoked MOP buttons).

 

[unbelragazzo]



Good looking jacket! I'm going to commission a similar one next year with a welt breast pocket (I hate breast patch pockets). Right now, waiting the deliver of a summer BlazerSuit

(linen and silk, 6x2, hip patches, smoked MOP buttons).

I'd be interested to hear whether you find a linen and silk blend hot in summer.

 

[Gus]



I'd be interested to hear whether you find a linen and silk blend hot in summer.

I had a navy silk, wool and linen blend that was cool in summer. It was light, it breathed well and the wool and silk helped minimize the typical wrinkles you get from linen. My son in law, as a result, purchased a similar blend in a cream suit for his wedding for a beach ceremony in Mexico during June. He managed to stay comfortable despite the hight temps and wicked humidity.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Any idea on what the ratios were? I wonder how high you can go on silk and still have breathability.

 

[Gus]



Any idea on what the ratios were? I wonder how high you can go on silk and still have breathability.

I seem to recall that his suit and my jacket were both about 15-20% silk.

 

[Victor Elfo]



I'd be interested to hear whether you find a linen and silk blend hot in summer.

Honestly, I don't have any deep info about it. I bought it in a local shop, but it's the best summer cloth that I've ever wore.
It doesn't wrinkle nor rumple, it's really lightweight and breathes as no other cloth that I've ever wore. The down side is, I feel that it will wear quickly.

 

[Victor Elfo]

Here is two photographs of a length that I'll have made into trousers.

 

[alexSF]

I recently bought online a Polo by Corneliani Navy Blazer (Polo "Soft" cut) thinking to switch to gold buttons.

The fabric seems to be an Hopsack with a moulinè/jaspè effect, actually I am not too convinced that this fabric could work with gold buttons, probably bright plain silver will work better, what do you think?

(I still own blazer with MOP and antiqued silver button, so they aren't an option)

 

[Caustic Man]

I don't see a problem with brass buttons for that jacket. Not a fan of silver. The brass reminds me of a traditional military uniform and expresses echoes of that past. Silver doesn't really say anything to me. But that's just my opinion of course. It has no basis in any "rule" or polite requirement that I know of.

 

[NOBD]

How about smoked MoP, Alex?