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The Great Navy Blazer Conundrum

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Caustic Man, Feb 8, 2013.

  1. Stone

    Stone Senior member

    Messages:
    196
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2002
    Thoughts on using Dormeuil's 10oz 90% mohair/10% wool Tonik fabric for a navy blazer?
     
  2. Sam H

    Sam H Senior member

    Messages:
    117
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2012
    I got that blazer from Mr Ned the other day. Fit is great, first custom piece of tailored clothing I own. A lot of people get in arguments about him but I'm happy with the result. He gave me a well fitting jacket with all the details I requested. I wanted something that was not a sack or baggy but I'm not interested in the shrunken look that is popular and he delivered with a well fitted, yet not pulling or shrunken, jacket. I didn't micromanage the process like some people on these boards seem to say you have to do; in fact I think that is probably bad because being micromanaged is the most annoying thing in the world.

    The one thing I am keeping an eye on is slight divoting in left shoulder. Seems to be actually be improving just having the jacket on. He invited me to come back in a few months with any comments and the jacket, and they will look into it. All in all a great experience.

    Anyway, getting to the point I had been reading these boards for button inspiration. Gold shank buttons would simply be over the top for me. I dont personally like the look and it would be alienating for a lot of people around me so lose/lose. I would consider them on a DB blazer just to go all in but if I want my SB blazer to be a nice piece of clothing I can wear out without bad attention being drawn to it, and that didn't make me feel like I was 13 going to someone's bar mitzvah all over again, I knew I had to pick a set of buttons I liked more.

    So I settled on these really nice coppery-brown iridescent MOP buttons. They are subdued and less iridescent than some MOP, and when not catching the light look like a natural uneven mid-brown, but then they catch the light and look like gold/copper 4-hole buttons with iridescent rather than metallic flash. I'm really happy with the look because I understand the principle why shiny and contrasting buttons look good on a blazer but don't like metal shank buttons. I think silver is iffy and I already have smoked MOP on a velvet blazer I got a while ago which I think suits it really well, but I think the antiqued yellow/brown tone on navy with some kind of non-suiting flash is really what sells brown MOP. I'll post some pics later.
     
  3. Spark

    Spark Senior member

    Messages:
    444
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2009
    Location:
    Thereabouts
    I've got 4 of these rigs:

    1) Isaia 150s in the "old" Base S cut - zippo padding in the softly rounded shoulders (probably closer to the Scott model rather than the Stewart), perfect 3/2 roll, flapped pockets, incredible drape, this thing just shimmers when you wear it. I swapped the horn buttons with some antiqued brass shank numbers that are very discreet... a burnished metallic brown. This is my "dress" blazer - with a dark pair of gray slacks it comes across as quite formal.

    2) Zegna Traveller - Made from a special high-twist cloth, this is a classic patch, 3/2 roll pocket setup that I swapped the buttons (same ones as on Isaia) on. Very light padding, unlined double-face cloth (interior is a woven alternating brown stripe) that's good for F/W/S. Best part is it is virtually "un-wrinkalable".. ball it up in an overhead and let it sit there for 5-6 hours and then pop it out looking fresh. Solid workhorse staple that goes with everything. I spend a lot of time on the road and so does this.

    3) Zegna High Performance - This is a hopsack weave that is in the "Travel" model...Zegna has its Traveller cloth and a model/cut called Travel (and sometimes they are combined in some models). I'm no Zegna expert, but I'm thinking this was an early version of the Traveller series" back when they were calling the weave "high performance wool." Very minimal padding but with a slight roping and a 3/2 roll with a bit of a higher gorge and flapped pockets. I swapped the buttons for gray MOP and use this in S/S as an alternative to #2. The Performance fabric is very hard to crease or wrinkle..

    4) Linen Facconnable - This is one of the older ones made by Cantarelli. Unlined, 3 patch pockets, 3/2, very soft shoulders, and a little more towards the middle of the navy color scale. Great summer piece that's a bit less formal than the other three, so I threw white MOP buttons on it.

    With the exception of the Isaia, all were opportunistic/impulse purchases. Although I got a sweetheart deal on the Isaia through STP back when they were very first carrying them (8+ years ago) and the prices were dirt cheap because no one (among STPs early audience) knew what they were, I bought it as a core, staple investment piece. It's proved to be that, but the Zegna's probably get more day2day wear due to the fact that I travel almost nonstop for work.
     
  4. Sam H

    Sam H Senior member

    Messages:
    117
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2012
    [​IMG]

    Pictures of copper/brown mother of pearl buttons on my new navy blazer. I think the effect is very nice at emulating some of the cool parts of gold on navy but without being gold on navy. And also showcasing the nice iridescence of MOP.

    Album: http://imgur.com/a/WW2qf

    You can see from the other pictures that these buttons are not always "on". When not catching the light they are much more subdued.

    EDIT: Guys, here's a color corrected one. I can't take photos very well. http://imgur.com/rHo6xf1 This is because in the picture here it looks black and my sheets look ecru. My sheets are white and the blazer is dark navy.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2016
    2 people like this.
  5. Newberry

    Newberry Senior member

    Messages:
    531
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2015
    Sorry I'm new to blazers and know very little about them. My question is, would the waist feel the same on a 36S and a 36R? Or is the only difference the sleeve length and bottom length? Thanks.
     
  6. mmaatt

    mmaatt Member

    Messages:
    11
    Joined:
    May 20, 2016
    Location:
    Columbus, Ohio
    I believe the Short/Regular/Long just refers to the jacket length. I don't remember if it refers to the sleeves too. A 36 is the chest measurement which I believe is supposed to be 4" (it varies on who made the jacket and the fit such as slim/trim/modern) than your actual chest (so you can breathe). The chest wouldn't change but an R would be longer than the S so it would feel different. That is just my thinking though. I'm a 36S and have never felt right in a 36R.
     
  7. Nickd

    Nickd Senior member

    Messages:
    354
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2016
    The sleeves change length with the jacket length. I generally wear a 40R and I find the most obvious thing if I try on a 40S is that the button point is too high, not necessarily that the jacket is too short.

    I've got two navy blazers, a single and a double breasted, both with gold/brass buttons. I'd think about changing to horn though - mainly on the single breasted.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2016
  8. chippneckwear

    chippneckwear Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    80
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2015
    I still have some of our vintage "Pointer Dog" horn buttons. They are die struck using cape buffalo horn .( The cape buffalo is NOT endangered) These buttons were made about 50 years ago.
    Paul Winston
    Winston Tailors/www.chippneckwear.com
    212 687-0850[​IMG]
     
  9. Newberry

    Newberry Senior member

    Messages:
    531
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2015
    [​IMG]

    Good morning gentlemen. How does this blazer look length wise? Good fit or a bit long? Sorry about the dirty mirror.
     
  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,875
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
  11. The Louche V2

    The Louche V2 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2017
    I work in a field that requires me to look professional, but at the same time provides a high degree of latitude: residential real estate. I also live in the extra boat-happy town of Annapolis, MD, where nearly everything has some sort of nautical connotation. I find my two go-to navy blazers to be extremely utilitarian -- much more so than they were, for example, in my big corporation days. My point is that, as with anything else, clothing is all about context -- and in the context I describe above, there are few more utilitarian garments than a well cut and fit blazer.
     

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