The Fall of The Black Wingtip

[pejsek]

The recent blizzard of discussion about brogues/wingtips got me to wondering. How and when did the black wingtip fall from its lofty perch as the go-to shoe for American men? I was born in 1961 and as far back as I can remember the black wingtip was the one shoe all men seemed to reach for when they got dressed up.

Around here these days there's a lot of well-informed chatter about how the brogue is an inherently casual shoe. And while I can't say I really disagree, this certainly wasn't always the case in the US. My well-dressed grandfather always had a pair of black wingtips at the ready--as did my not so well-dressed college professor father. And my uncle sported a pretty unyielding daily uniform of Brooks Brothers pinstriped or solid charcoal suit with a white ocbd and black wingtips.

When I first started getting interested in old bespoke clothes about 15 years ago I regularly turned up black brogues here in San Francisco from the likes of Maxwell, Lobb, and Cleverley. Well, as Grayson would say they must have been doing this under extreme duress. But still, I wore black brogues with suits well through the nineties and never felt anything other than virtuously proper.

Only when I started reading Flusser did I start to prefer brown shoes. And only once I rather half-consciously started accepting the dicta of forum groupthink did the scales fall from my eyes and I could see the black brogue for the mongrel it surely must be. Things change, of course, but it's always sad for me to see regional variations blur and die out. I hope the old Austro-Hungarians will keep on keepin' on with their Budapesters. And I must admit a certain wistfulness at the disappearance of the black wingtip from the American landscape.

 

[TheFoo]

I think the black shoe is making a comeback. The past ten years, we've seen people increasingly turn to lighter and lighter shades of brown. It was easy to get caught up in the beauty of the leather itself, but it turns out tan shoes are hard to match. So, now it seems darker shoes are regaining popularity. I bet you'll see more and more of the iGentry turn to darker brown and black shoes this year. There, I called it.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I think the black shoe is making a comeback. The past ten years, we've seen people increasingly turn to lighter and lighter shades of brown. It was easy to get caught up in the beauty of the leather itself, but it turns out tan shoes are hard to match. So, now it seems darker shoes are regaining popularity. I bet you'll see more and more of the iGentry turn to darker brown and black shoes this year. There, I called it.

My whiskey shells (my lightest non-suede shoes) are the easiest to match for me. YMMV.
FWIW, I'll be selling my only pair of black shoes on B&S in a week or so.

 

[AlanC]

I have a pair of old (EG) Peal black bals that I pull out all along with a suit, usually something heavier. I also have a pair of (old) Florsheim black longwing bluchers that I've worn maybe twice. I'm considering just tossing them as I always find a different shoe to wear. If I want to go wingtip I'll either go with the Peal bals or #8 shell or pebble grain tan longwing bluchers.

 

[bigbris1]

It might have been the moment when it was explained that full brogues are actually less formal than their plain counterparts.

I, for one, love a full brogue and a semi-brogue.

 

[Michael Ay329]

I don't agree with Mafoofan....2009 is the year of burgundy Shell#8 cordovan

The picky iGent will acquire a Wisky cordovan shoe/boot

 

[chorse123]

I have kept my eyes open for a pair on sale, with no luck. I would rarely wear them, but with a white shirt, gray flannel suit, and black knit tie....

 

[embowafa]

A full brogued black shoe seems a bit counter intuitive, no?

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the way I understand it: broguing + wingtip = casual-er, but black = formal-er

I can't think of a situation where I'd want to wear a black wingtip.

I can barely think of a situation where I'd want to wear the one pair of black semi-brogued oxfords I already own.

 

[dopey]

Full brogue, in black, as a dress shoe is an Americanism, and a perfectly acceptable one.
It, together with its black, cap toe, punch cap, and half-brogue, still the mainstay of American business dress, with brown being the province of "dressers."

What has eroded is the use of the shoes I listed above in favor of other black shoes, like the Kenneth Coleish square toe, split toes, loafers, etc. with suits.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by dopey

Full brogue, in black, as a dress shoe is an Americanism, and a perfectly acceptable one.
It, together with its black, cap toe, punch cap, and half-brogue, still the mainstay of American business dress, with brown being the province of "dressers."

What has eroded is the use of the shoes I listed above in favor of other black shoes, like the Kenneth Coleish square toe, split toes, loafers, etc. with suits.


Yep- the inevitable transition from good black shoes to bad black shoes.

 

[pejsek]

Originally Posted by bigbris1

It might have been the moment when it was explained that full brogues are actually less formal than their plain counterparts.

Okay, but formality usually is as formality does. At least a couple of generations of men grew up believing that the black wingtip was the most formal option. Historical exegesis is usually pretty weak in the face of actual practice.

I agree there has been some real re-education among those who read these boards, though. I think that is part of dopey's point. The fact that Alan is only half on board with the black brogues certainly gives me pause. And I'll admit I can't recall the last time I dug out the black wingtips for anything. Once you're gone you can't go back.

 

[bc78]

I have to admit I really like black wingtips and brogues with dark suits. I would be happy to take them off your hands if you don't wear them anymore.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by yachtie

My whiskey shells (my lightest non-suede shoes) are the easiest to match for me. YMMV.

Whiskey cordovan has kind of a dull palor to it that makes it easier to pair (it's also the dullness that I don't like about it, but that's another issue). It's the fiery tan shoes, which are so beautiful on their own, that tend to draw way too much attention to themselves when on the feet. Band-aid colored shoes are even harder to pair, and ugly on their own to begin with.

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

I don't agree with Mafoofan....2009 is the year of burgundy Shell#8 cordovan.

Possibly. But that would only prove my point: dark is in, baby.

 

[bigbris1]

Originally Posted by pejsek

Okay, but formality usually is as formality does. At least a couple of generations of men grew up believing that the black wingtip was the most formal option. Historical exegesis is usually pretty weak in the face of actual practice. I agree there has been some real re-education among those who read these boards, though. I think that is part of dopey's point. The fact that Alan is only half on board with the black brogues certainly gives me pause. And I'll admit I can't recall the last time I dug out the black wingtips for anything. Once you're gone you can't go back.
Yes, but the reality is, is most uninformed men think square-toed shoes is where it at right now. (shudder)

 

[pejsek]

Originally Posted by chorse123

I would rarely wear them, but with a white shirt, gray flannel suit, and black knit tie....

That's a great occasional look--even with the knit tie.