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the evolution of style continues....

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by acidboy, May 8, 2006.

  1. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    My wife got married (to me) in one of his dresses. She swears that his dresses are a better fit and more comfortable than any other designer.
    He does a mean bias cut.
     
  2. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    IMMSMC, David Chu created the Nautica brand, which was like Polo, only blander and, from sad personal experience, more shoddily made in China. I did not realize that he had had any creative control over John Varvatos, who I thought designed for his own label after spending time at RL. Chu has relaunched, which means basically he is selling a new collection at higher prices. From what I have seen in vivre, it appears similarly uninspired and overpriced. Sorry, I just really had a bad time with the Nautica brand.

    I agree with this assessment of Chu's work.
     
  3. gorgekko

    gorgekko Senior member

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    To paraphrase Radiohead ("Paranoid Android" if I remember correctly), "When I am king, GQ will be first against the wall/With your opinion which is of no consequence at all."
     
  4. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

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    To paraphrase Radiohead ("Paranoid Android" if I remember correctly), "When I am king, GQ will be first against the wall."
    Who are of course paraphrasing Douglas Adams.
     
  5. Augusto86

    Augusto86 Senior member

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    Who are of course paraphrasing Douglas Adams.

    Which is one more reason Radiohead are unoriginal hacks...

    As to the clothes - not knowing a thing about haute couture - I can't say one way or another. It all looks patently ridiculous to the untrained eye, and Yohji Yamamoto's stuff, though it always gets a good rap here, looks ill-fitting in the EXTREME. Maybe that's the point?

    At this level of fashion, it's so conceptualized that it zooms right over my head.
     
  6. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    This rykiel stuff is hideous.

    !luc
     
  7. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Au contraire, as they might say. There are some others, now more or less defunct who had almost as outlandish designs as Galliano's Dior. Although it's Galliano's presentation that is flamboyant, not neccesarily the clothes themselves.

    Some of Thierry Mugler's couture was Louis XIV extravagant; there was a bird of paradise Angkor Wat dress that cost $85,000 in 1991.


    Mr. Galliano is definitely a showman par excellence and I recognize that his runway show collections are not what necessarily makes it to the stores but some of the clothes is very outlandish. I do remember Mr. Mugler faintly.

    Dior's spring '06. I don't think anyone would accuse it of being practical
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Of course, the man himself is flamboyance personified.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. v0rtex

    v0rtex Senior member

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    She swears that his dresses are a better fit and more comfortable than any other designer.
    I have a pair of Galliano jeans I picked up on sale, and I agree. The fit is insane (even in comparison to Dior), and they're very comfortable. The bias cut, as mentioned above, is spectacular. They look bow-legged when laid flat! Hard to look good in though. Interesting, definitely. Good, debatable. I'd probably have eBay'ed them by now if I hadn't ripped one of the belt loops open. ...wonder if those Prada fur helmets will ever make it to the shops [​IMG]
     
  9. DADto9

    DADto9 New Member

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    The lights in the GQ dressing room must have gone out while the models were selecting their outfits. The last three photos look as though these were the portions of the wardrobe that didn't make the final cut for the Blade trilogy...Scary!!!!!!
     
  10. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Recent Galliano for Dior has just become a design farce without his initial excellence in design as per the '90s collections: [​IMG] [​IMG] Thierry Mugler did BDSM influenced "Power Dressing." Vivienne Westwood's Gold Label, shown in Paris, is another excellent although possibly eccentric collection: [​IMG]
     
  11. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    My advice would be to pay attention to fabric and color, if you are considering which is wearable, and which is not. Remember that runway shows are presentations of style, and are often charicatures of the the clothes.

    Similarly to how Thom Browne wears his suit super-tight and with sleeves and pant legs too short, yet a jacket off the rack for him is just on the slimmer side and nowhere near how he presents it.

    Dior follows this as well, with Slimane's shows and their fatless/muscleless models wearing suits and sport coats tailored ridiculously small. I've got a 36" chest, and Dior 46/36 coats are about the same fit on me as Costume National (slim, but not tight, still have to get the waist taken in a little).

    The same goes for pretty much everything there. Taken in the correct size and in the context of an outfit not so much overdone, I see a lot of pieces in that line up that I could pull off, and would love to wear, if I could afford them. Surprisingly, the Galliano stuff I've encountered has been wearable, and well-fitting as well.
     
  12. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    My advice would be to pay attention to fabric and color, if you are considering which is wearable, and which is not. Remember that runway shows are presentations of style, and are often charicatures of the the clothes.

    Similarly to how Thom Browne wears his suit super-tight and with sleeves and pant legs too short, yet a jacket off the rack for him is just on the slimmer side and nowhere near how he presents it.

    Dior follows this as well, with Slimane's shows and their fatless/muscleless models wearing suits and sport coats tailored ridiculously small. I've got a 36" chest, and Dior 46/36 coats are about the same fit on me as Costume National (slim, but not tight, still have to get the waist taken in a little).

    The same goes for pretty much everything there. Taken in the correct size and in the context of an outfit not so much overdone, I see a lot of pieces in that line up that I could pull off, and would love to wear, if I could afford them. Surprisingly, the Galliano stuff I've encountered has been wearable, and well-fitting as well.



    I saw the Spring '06 issue of Menswear in a local bookstore over the weekend and it included an article on how the average guy can take clothing from the runway and incorporate it into his wardrobe without looking like a buffoon (my paraphrase). As I recall, their advice was very similar to what BrianSD wrote. FWIW, the magazine also included some interesting general tips from Brunello Cucinelli (p. 83). Now, if only my free subscription copy would arrive, I would be happy....What's that website again?
     
  13. gorgekko

    gorgekko Senior member

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    Which is one more reason Radiohead are unoriginal hacks...
    Sweet merciful Allah, you can say a lot of things about Radiohead -- like their post-Kid A era has been a little too experimental -- but unoriginal hacks? A little strong. Besides, not like Adams came up with the line. OK Computer engaged me like few albums ever have. The clothes still suck.
     

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