The dreaded 'slim fit' - where did it all start?

[multiccy-csa]

I would like to reflect on this abomination in men's style. When did it all start, and why? and by who? i am guessing it was around 2000/2001, after the 'bagginess'/flares revival of grunge and Madchester in the 90s had worked its way out of the system.
Was there a 'style icon' who pioneered it (either by accident, or by some alterations) and then the fashion houses jumped on it? Or was it the other way around? I feel it wasn't actually such an abomination in theory, and when fashion houses, runways and purveyors of good quality sartoria embraced it, assuming the wearer was relatively young and slim, it looked relatively good - certainly sharp. But by the time it got to the high street, and the style was exaggerated, the story completely changed and it quickly started looking awful.
Personally, as a relatively slim chap born in 1979, the timing of the trend at first actually suited me quite well. i recall in the early 2000s (in my early 20s) when i fully embraced the 'slim fit' thing i felt i was looked pretty sharp, and bought everything i could this way. I smugly thought that the vast majority of men just looked awful by buying clothes effectively two sizes too large for them, and that all they needed to do to look good was to size down... but by the late 2010s, as my age advanced and frame enlarged, i was starting to realise this 15yr experiment, and effectively my entire wardrobe, was a mistake that needed an urgent and costly rectification. So this timed reasonably well with what feels to be a relatively broadly established move away from 'slim fit' on the high street.
So my second question is what, and who, started this about turn? And will it make it to the high street? I still see gentlemen walking around in the City in suits that show their full derrieres, and sleeves that look as if they are rolled up to their forearms. As an aside, I do wish the high street wouldn't exaggerate things so much, things wouldn't be half as much of the abomination they are...
Comments and thoughts are most welcome!

 

[JohnnyLaw]

I remember that Hedi Slimane (at Dior Homme) and Thom Browne were very influential in the early 2000s. They had distinctive styles, but both embraced extremely slim silhouettes.

 

[multiccy-csa]

I remember that Hedi Slimane (at Dior Homme) and Thom Browne were very influential in the early 2000s. They had distinctive styles, but both embraced extremely slim silhouettes.

That's a good point. I bought 3 or 4 Slimane Dior suits in around 2005/6, in Bicester Village on the cheap! i actually still have them, and occasionally still wear them. they exhibit precisely what i speak of: a 'slim fit' by a distinguished house/designer doesn't look so awful, even now. Despite the razor thin lapels, i can wear these suits (just about) even now in to my 40s.
I didn't get the Thom Browne memo... will have a shufty.

 

[DavidWatts69]

Mod suits in the 60s were often tailored to the extreme and were very slim, in order to break from the 'sack' tailoring of american 50s. Slim cuts were viewed as more continental european, thus more desirable.

 

[pierrebourdieu]

I have a Thom Browne suit that I purchased and had tailored at the New York flagship. I really adore Thom and I think the suit is quite flattering on me, but I happen to have a very slim figure. Plus, when I wear it to the opera or ballet people always come up to me to talk about it—because they know about the brand—which I can't really say about any of my other suits besides my Homme Plissé set. I don't really buy into the idea that there's one style of suit that is objectively more flattering than the others—personally, I'd like to have a suit in every style, because they all mean and communicate something different, and I am not any one person.

 

[multiccy-csa]

I have a Thom Browne suit that I purchased and had tailored at the New York flagship. I really adore Thom and I think the suit is quite flattering on me, but I happen to have a very slim figure. Plus, when I wear it to the opera or ballet people always come up to talk to me about it—because they know about the brand—which I can't really say about any of my other suits besides my Homme Plissé set. I don't really buy into the idea that there's one style of suit that is objectively more flattering than the others—personally, I'd like to have a suit in every style I can, because they all mean and communicate something different.

Interesting, could you please attach a photo?

 

[pierrebourdieu]

Interesting, could you please attach a photo?

In the only photo I have with it, it is totally engulfed in my Lemaire wrap coat:

But I'm sure I'll post the suit alone to WAYWT one of these days.

 

[Steve Smith]

Different body types need different fits. The OP is setting up a straw man by implying that slim fit means something along the line of "tight fitting, skinny lapel. too short in every measurement". That's not the case.

The major problem with the two suits that he pictured is simply that they are a poor fit, too small in the chest.

 

[Bradford]

You can blame Thom Browne, Hedi Slimane, and the popularity of Mad Men. It was also a reaction to the 90s look that included 3-4 button jackets and overly pleated pants.

 

[coolarrow]

It's still a thing. I was recently in Paris. You still see what I call the J Crew ludlow look. form fitting Black or navy suit. Matching tie, matching shoes, thin lapels...This was mostly among the young working guys w/office jobs.

 

[Concordia]

Didn’t Pee Wee Herman make a feint in this direction? Can’t remember when he left the scene.

 

[Using Technology]

I slightly disagree with the posters saying it originated with designers. I think they were following a trend that started in the public, especially the alternative music scenes where slim fit started as a backlash to baggy 90s clothes. I remember young men buying women's jeans to get them as skinny as possible--sometimes the same men who as teenagers were wearing JNCOs and baggy t-shirts a few years earlier--and there were lots of news stories about "metrosexuals" (remember that term?). This was the popular zeitgeist and the designers followed suit with slimmer suits and then slim jeans for men so men didn't have to buy from the women's section.

Now, baggy is back. Pendulum swings around.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Different body types need different fits. The OP is setting up a straw man by implying that slim fit means something along the line of "tight fitting, skinny lapel. too short in every measurement". That's not the case.

The major problem with the two suits that he pictured is simply that they are a poor fit, too small in the chest.

I’d generally agree there is a difference between a slim cut designed to fit slim people and a “slim fit” which refers to how it fits the wearer. A classic cut can be too slim on someone if it’s too small or the person is large.

In a classic menswear context though a slim fitting suit is rarely, if ever, a good look. Particularly the early-2000’s version with low rise trousers and a negative break, a short jacket and snug fit throughout.

It's still a thing. I was recently in Paris. You still see what I call the J Crew ludlow look. form fitting Black or navy suit. Matching tie, matching shoes, thin lapels...This was mostly among the young working guys w/office jobs.

It’s still a thing because it’s what cheap brands continue to make, it’s what’s readily available and, let’s be honest, most sales associates selling people suits are morons who don’t know anything about fit.

 

[sfslyboots]

In my recollection, Prada's first menswear line in 1998 was heavily inspired by early 1960s style lines. They had suits with thin lapels, narrow shoulders, and slender, flat front trousers. Unfortunately I can't find pictures of it on the internet but I remember it was very different than what was ubiquitous at the time. If I had to trace the skinny suit trend to something, before Thom Browne or Slimane, it would be this.

 

[chrlsful]

“...Comments & thoughts...welcome..."
Thanks for the opportunity & thread starter (like to see other’s comments too)~

U will see my diatribes elsewhere on the site about this (2 me) very same idea. I’ve put it, ‘there is no “men’s fashion”.’ We wear what we want. Do not follow industry, approved, de rigueur, ‘current’, trendy... as we have more sense that that (commercial production’s income needs, to be with-it, etc). As a middle skoler (usa:10 -13 y/o) or when in hi skol (again ‘here’: 14 - 18 y/o), “Yes” due to the psychological developmental phase at those ages. Not as adults. At that point we can develop clothing as a form of self expression, personality, aspiration, art, community identity, and such; not just something to protect (sun, wind, cold) and privacy (body cover).

Example: I’m in that “men” category. I was never aware of the things you sho in pic/post #1. I notice they’re all (I assume) African-American, a different culture than my own, n. european. I seek to stay w/in my own ID, not copy, stand out, be gaudy...

Only thing I can equate isa sorta casual suit. A TV’s "Miami Vice" (show) where a group of men wore no tie, an open silk shirt or up-quality T-shirt, (no sox?) and pushed their sleeves up as if the jacket were a shirt rolled at the forearms. For me it was too trendy, men-in-women’s-fashion, uncomfortable, etc. There was a good deal of jewelry ("men-in-women’s-fashion") as well. U can tell I’m a bit ol skol (but not staid or backward). I think “metrosexual’ came out just a short time later, is still with us. Example (on other threads here) of the jacket short-enuff in back to drape above "crotch’n butt line”.

Just like my cooking (I want ppl to say “mmm, good... is that xxx [a spice or 2] in there?”to taste the food in there, its self. I do not dress offensively/stick out, but am comfortable and have a personal flair. I have changed clothing 3, 4 times ina day. Work, participate in athletic event, attend ’social' after (club dinner, public house after, etc). Last example: |||Y do we just make these comments abt suits? a several hundred y/o artifact froma content away. (Love what the S.Americans did to it w/the Guayabera shirt. Or was it African 1st?: “we’re not gunna wear ur n.european suit even as U take over our land’n ppl.”). The Russians, Arabians (I mean all the folks of the mahagrave, sahiel, persia, etc), Chinese, s.e Asians, etc, etc DID). I know it was a direct refusal due to climate and politics... Y would one dress as your colonizers?||| I think its again, due to some of my points above (not offend, stay in trend, personal or cultural aspirations) BUT... it does Not have to be due to what is available (there was no guayabera suit at 1st). We’ve ignored all other clothing (that which I wear a greater amount of the d/wk.) End of rant~