The Devil's Lair - The ONI Denim Thread

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

Oni stretches wayyyy too much for my taste so I avoid it (same reason why Self Edge doesn't carry them). Iron Heart is king to me and what I frequently flock to.

I only find this to be true of the Secret denim. The heavyweight Kabuki denim stretches roughly the same as IH 21oz in my experience. Perhaps even a bit less. Oni also offers multiple other fabrics which will have variability in stretch so I think it is inaccurate to characterise all Oni fabrics as being very stretchy.

 

[mrthanh]

I only find this to be true of the Secret denim. The heavyweight Kabuki denim stretches roughly the same as IH 21oz in my experience. Perhaps even a bit less. Oni also offers multiple other fabrics which will have variability in stretch so I think it is inaccurate to characterise all Oni fabrics as being very stretchy.

I still wear Oni 246 Kabuki 22oz I bought about 4y ago, its still great for wear everyday. But I feel not streches too much and will shrink for perfect fit after washed

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

I still wear Oni 246 Kabuki 22oz I bought about 4y ago, its still great for wear everyday. But I feel not streches too much and will shrink for perfect fit after washed

Those are my favourite jeans ever. Absolutely fantastic feel and visuals and very durable too. Mine are about 3.5 years old and, despite significant wear, are holding up brilliantly. I also have a couple of unworn pairs I am saving for "later". I love this fabric and it is such a shame that it is no longer available. This is apparently due to fire which destroyed the only loom on which it could be produced.

 

[mrthanh]

Those are my favourite jeans ever. Absolutely fantastic feel and visuals and very durable too. Mine are about 3.5 years old and, despite significant wear, are holding up brilliantly. I love this fabric and it is such a shame that it is no longer available. This is apparently due to fire which destroyed the only loom on which it could be produced.

Yeah, after kabuki I bought SC and kiwami. But I feel SC really soft fabric🙁, heavy but soft and I feel a bit sadly. You can try kiwami this make me feel kabuki clone in lighter oz, haha

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

Yeah, after kabuki I bought SC and kiwami. But I feel SC really soft fabric🙁, heavy but soft and I feel a bit sadly. You can try kiwami this make me feel kabuki clone in lighter oz, haha

Yes, I have been eyeing Kiwami and Kihannen as my next acquisitions. There is also this 16oz Kabuki stuff. Having handled that, I was not convinced in the same way I was with the 22oz stuff. You can immediately feel the character and quality of the 22oz.

 

[mrthanh]

Yes,kabuki 22oz still is my demon jeans in my heart, haha. I dont know why PBJ are really expensive but I have terrible with PBJ. I bought a PbJ last year, wear about 20 times and after gentle wash I have a scratch hole on jean 🤣

 

[cocostella]

Thank you both. Just realized my post read “skinny” at the end, instead of “slubby” as I intended! 😑

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

Yes,kabuki 22oz still is my demon jeans in my heart, haha. I dont know why PBJ are really expensive but I have terrible with PBJ. I bought a PbJ last year, wear about 20 times and after gentle wash I have a scratch hole on jean 🤣

I have had an OK experience with PBJ. Have the double indigo XX-18oz-019 and XX-003 jeans and both holding up well so far tbh. If you want something durable to prevent recurrence of your experience with PBJ, IH 21oz is where I would start. Very solid stuff indeed.

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

Thank you both. Just realized my post read “skinny” at the end, instead of “slubby” as I intended! 😑

Oni has a few slubby fabrics. Check out the ones I mentioned to start but if you can find 22oz Kabuki, I would advise you to buy it.

 

[Jerkstore]

I only find this to be true of the Secret denim. The heavyweight Kabuki denim stretches roughly the same as IH 21oz in my experience. Perhaps even a bit less. Oni also offers multiple other fabrics which will have variability in stretch so I think it is inaccurate to characterise all Oni fabrics as being very stretchy.

You’re right. When I go back to Japan I’ll try out some other fabrics and see if I like them more.

 

[willy156]

So about a month into my 902zr they've stretched and loosened out nicely in the thighs and waist area. I sized down one and am glad I did so. However I now have a bit of a diaper butt, is this due to the high back rise? I know the fit is supposed to be a relaxed taper with a roomy top block and it fits my thighs, but a bit too much excess fabric in the butt area.

 

[Brian278]

So about a month into my 902zr they've stretched and loosened out nicely in the thighs and waist area. I sized down one and am glad I did so. However I now have a bit of a diaper butt, is this due to the high back rise? I know the fit is supposed to be a relaxed taper with a roomy top block and it fits my thighs, but a bit too much excess fabric in the butt area.

Higher rise does generally mean more room in the seat, if you’re not filling that out then yeah, it’ll be baggy. You could try wearing it a bit higher, google Bret Contreras, or ship it off to Denim Surgeon to shorten the back rise, not super cheap but they do pretty good work if it’ll salvage what’s already a substantial investment and you love everything else about the pair.

Oni’s 679 cut is similar but more of a mid-rise with room in the thighs and a strong taper, I think there are other less common cuts like 612, 912, that are low/mid rise but still with room in the thighs. Just look for mid rise, “relax spike”, or relaxed tapered without “high rise” preceding in. Denimio has a ton of different cuts from them right now.

 

[ghh923]

Son of Stag in UK appears to have some 20th anniversary jeans in stock. But they are claiming these are "red cast" and "blue cast"--not "moca" or "olive-ish grey," the only two colorways I understood were associated with the 20th anniversary. Is my understanding wrong--were there "red" and "blue" colorways for the 20th anniversary?

Example:

ONI 544 20th Anniversary Blue Cast Slim Tapered Jean - One Wash

Crafted from a uniquely woven, heavy slab yarn, this new offering from ONI Japan is a special release to mark the brand’s 20th anniversary. Weighting in at around 19 ounces, this jean has been hand woven on vintage looms to retain its characteristic slubby texture, which customers love for its...

sonofastag.com

 

[willy156]

Higher rise does generally mean more room in the seat, if you’re not filling that out then yeah, it’ll be baggy. You could try wearing it a bit higher, google Bret Contreras, or ship it off to Denim Surgeon to shorten the back rise, not super cheap but they do pretty good work if it’ll salvage what’s already a substantial investment and you love everything else about the pair.

Oni’s 679 cut is similar but more of a mid-rise with room in the thighs and a strong taper, I think there are other less common cuts like 612, 912, that are low/mid rise but still with room in the thighs. Just look for mid rise, “relax spike”, or relaxed tapered without “high rise” preceding in. Denimio has a ton of different cuts from them right now.

Thanks, I figured I would fit better in a mid rise
Still don't like low rise cause it shows off my crack if I bend over
Is denimio the best place to grab oni? There's other jp sites like bears and hinoya but they hardly have any stock

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

Son of Stag in UK appears to have some 20th anniversary jeans in stock. But they are claiming these are "red cast" and "blue cast"--not "moca" or "olive-ish grey," the only two colorways I understood were associated with the 20th anniversary. Is my understanding wrong--were there "red" and "blue" colorways for the 20th anniversary?

Example:

ONI 544 20th Anniversary Blue Cast Slim Tapered Jean - One Wash

Crafted from a uniquely woven, heavy slab yarn, this new offering from ONI Japan is a special release to mark the brand’s 20th anniversary. Weighting in at around 19 ounces, this jean has been hand woven on vintage looms to retain its characteristic slubby texture, which customers love for its...

sonofastag.com

I bought the moca weft type 3 from SoaS and I can confirm that red and blue are synonymous with moca and olive-ish in this case. I have been shopping at this store for years and they are very reliable. Staff have a deep knowledge and will help you out with any questions that you may have.