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The Despos Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Aug 27, 2010.

  1. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    Yeah, I see a DB in my future too. mid gray chalk stripe maybe.
     
  2. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    QFT. Though my next commission is definitely going to be an odd jacket of some sort.
     
  3. furosemide

    furosemide Senior member

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    Flannel DB would be boss. Saw and old pic of Jeffrey D's flannel DB and I've been obsessed with it since.
     
  4. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Looks great, and congratulations on your wedding! I was curious how the suit feels, on the spectrum from soft (Rubinacci, Kiton) to structured (Huntsman, Brioni)? Would you say there is a house style (like A&S), or is there a lot of flexibility (like Henry Poole)?
     
  5. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    I just googled that pic. That's an awesome suit!


    Thanks, Crimson. I would say Chris is very flexible. I never got the impression that he had a house style, and he certainly didn't approach me with a pre defined idea of how his suits uniformly look. It was more about getting to know me and my taste, what I would be wearing the suit for, and him understanding what would flatter me best. One of the things I discovered in Chris pretty quickly is he has a very good eye and a particularly strong sense of balance and proportion and he devoted a lot of energy into getting those elements right in the suit.

    The suit feels great! It's a light structure with great fluidness and a very comfortable fitted shoulder.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  6. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    It's often overlooked, but one of the greatest advantages of high-level bespoke is the back of the suit. Many times people will post pictures of RTW, and while the front appears smooth and fitted, the back will be a mess. Or if the back is clean, it will not trace the body's lines with the closeness and suppleness of bespoke. From the side, a bespoke back will have a subtle S shape, flowing over the blades with extra fullness, then hugging the small of the back. Straight on, it will have more of a )( shape as it curves inward around the sides of the waist. A good back distinguishes bespoke from much of RTW.


     
  7. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior member

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    I agree. I definitely got that in my suit and you certainly can see it in furosemide's. i doubt you can get that from any RTW. The other thing I would add is the shoulder, which I think is even harder for even good tailors to do than the back.

    For example, right before I discovered Chris I commissioned a suit from Huntsman. Huntsman did a nice job with back getting that S you refer to, but they struggled with the shoulder. Stephen mentions it in his article, but Chris has figured something out about the shoulder that makes a big difference in fit, look and comfort.
     
  8. Flake

    Flake Senior member

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    [​IMG]
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    This is going to be fun
     
  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Don't despair. The ease of making a dimple is genetically predetermined, like the ability to
    parallel park. I enjoy both gifts, but eschewed a career in valet parking.
     
  10. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

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    Chris, these sleeves make me very happy. Awesome job.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Grazie, Mr. D. You did a great job with your basketball player and under circumstances I wouldn't want to work under. Superb job! Check out his blog
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2013
  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks, Chris. I was really shitting bricks over that one....
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sounds painful!
     
  14. Flake

    Flake Senior member

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    I met Chris at his Chicago shop a couple of weeks ago. He is certainly everything I have read, both here and elsewhere. A real gentleman.

    After not being entirely happy with my last few MTM projects in both fit and styling, I decided to give bespoke a try. Since I am in Chicago fairly regularly, working with Chris seemed the natural choice.

    Chris' observation that I measure like a 40 from behind but a 44 across the front certainly helped explain some of my OTR and MTM fit issues. I tried on a couple examples he had in his shop and was extremely impressed with what he does with his shoulders- exactly what I was looking for. He also showed me what he would have done differently with the MTM jacket I had on that day. What a huge difference his suggestions made to the overall look and balance! I know I am in excellent hands.

    I settled on a 13 oz grey flannel with a subtle blue windowpane. Building it up as a three piece. I will add details and observations as the process progresses. Meeting him again in his Dallas shop for a basted fitting in a couple of weeks...
     
    2 people like this.
  15. Victor Elfo

    Victor Elfo Senior member

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    That's really great to hear! We're going to enjoy your reports, try to snap some photographs to portrait the process. It's a shame that we don't get to see more examples from his work...
     
    2 people like this.
  16. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Is Chris willing to travel to DC?
     
  17. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Chris lives in Chicago and travels to Dallas regularly (at least some of the power behind the throne is here). I have never heard about him traveling to DC.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2013
  18. SonofGoldman

    SonofGoldman Active Member

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    Chris,

    How often are you in Dallas/and how often would someone have to schedule in advance for a first commission?
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    New York is as close as I get to DC. Have several DC clients but they travel to Chicago or Dallas or New York to meet.



    Approximately 6 days each month in Dallas.

    Not sure what you mean by schedule in advance. Do you want to know how long the process takes before delivery?
    At present we are selling suits for January delivery and beyond. Pretty much booked up for the rest of this year.
     
  20. SonofGoldman

    SonofGoldman Active Member

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    Is that nearly a consecutive week or broken up?

    I meant could I just drop in and get fitted/order my first commission/consultation or do I need to call in advance and we arrange a time say 2 weeks out etc.
     

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