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The Despos Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Aug 27, 2010.

  1. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Originally Posted by james_timothy

    This has to be right- the sharper shoulder just isn't what we're seeing in, for example, the cloth thread. So- Comrade, I imagine you like natural shoulders more than the sharp ones here. I do too, but sometimes when I put on a jacket with shoulders like that, I go... damn, this is nice.

    I have never said that about jackets with shoulders like that. I am a purist.
    Besides, nature has given me big shoulders.
     
  2. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
  3. james_timothy

    james_timothy Senior member

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    My shoulders slope worse than PG's, so one would imagine I might like them sometimes.

    My memory of one of those meetups was that, other than a cast, what you wore was barely noticeable. Given the context, that should be interpreted as: dressed very well and in such a way that the man outshone the clothes.
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2011
  4. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Thank your for the compliment.
    Evidently you missed the sword-cane.
     
  5. deepitm

    deepitm Senior member

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  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 21, 2012
    2 people like this.
  7. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I know this was posted quite a while ago but now that the thread has been revived I feel like I have to reply. Despos' shoulder work looks awesome. The jacket that was dissected by a tailor (link was posted some pages back) does have great looking (and well made) shoulders. And I'm sure he's able to make anything you specify...
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Chris is an excellent tailor, but an even better barista.
     
  9. Brendon

    Brendon Senior member

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    Hi All
    Chris Despos was responding to a psoter about the front not showing the shirt and tie underneath, this is a common problem with a lot of of made to measure suits. This is generated from the neck point. Straightening a coat will move and swing the forepart away towards the chest straightening the front edge and allowing the chest to have more definition and accentuating a narrower waist. It also allows the buttons to button up more easily. However it is much harder to fit . I am surprised this point, of what seems to be referred to as "open quarters" by the previous poster that Chris was responding to has not been stressed more by some of the forums experts. A straightened coat really was the culmination of 100 years of tailoring from the more frock coat origins of the suit. I had not heard of open quarters referred to in any of may tailor and cutter magazines going back to the 50's or in my collection of Cutting books going back to 1890's including JP Thorntons 1st and 2nd Editions, Caxtons The Modern Tailor Clothier.Outfitter 1st Editions onwards. So where does the term come from please. A few ex Savile Row tailors in their seventies and eighties I have talked to have not heard of the term. Where does it come from please?. When someone prefers an "open quarters" suit, most suits in the world would be like that as they are factory made as opposed to made by a tailor, cut by a cutter who providing they have the skill would tend to make a straighter suit. It is a point of difference in my opinion, that should be celebrated more as a sign of a quality cut.,
    I had my first younger customer the other day, who wanted an ill fitting suit just like the one he had on, tight all over, short so that the trousers look like daipers from beneath the coat, crooked with no chest, and so tight across the half back that horizontal lines appear across the back of the coat, like so many of the coats young and mature seem to wear asking for advice in the fit feedback threads. I am going to employ Jeffery D's pagoda shoulder instruction as I will need to find more length and maintain the illusion of he narrow shoulder. To do ottherwise and fit what I think is correct will be to lose a customer and to certainly get offside with his young partner.
    Brendon
     
  10. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I didn't read all of that, but straightening a neckpoint seems to throw more cloth towards the scye making the chest larger, not trimmer as you suggest. I think simply adjusting the front edge at a first fitting could fix a tie showing below the button point. I don't think adjusting a neck point is needed for that. Just thinking out loud.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When you straighten a shoulder by 1/4" it shifts the fronts forward at the hem almost 3/4", making the fronts closer and less open. It brings the skirt in closer on the hip too.
    It does create more cloth across the chest and gives more room across the back.

    Brendon, you seem fixated on straight cuts but doesn't it really depend on a clients figure and needs?
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, it is, isn't it.
     
  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  15. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I think it's mostly a term among online (lay) enthusiasts of tailoring, but here's Jeffery Diduch's post on the subject.
     
  16. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 25, 2012
  17. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 25, 2012
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    May I say, I admire your eloquent precision.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2012
  19. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Demosthenes had his small stones; I have my olives.
     
  20. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Senior member

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    I thought we had reached agreement elsewhere today to leave sex out of these discussions.
     

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