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The Despos Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Aug 27, 2010.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Men of the Ripped Cloth?


    - B


    The Breanish Conspiracy
     


  2. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You like it...the sleeves
    [​IMG]


    not in whether a sleeve line falls straight without distortion, which is table stakes for good bespoke. one would think.

    One would think, but, sadly, one would be wrong. Sleeves are something that the vast majority of us struggle a bit (or a lot) with, the back of them in particular. Chris cuts one of the most gloriously full sleeves I have ever seen and manages to balance them to the armhole so well that even after a few years of hanging on a shop hanger they are still impeccable.
     


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^
    listen to the wisdom of this man. Didn't I tell you!
     


  4. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    ^One day, I would like to experience the wisdom of you two.
     


  5. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    ^One day, I would like to experience the wisdom of you two.

    No homo? [​IMG]
     


  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Sleeves are something that the vast majority of us struggle a bit (or a lot) with, the back of them in particular.

    "Out, out, out damn divots we say!"

    [​IMG]

    "Oh, hi girls...nice job on the divots. You, too, Fluffy. Back to the match."

    [​IMG]


    - B
     


  7. George

    George Senior member

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    Fuckin' love fests...
     


  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Fuckin' love fests...

    Are you talking about the two bimbos above?

    [​IMG]

    I realize it could mean any pair in this thread, but I'm talking about the pair with four pairs.


    - B
     


  9. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Many of those old photographs of yachtie were also taken, I believe, while he was on a fitness improvement strategy that included weight loss. He was holding off alterations/recuts until he was closer to his goals.

    One of the things to look for in yachtie's pictures is that he is quite knowledgable and discerning about features or configurations that come from an earlier age. There is nothing RTW about his look (except the Aldens that typically shod his feet,) and that speaks well to Despos's ability to accommodate a client with ideas of his own. That's one of the things that custom or bespoke tailoring can be at it's best.

    - B


    this

    he wrote a lot on FNB while this process.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fuckin' love fests...

    All you need is love
     


  11. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Senior member

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    am i the only one to think that this particular one doesn't particularly flatter the wearer? it hangs stiffly and isn't sufficiently shaped -- an overly boxy, sack-like aesthetic that doesn't do the wearer any favors, particularly since he's on the short side.

    possibly a stylistic choice by the customer rather than of the tailor, but not an example that i would have picked for a flattering cut.


    ^If you click the link, you'll read that Yachtie requested a clean look. It's not what I prefer, but I think he looks great in it. And imo, to judge how flattering the cut is, you'd have to know what his body looks like, which we don't. Although, iirc, he has posted that he's not in the best of shape.

    fair enough, let me rephrase. i don't think it makes him look particularly good, no matter what his body type, and i still think the jacket hangs like a stiff "A".

    it is possible that the real issue is that he's not cut out for a DB.


    probably to some degree. the harsh lighting also probably doesn't help overall.

    but angle and lighting aside, you can see that the width of the jacket at the bottom of the skirt is practically as wide as his shoulders, which contributes to the "A" effect.

    the skirt also seems to flare out from the button point. which makes me wonder if a lower button point, or one that is 1 cm less tight, would have prevented the "A" flare, and whether a slightly more built-up shoulder would have helped balance things out.

    the stiffness is likely the result of the structure.

    in the grand scheme of things i suspect that it's primarily the wearer's physique that imposed a certain number of constraints, and despos did the best he could to work around them.

    regardless, it's still not an example that i would have picked. i found the one posted earlier in this thread (p2 or thereabouts) much more compelling, even though, admittedly, it's on a mannequin.

    despos, it would be great if you could comment. if it's awkward because you don't want to publicly comment on a client, that's perfectly understandable. but if i am making incorrect calls on the technicalities as i see them, your perspective would be valuable.


    He's posing for a picture.

    and?

    the sky is blue.


    Well, it's not how he would normally stand is it?

    When you are being fitted an experience tailor will try to get you to stand as naturally as the situation allows.


    The danger of judging a piece of tailoring by a still picture in terms of something like "stiffness" is that whatever you observe might have nothing to do with the tailoring. It's simply too vague and subjective a measure.

    I think the key is that it's hard to find anything 'wrong' with the suit. Sleeves like that, for example, are pretty rare in RTW.

    IIRC,that coat of Yachtie's pictured is made out of Harrison's Moonbeam cloth which is very soft.

    Many of those old photographs of yachtie were also taken, I believe, while he was on a fitness improvement strategy that included weight loss. He was holding off alterations/recuts until he was closer to his goals.

    Aportnoy did something similar, and in the process replaced a lot of RTW/MTM pieces with bespoke numbers.

    Online candid photographs of the work of good tailors are few and far between. The impression that they give, particularly for those makers not at the higher volume marks, will be skewed to their most enthusiastic vanity photography customers. I suppose that can work for or against a particular tailor.

    One of the things to look for in yachtie's pictures is that he is quite knowledgable and discerning about features or configurations that come from an earlier age. There is nothing RTW about his look (except the Aldens that typically shod his feet,) and that speaks well to Despos's ability to accommodate a client with ideas of his own. That's one of the things that custom or bespoke tailoring can be at it's best.

    - B


    [​IMG]
     


  12. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    ^I love Alonzo.
    No homo? [​IMG]
    Not as far as I know.
    All you need is love
    One day when teaching high school, I finished a short talk on the importance of love for work, relationships, etc. with the statement, "No matter what the question, love is the answer." One lovable smartass said something like, "That's great! I have a math test next period, and I'll just put 'love' down for everything."
     


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    guys -- i thought we were debating and admiring the finer points of the work an acclaimed tailor, no? i don't hear anyone saying that it looks like RTW. we are well past that point in the conversation.

    saw similar comments in the Diller debacle thread and i'm afraid i don't get it. surely we need to apply a higher bar in these discussions than a blunt (and binary) "doesn't look like RTW"? i'm more interested in the finer judgment calls that a tailor has to make when confronted with challenging circumstances. not in whether a sleeve line falls straight without distortion, which, as i said in the Diller thread, is table stakes for good bespoke. one would think.


    I wasn't commending the sleeves simply because they don't look like what's typical for RTW. They are better than what you almost ever see in RTW and, as jefferyd points out, rare in any case. They fall from the shoulder point to the wrist in one sweeping curve, without any snagging or rumpling. This is exceptional in my book. My only nit to pick with the sleeves is that it looks as if they could be tapered more toward the hem.
     


  14. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Was flipping through the Flickr set and was reminded how much I love this coat. As with most of the pieces of this Flickr, it would be great to see how something like this looked on the client. I would imagine it looked fantastic.
     


  15. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    "Out, out, out damn divots we say!"

    [​IMG]

    "Oh, hi girls...nice job on the divots. You, too, Fluffy. Back to the match."

    [​IMG]


    - B


    I usually prefer "classy," but these lasses are trashy in quite a delightful way. Also delightful: two parts class, one part trash. Oh, Christina. You never disappoint...

    [​IMG]
     


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