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The Despos Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Aug 27, 2010.

  1. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    The key to a good derail is clarity of taste in what should be sent over the cliff, engine belching smoke and passengers screaming. What was going on here wasn't that. - B
    Please, I posted Agnew. That's worth a crisp fiver right there. But srsly, I am enjoying learning about Despos style and there were some great pics around pages 4 and 5.
     


  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I do give you props for Agnew.

    Here's a blog post by the guy who forced Breanish into Despos's shears.


    - B
     


  3. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    The key to a good derail is clarity of taste in what should be sent over the cliff, engine belching smoke and passengers screaming.

    What was going on here wasn't that.


    - B


    Don't get me wrong, I fully appreciate it, the quality derail. Even the ones full of teh suckitude.
     


  4. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    You're a spunky little smurf, I'll give you that.

    [​IMG]

    I'm not disgusted by you, but I'm also not feigning my frustration. You launch criticisms that don't appear to have any objective basis, throwing around terms like "shoulder seam" and "drape" without knowing what they mean, and sending up rules of fit that are merely figments of your imagination. Meanwhile you attach adjectives like "sexy" and "fantastic" to something like a lapel without being able to explain what actually makes it special to you.

    Have you considered that I agree with Vox a lot more than I agree with you simply because Vox is right a lot more than you are?


    Allow me: lately, you do come across as a bit more arrogant than usual. Not blind, just a bit more arrogant. Perhaps that time of the month?

    Another drape argument...

    [​IMG]


    Best drape I've seen in a while.
     


  5. literasyme

    literasyme Senior member

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    Best drape I've seen in a while.

    Yeah, but what about the divots?
     


  6. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Is this to mean Foo>Bull ?
    Sure.
    Maybe in terms of law school. Although Brown has produced some good people, a couple of them highly regarded here, one more for his pictures and the other for his words... And there's been evidence here that not all of GU's products have been stellar.
    Pictures of Despos work? Anyone? Anyone?
    We are waiting for Aportnoy to steel his chin against the hords.
    Warning...Despos Content...Warning! "The earnest and affable Chris Despos (not yet out of his 30s), of Despos Custom Tailoring, in Dallas, comes to New York to spend his two-week vacation studying patternmaking with the great master tailor Henry Stewart." - Professional Clothing Writer, G. Bruce Boyer, in Town & Country Magazine, November 1991 The NYT obit from 1993 about Stewart. More and more on Stewart.
    Thank you. Sad how old the people working w/ Stewart were. The "baby" in the second link would be 69 now. Of course, the others mention Shattuck and Despos. Wonder if he had any other young'uns workin' with 'im.
    Alright, another coat to help a derailed thread: (http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...php?f=4&t=8592) [​IMG]
    Thank you. That is very nice.
    I do give you props for Agnew. Here's a blog post by the guy who forced Breanish into Despos's shears.
    Thank you.
     


  7. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    Alright, another coat to help a derailed thread: (http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...php?f=4&t=8592)
    [​IMG]


    am i the only one to think that this particular one doesn't particularly flatter the wearer? it hangs stiffly and isn't sufficiently shaped -- an overly boxy, sack-like aesthetic that doesn't do the wearer any favors, particularly since he's on the short side.

    possibly a stylistic choice by the customer rather than of the tailor, but not an example that i would have picked for a flattering cut.
     


  8. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    ^If you click the link, you'll read that Yachtie requested a clean look. It's not what I prefer, but I think he looks great in it. And imo, to judge how flattering the cut is, you'd have to know what his body looks like, which we don't. Although, iirc, he has posted that he's not in the best of shape.
     


  9. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    fair enough, let me rephrase. i don't think it makes him look particularly good, no matter what his body type, and i still think the jacket hangs like a stiff "A".

    it is possible that the real issue is that he's not cut out for a DB.
     


  10. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    i still think the jacket hangs like a stiff "A".

    I see this too.

    I also wonder if it has anything to do with the camera angle....
     


  11. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    I see this too.

    I also wonder if it has anything to do with the camera angle....


    probably to some degree. the harsh lighting also probably doesn't help overall.

    but angle and lighting aside, you can see that the width of the jacket at the bottom of the skirt is practically as wide as his shoulders, which contributes to the "A" effect.

    the skirt also seems to flare out from the button point. which makes me wonder if a lower button point, or one that is 1 cm less tight, would have prevented the "A" flare, and whether a slightly more built-up shoulder would have helped balance things out.

    the stiffness is likely the result of the structure.

    in the grand scheme of things i suspect that it's primarily the wearer's physique that imposed a certain number of constraints, and despos did the best he could to work around them.

    regardless, it's still not an example that i would have picked. i found the one posted earlier in this thread (p2 or thereabouts) much more compelling, even though, admittedly, it's on a mannequin.

    despos, it would be great if you could comment. if it's awkward because you don't want to publicly comment on a client, that's perfectly understandable. but if i am making incorrect calls on the technicalities as i see them, your perspective would be valuable.
     


  12. George

    George Senior member

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    He's posing for a picture.
     


  13. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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  14. George

    George Senior member

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    and? the sky is blue.
    Well, it's not how he would normally stand is it? When you are being fitted an experience tailor will try to get you to stand as naturally as the situation allows.
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    and? the sky is blue.
    The danger of judging a piece of tailoring by a still picture in terms of something like "stiffness" is that whatever you observe might have nothing to do with the tailoring. It's simply too vague and subjective a measure.
     


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