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The Despos Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Aug 27, 2010.

  1. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    . They fall from the shoulder point to the wrist in one sweeping curve, without any snagging or rumpling....
    At the risk of sounding like a fanboy... These sleeves not only lack the obvious faults that we see very often, namely divots, pitch problems, and what is often misinterpreted as pitch problems but is really a problem with the way the shape of the sleeve is balanced to the shape of the armhole, but there are more subtle details which are not obvious to the casual observer but quite obvious to me. The lower part of the front of the sleeve requires a certain amount of fullness and a certain handling to get it right and we often see sleeves that are too dry and that don't "close" (not sure how to explain that simply). For some reason the English are more guilty than others of this sin. So what's the big deal, if it's not so obvious to the casual observer? Well, look at Yachtie's right arm- he's holding it away from his body which is causing very minor draw lines on the sleeve. If the front notch area of the sleeve were too dry, as many of the sleeves we have seen recently, this drawing would be really bad- they would appear to twist a whole lot but they don't. It gives him a better range of movement without disturbing the sleeve. Anyway, it elevates it from a sleeve that is merely "correct" or "without obvious fault" to a sleeve which is quite excellent. And George, if the love is too much for you, I invite you to search out the divot thread. And while you're at it, you could dig out a photo of Manton's latest coat from A&S. IIRC, that a good example of what I mean by a "dry" sleeve; I just don't remember where to find it.
     
  2. George

    George Senior member

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    And George, if the love is too much for you, I invite you to search out the divot thread. And while you're at it, you could dig out a photo of Manton's latest coat from A&S. IIRC, that a good example of what I mean by a "dry" sleeve; I just don't remember where to find it.
    Did anyone ever tell you that you have a cruel streak. [​IMG]
     
  3. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    thanks, jeffery - this is the kind of commentary that is helpful.
     
  4. George

    George Senior member

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    thanks, jeffery - this is the kind of commentary that is helpful.
    I can see you being a bad influence on here. I shall have to start canvassing for a ban. By PM of course.
     
  5. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    The lower part of the front of the sleeve requires a certain amount of fullness and a certain handling to get it right and we often see sleeves that are too dry and that don't "close" (not sure how to explain that simply). For some reason the English are more guilty than others of this sin. So what's the big deal, if it's not so obvious to the casual observer? Well, look at Yachtie's right arm- he's holding it away from his body which is causing very minor draw lines on the sleeve. If the front notch area of the sleeve were too dry, as many of the sleeves we have seen recently, this drawing would be really bad- they would appear to twist a whole lot but they don't.

    I -think- I understand- perhaps you have a few other pictures to help illustrate what you mean by too dry? Thanks Jeffery.
     
  6. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I -think- I understand- perhaps you have a few other pictures to help illustrate what you mean by too dry? Thanks Jeffery.

    I don't think it would be obvious without a very thorough explanation, and I'm not sure I'm in the mood for the sort of melee that usually starts when pointing out faults in other people's garments. Besides, this is Chris' thread; let's just say he makes a killer sleeve and leave it there.
     
  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I'm wearing RTW, non-Despos sleeves.

    Their shape and fit are pedestrian.

    No divots or pitch problems, though, so if I wore them in Chris's shop, he would have to pick one or more of several possible other reasons to throw me out.

    This is a good point in this thread to introduce the word, "kimchi." This word is actually an acronym for the Japanese sentence, "Get a breath mint, you barbarian."

    - B
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    This is a good point in this thread to introduce the word, "kimchi." This word is actually an acronym for the Japanese sentence, "Get a breath mint, you barbarian."

    - B


    this thread delivers
     
  9. George

    George Senior member

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    I'm wearing RTW, non-Despos sleeves. Their shape and fit are pedestrian. No divots or pitch problems, though, so if I wore them in Chris's shop, he would have to pick one or more of several possible other reasons to throw me out. This is a good point in this thread to introduce the word, "kimchi." This word is actually an acronym for the Japanese sentence, "Get a breath mint, you barbarian." - B
    Kimchi, has the taste and consistency of Yak vomit.
     
  10. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    Kimchi, has the taste and consistency of Yak vomit.

    Glad you are familiar with the taste of yak vomit. So what are you saying about Koreans and Vox who like the stuff so much?
     
  11. LynahFaithful

    LynahFaithful Senior member

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    Kimchi, has the taste and consistency of Yak vomit.

    Yikes...you would know that?
     
  12. George

    George Senior member

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    Glad you are familiar with the taste of yak vomit. So what are you saying about Koreans and Vox who like the stuff so much?
    Eh?
     
  13. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    Eh?

    huh?
     
  14. George

    George Senior member

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  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is a good point in this thread to introduce the word, "kimchi." This word is actually an acronym for the Japanese sentence, "Get a breath mint, you barbarian."

    The Japanese and Koreans are both barbarians, silly.
     
  16. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    The Japanese and Koreans are both barbarians, silly.

    So are Manchus.


    - B
     
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    So are Manchus.

    Oh, no arguments there.
     
  18. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    The Japanese and Koreans are both barbarians, silly.

    Have you seen a China man at the dinner table?
     
  19. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Have you seen a China man at the dinner table?

    I used to assume that the Commies stole Chinese culture from the Chinese.

    But then, I met people from Taiwan.

    So, that theory went out the window.


    - B
     
  20. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    Oh, no arguments there.

    That would make a great sig.
     

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