The Definitive MANBAG Thread, Part II: 2014~

[flowcharts]

They're often not 100% avoidable, but those are especially bad

 

[ojaw]

Trying to keep it under $1k.

For that amount you should be able to avoid presser footosis.
Troll through here, you'll lots of references to well regarded makers.

 

[Reloc8]

So, I am lucky to be able to walk to work, about 2.5 km. Until now I would walk in in my work clothes (suited and booted) but these days I prefer to wear casuals on the way in and get changed in my office.

I own some nice casual bags but none of them were quire the thing for when I had a bigger load. I love my filson "briefcase" but stuffed with files and other stuff the single shoulder carry was killing me.

I decided to go the backpacke route, and wanted a bag-for-life smart casual style Saw this Troubadour bag and liked the look of it. It arrived a couple of weeks ago and I'm very happy. The leather is lovely (veg tanned with a water resist treatment) and the bag very comfortable. The only issue I have is that despite claiming the material the back of the pack is made from prevents swamp back I have not found this to be the case at least on very hot days (in Ireland 22 - 24C is "very hot".

Another point worth mentioning, which should be obvious from the pics, is that there is minimal organisation. You get a padded laptop slot which will fit a 15 inch laptop. Note, this us unfortunately not padded at the bottom, ie if you drop or put down the back with any appreciae impact there is not much between your laptop and the surface the bag lands on. This doesn't bother me. You get a front pouch with elasticated slot for your phone or similar shaped object and a couple of pen loops. Inside the logo patch affixed to the laptop slot can be used to loop a cable/cables (its only stitched in the middle) which is quite handy. Otherwise its just one big compartment, which for this kind of bag is what I wanted. The capacity is given as 21 litres by the makers which seems correct to me.

(Edit : there Is a quick access zip pocket shown in the pics too which I forgot about. I use it for my keys for which its perfect. It's not big enough for much else. For example neither my phone (admittedly Samsung note 9) or wallet (bellroy slim sleeve) will fit in it. I also put my Sony ear bud headphones in their case in there (Sony wx-1000 for size reference).

Straps are very nice (leather surface, the same molded foam type material as the back underneath. The bag is very comfortable to wear.

The lining is some kind of synthetic. It feels quite pleasant and "lux". No idea how it will wear but the bag has a 5 year warranty and the makers offer to repair at cost if possible for life after that, so I assume pretty durable.

The other option I considered was the Frank Clegg Hampton Backpack in chocolate. I am a big fan of his (i own a couple of briefcases and a duffle) but preferred the troubadour because:

- its slightly lighter, probably because the back is not leather.
- I did think the back panel of the troubadour would be more breathable. Not sure I was right but sweating through a shirt onto a leather pack would not be great for the leather over time.
- I didn't like the front pocket on the Clegg which has faux buckles and is secured by magnetic snap closures.
- I somewhat but by a clear margin preferred the look of the troubadour.
- the straps of the troubadour are far more adjustable in the "orthodox" way for a modern backpack. The clegg backpack has rang buckles to adjust the straps.
- I felt the Troubadour would cope with rain better (Ireland remember).
- The troubadour had a luggage pass through (very minor advantage).

Price was not a deciding factor but I was pleased that the troubadour worked out at 690 euros shipped, just over half the cost of the Clegg. I know Frank.Clegg make great bags, and I own 3 of them, so I'm not suggesting the Clegg backpack is not worth the money.

That said the Troubadour is also clearly of a decent quality (I can't say how far off "Clegg standards" it might be but it is a quality leather backpack and represents value in my opinion.

I would far prefer if Troubadour had not branded the front of the bag but it is not a major issue in the overall because I like the bag so much otherwise.

Edit : this is the Generation Slipstream. You can get the same model made from mostly synthetic vs leather for a lot less.

 

[Sartorium]

Looking for a leather weekender. Does anyone have long-time experience with Ghurka/Herz/Frank Clegg or any other bag they'd recommend under 1500? Anyone had a bag from any of these brands break down?

 

[ojaw]

Can't imagine the Clegg bag breaking down. I had the small travel duffle and sold it on, the shape of it just felt weird to me, like an oversized purse - might've been better scaled up to one of the larger sizes.

 

[fazalmajid]

@Sartorium

Old Ghurka were excellent quality but at some point they were bought out and the new owners applied the classic private equity "quality fade" model of cutting corners (e.g. made in China) while keeping the price high and running the brand into the ground. Reportedly there is new ownership that is trying to return to the old standard, but I would be wary. Price for price, Clegg is a no-brainer over Ghurka.

For under $1500, you can get a bespoke duffel made by Glaser Designs (the actual color of the natural quebracho-tanned leather is paler, but over six months it will darken to a light-medium brown). I would imagine Clegg is the same quality and possibly more stylish in an old-school understated way, but Glaser's rectangular design is supremely practical. Glaser has customers in the oil prospection and drilling business, and their bags are exceptionally hard-wearing. I've heard many good things about Herz but I've never actually owned one of their pieces.

My favorite weekender is the Octovo Weekender in full veg-tanned gray leather, with titanium hardware and built-in laptop pouch. Their site keeps going up and down, and I have no idea if they are still in business

One option out of left field is fully bespoke work by Atelier Subdivise in France. Stéphane Lemaître is a craftsman. His pieces lean towards heavy, not elfin, with 3mm thick leather from local tanneries, saddle-stitched with linen thread. I'm not sure he could deliver a weekender for $1500, specially with shipping or customs, but it would definitely be built for life and unique.

 

[Sartorium]

@Sartorium

Old Ghurka were excellent quality but at some point they were bought out and the new owners applied the classic private equity "quality fade" model of cutting corners (e.g. made in China) while keeping the price high and running the brand into the ground. Reportedly there is new ownership that is trying to return to the old standard, but I would be wary. Price for price, Clegg is a no-brainer over Ghurka.

For under $1500, you can get a bespoke duffel made by Glaser Designs (the actual color of the natural quebracho-tanned leather is paler, but over six months it will darken to a light-medium brown). I would imagine Clegg is the same quality and possibly more stylish in an old-school understated way, but Glaser's rectangular design is supremely practical. Glaser has customers in the oil prospection and drilling business, and their bags are exceptionally hard-wearing. I've heard many good things about Herz but I've never actually owned one of their pieces.

My favorite weekender is the Octovo Weekender in full veg-tanned gray leather, with titanium hardware and built-in laptop pouch. Their site keeps going up and down, and I have no idea if they are still in business

One option out of left field is fully bespoke work by Atelier Subdivise in France. Stéphane Lemaître is a craftsman. His pieces lean towards heavy, not elfin, with 3mm thick leather from local tanneries, saddle-stitched with linen thread. I'm not sure he could deliver a weekender for $1500, specially with shipping or customs, but it would definitely be built for life and unique.

Thanks, this is all very good info. There's something about the shape of the Clegg/Glaser that feels too sterile to me, I don't know if it's just the squareness or what. Do you have bags, or know anyone who does, made by Stéphane?

 

[fazalmajid]

No, I have a bespoke eyeglass case and camera case from him, no bags.

What shape do you want in a weekender? Trapezoidal like the Octovo? Cylindrical?

How about this: https://www.tusting.co.uk/product/chellington/

 

[Sartorium]

No, I have a bespoke eyeglass case and camera case from him, no bags.

What shape do you want in a weekender? Trapezoidal like the Octovo? Cylindrical?

How about this: https://www.tusting.co.uk/product/chellington/

I quite like this, but it's a little small for a travel bag. I'm not quite sure what shape I want, I think the Clegg bags just remind me of an old briefcase my father had and so I get a bit of a stiff vibe from it. I think very square bags look too inorganic to me, I don't hate cylindrical ones.

As an aside, does anyone have any experience with Go Forth Goods? Definitely a bit more rustic looking than the suggestions so far but intrigued by the description of the construction methods at what seems like a fairly good value pricepoint.

 

[ojaw]

As an aside, does anyone have any experience with Go Forth Goods? Definitely a bit more rustic looking than the suggestions so far but intrigued by the description of the construction methods at what seems like a fairly good value pricepoint.

No experience with them but I don't care for that mottled look. It's like that with waxed cottons as well - I have products from Carradice (bike stuff) that is waxed cotton and is a nice, even shade of black that ages wonderfully over time and usage to a lighter kind of reddish brown.

 

[CloudLi]

No, I have a bespoke eyeglass case and camera case from him, no bags.

What shape do you want in a weekender? Trapezoidal like the Octovo? Cylindrical?

How about this: https://www.tusting.co.uk/product/chellington/

Are there some brands not known by many but widely available? Looking for some bargain deals. Recently discovered Duluth pack and Coronado Leather.

 

[ojaw]

Are there some brands not known by many but widely available?

Is this possible? If it's widely available surely it's widely known.

 

[CloudLi]

Is this possible? If it's widely available surely it's widely known.

It's all relative. ie. Tusting is widely available but not widely known compare to filson. The brands I mentioned also seems less known but sales volume probably more than Clegg. Anyone has experience with RM Williams bag and King Ranch?

 

[CloudLi]

Anyone have experience with Glenroyal? Does Glenroyal use PU leather for its bag?

 

[Nyarlathotep]

I carry tote bags, usually over the shoulder, and I'm looking for a more permanent solution compared to band totes that usually crap out after a while, I've had my eye on this: