The Definitive MANBAG Thread, Part II: 2014~

[jorijori]

Hi gents,

Why do you guys think of Issara? - they're a social enterprise designing minimalist, luxury quality leather goods and place a big emphasis on ethical production (which is a nice change!).

I received a newsletter about their new collection which I thought you might be interested in (the early bird specials are very attractive). The concept is cool too - looks like they're embedded with a tracking device to track down lost items.

 

[Nightfish]

Hi gents,

Why do you guys think of Issara? - they're a social enterprise designing minimalist, luxury quality leather goods and place a big emphasis on ethical production (which is a nice change!).

I received a newsletter about their new collection which I thought you might be interested in (the early bird specials are very attractive). The concept is cool too - looks like they're embedded with a tracking device to track down lost items.

Hi, I actually have the weekender of Isaara. Found it earlier this year online and have done a few trips with it in the last few months. I'm very happy with it so far. My only other leather bags are the Linjer ones, so my collection is small and my knowledge about leather is limited.

But the Isaara one works well for me. Fits well into the overhead bin of the airplane, has enough pockets and space to hold my stuff and has a nice leather. Overall quality is good and nothing broke etc. Only downside for me is that the shoulder strap could be a little bit wider. The owner Rosh is helpful and friendly as well and she is involved with social programs to help the community. For anyone interested in their campaign, I can recommend them and I'm sure they will send out something nice.

 

[RockDove]

Hi everyone!

We have learnt a lot from Part 1 and 2 of this amzingly insightful thread.

We also just went LIVE on Indiegogo with our first product: The Personalized Soft Briefcase which allows you to personalize the design and finish of the bag to suit your needs and taste. You can check out our campaign at: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/...case-by-rockdove-design-style--2/x/14765785#/

We would love for you to join the conversation on our affiliate thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/530636/...iefcase-by-rockdove-official-affiliate-thread

















Would love to hear your thoughts!

Sara

 

[imank]

@rockdove - posted on your affiliate thread. I'd be curious to see wallets if you bring out any. Good luck!
@jorijori- have seen their campaign and was considering going in for the weekender. @nightfish - thanks for the review, I think I'll take the plunge - the navy looks purrdddyy

 

[notwithit]

Anybody know of a decent-looking laptop bag that has exterior slip pockets on each end? I'm looking for something that can hold a water bottle on one side and a sunglasses case on the other. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[imank]

@nightfish @jorijori have you guys got any experience with Issara's small goods? I'm considering getting the clutch from their Kickstarter for the missus and it would be good to have some intel!

 

[imank]

try knomo? they have some great functional products.

 

[notwithit]



try knomo? they have some great functional products.

Thanks, I think the Hugh laptop messenger is almost what I'm looking for. Frankly I'd rather pay about 3x the price for a nicer-looking version, but that may suffice in the near term.

 

[notwithit]

Apparently sometimes questions just answer themselves.

Woorich x The Hill-Side briefcase:

Also comes in blue:

Figured I'd order both so I can check them out in person and then keep the one I prefer.

 

[beyondmars2020]

Hi gents,

I'm looking for a versatile, stylish, and durable bag that can take me to work and to the gym.

I work in an image conscious profession and sometimes wear a suit and tie. I carry my 15" laptop back and forth everyday, as well as gym shoes and clothes. I ditched my car and get around using Uber and public transit, so weight is also an issue. A shoulder strap is mandatory.

I currently carry around a slim leather briefcase (Linjer soft briefcase) and an Adidas duffel bag. I look like a mess.

My dream bags (at least in style, perhaps a little large for everyday use) (generally sleek and minimal):


Louis Vuitton Neo Kendall in Damier Infini:

Want Essentials La Vie Douglas Holdall:

Hermes Victoria:

Unfortunately, my budget is $700. It seems impossible to find anything that has real quality, nevermind style.

Here are the only options I've found within budget that are full grained leather:

1. Issara Weekender ($549) in Navy:

http://issara.co/shop/weekender/?colour=navy

My Comments: A true duffel shape is a little out of place at work (though a leather duffel has to be better than my current Adidas nylon duffel lol).


2. Korchmar Jefferson Duffel ($500) in Mahogany:

https://www.korchmar.com/collection...on-l1247-excursion-duffel?variant=26414287175

My Comments: The shape of this bag is a little bit more like a briefcase, but the styling is American rather than European. Can anybody speak to the quality of Korchmar?


3. Hildestahl Medium ($300):

http://www.hildestahl.com/handbags/medium.html

My Comments: Well priced, but I've never heard of this brand and the styling is a little busy.


4. Dsptch Gym/Work Bag ($200):

https://www.dsptch.com/collections/packs/products/gym-work-bag-black

My Comments: Very functional (including a padded laptop compartment and separate shoe compartment), but the nylon doesn't match well with a suit.

Anybody have feedback, thoughts, other options? All help is greatly appreciated.

 

[ebayhtl]



Hi gents,

I'm looking for a versatile, stylish, and durable bag that can take me to work and to the gym.

Anybody have feedback, thoughts, other options? All help is greatly appreciated.

I have a Mismo soft work and a Mulberry duffle (small sized). Both fit the description you gave - I'm happy with both. The former already fits into your budget and you'll likely find both on sale in the upcoming sales at various places. Mismo alao may have a few others that fit your description, so check them out.

 

[YourMadeInItaly]

Hi gents,

I'm looking for a versatile, stylish, and durable bag that can take me to work and to the gym.

...

It seems impossible to find anything that has real quality, nevermind style.

...

Anybody have feedback, thoughts, other options? All help is greatly appreciated.

I think I can help, nothing is impossible ;-).

Check PM

 

[beyondmars2020]

Thanks for all of your suggestions.

I just came across Oppermann London, and it looks like their Palissy 25 hour fits my needs perfectly.

Hi gents,

I'm looking for a versatile, stylish, and durable bag that can take me to work and to the gym.

I work in an image conscious profession and sometimes wear a suit and tie. I carry my 15" laptop back and forth everyday, as well as gym shoes and clothes. I ditched my car and get around using Uber and public transit, so weight is also an issue. A shoulder strap is mandatory.

I currently carry around a slim leather briefcase (Linjer soft briefcase) and an Adidas duffel bag. I look like a mess.

My dream bags (at least in style, perhaps a little large for everyday use) (generally sleek and minimal):


Louis Vuitton Neo Kendall in Damier Infini:

Want Essentials La Vie Douglas Holdall:

Hermes Victoria:

Unfortunately, my budget is $700. It seems impossible to find anything that has real quality, nevermind style.

Here are the only options I've found within budget that are full grained leather:

1. Issara Weekender ($549) in Navy:

http://issara.co/shop/weekender/?colour=navy

My Comments: A true duffel shape is a little out of place at work (though a leather duffel has to be better than my current Adidas nylon duffel lol).


2. Korchmar Jefferson Duffel ($500) in Mahogany:

https://www.korchmar.com/collection...on-l1247-excursion-duffel?variant=26414287175

My Comments: The shape of this bag is a little bit more like a briefcase, but the styling is American rather than European. Can anybody speak to the quality of Korchmar?


3. Hildestahl Medium ($300):

http://www.hildestahl.com/handbags/medium.html

My Comments: Well priced, but I've never heard of this brand and the styling is a little busy.


4. Dsptch Gym/Work Bag ($200):

https://www.dsptch.com/collections/packs/products/gym-work-bag-black

My Comments: Very functional (including a padded laptop compartment and separate shoe compartment), but the nylon doesn't match well with a suit.

Anybody have feedback, thoughts, other options? All help is greatly appreciated.

 

[zazaza]

Can you let us know what you think of the Oppermann?
That bag looks awesome.

 

[ParkerPierpont]

I took the time to read through this thread, and see if I'd be contributing anything new - and I think I might be.

I definitely don't have the expertise that @rach2jlc does with seasonal change in brands, but I think that my expertise as a craftsman may contribute to the body of knowledge offered here in this thread. From what I read previously, that seems to be what the intention of this thread was, and I feel that much of the information below will not change with the seasons. It should serve as a reference for you to help judge a brand's current quality by yourself.

Full disclosure, (as if the red "Affiliate Vendor" label doesn't mark me as biased),
I sell my work and I do so to make a living. My bias will always be somewhat in line with what has already been said, especially regarding custom manufacturing, and Hermès being the pinnacle of craftsmanship in leather bag making.

This also means that I have educated myself, and been educated by several amazing mentors, that I feel are some of the best craftspeople around today. I am by no means some sort of whiz-kid prodigy, but I have deliberately and consistently dug for information on bag making and leather craft in general for the better part of 5 years through other makers, brand exhibitions, french textbooks, suppliers, and friends in the industry. As such, I feel that I have a firm grasp on what is defined, and what is subjective about quality in (leather) bag-making, to an extent.

My limitations are: that I don't care to know about anything less than the best, and I immediately disregard things that aren't made from leather - for no other reason than that I'm not interested in it myself. I can, however, admire the genius of many of Tumi's products and the thought and care that goes into designing them to be so functional. I can also find the genius in many of the minimally-designed bags, and other bags that are really great options for what they are. I'm just not knowledgable about their brands or their techniques, or if they price well or not.

I don't really know where to start, so I'm going to jump right in:
The whole "Well-Made" thing:

Many will never buy a hand stitched bag, partly because I seem to find that many people don't really know what this means. Perhaps I've misjudged the knowledge base that this community has, but I failed to see an explicit, detailed explanation of quality craftsmanship, which I feel can be dangerous from a consumer's standpoint. I think that this type of situation has left a void in our thread where quality could somewhat be 'subjective,' when, in reality, there are a few basic tenets that are easily identified, and extremely important. There are also some common-sense answers that I'd like to solidify that have been previously brought up in somewhat contextual conversation, but haven't been defined.

• On the use of glue: everyone uses glue. The use of glue is not relevant to bag construction for the consumer. It is often used to hold a bag together during stitching. It also moonlights as a sealant in the small gap between the edge of the stitching line and the edges of the bag so that water and other contaminants have to go through an initial layer of resistance before testing the integrity of the stitching - this careful use of glue is a hallmark of good craftsmanship, however, when done correctly, you will not notice it - especially in bags with finished edges (we'll-cover edges later.)
• On the use of glue without stitching: this is not a hard and fast rule, but a conditional one - seams and linings shouldn't be attached without stitches in any area that is structurally important. Structurally important is defined as: two panels coming together, or the attachment of a handle or strap. Also, the tops of bags are often where linings attach, and if there is a lining, there should be stitching along the top edge of the bag.

• On "Hand Stitched": Do not listen to the sales associates at the boutique that you've gone to. I've had Mulberry SA's literally tell me and my poor mother that their goods are hand stitched in England by their own artisans (I'm sure it was just inexperience - but trying to prove a point here). Everything that you buy at a mall or a store is automatically not hand-stitched. It just isn't, unless you walk into an Hermès boutique. I believe that the answer that many brands teach their associates to use at this time is that their goods are "hand guided" machine stitched. This is clear, and correct, and in my opinion, honest. Hand-stitched gives the impression, in my opinion that there is someone stitching something with their hands, and should be reserved for only goods that are mostly hand stitched, for example, Hermès products are mostly hand stitched - and completely hand stitched in the important areas, like structural seams and almost all exterior places.
• Why does Hand stitching matter: I'll spare you the romantic love affair I have with the somewhat overly complex art of sewing leather by hand and give you the bare-bones quantitative difference between hand-stitching and machine stitching - hand stitching is way stronger. How much stronger - you ask? It depends on the situation, but almost always at least twice as strong. The thread isn't actually stronger as much as the way it's sewn uses two threads that lock between every stitch as they pass each other. There are multiple ways of doing a proper saddle stitch, and much mis-information about it exists - but basically, they all have the benefit of using two threads that create a tandem, interlocking seam that will hold strong in the event that a stitch is somehow worn loose or popped. I've had to "unstitch" to a poorly executed hand stitch many times, and it takes forever. You cannot simply pop a stitch and pull the pieces apart like you can with machine-sewn items. It literally requires a precise hand and diligence to undo well-executed hand stitching to the point where I dread making a mistake mostly because I have to undo the line of stitching I've made - and only somewhat because I have to re-stitch. In my opinion, hand stitching in bags is almost infinitely stronger, as you have to break hundreds more stitches in order to effectively destroy a seam.
  • 

• On edges: edges will peel these days as brands have started to put this rubbery goop on the side of their seams and call it a 'painted edge.' You will almost always find a place on designer bags in the store (if you look around) that already have their edges peeling, or have messy edge paint. Either double check the exact one that you buy, or find a bag with turned seams that have no exposed or finished edges. Another option is to super-glue the peeling edge lacquer that keeps happening on these so-called 'well-made' items a year or so after you buy it. The reason that it peels isn't because the edge lacquer is bad (though it is kind of plastic-y feeling), it's that the manufacturer hasn't cleaned the dried glue off of the edges from when they constructed the bag, and it has only slick surface to stick to. If you want paint to stick for a long time, you can't expect it to adhere well to dried glue. It will peel off eventually. Most high quality edges are dyed by hand, heat treated, then waxed an polished. It is a very complex process that doesn't really need explaining right now - but long story short, there wouldn't be anything that could 'peel off' of the edge. The edge is simply leather that has been impregnated with wax and then polished through several processes.

That's all I'm going to cover tonight, but I'll continue to add if anyone finds this useful.