1. Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  2. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 7 : Suit and Shirt, Courtesy of iTailor

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 7th auction of the year is for a MTM suit and shirt, courtesy of iTailor. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

The Definitive MANBAG Thread, Part II: 2014~

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by rach2jlc, Oct 8, 2014.

  1. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,902
    Likes Received:
    905
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    Monaco
    After five years, 2800+ replies and nearly half a million views, let's start a new chapter to the DEFINITIVE MANBAG thread.

    Here is the original:
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/115841/the-definitive-manbag-thread-part-i-2009-2014/0_100

    What's changed since I started the original thread? Well, Marc Jacobs, Dolce&Gabbana, Lambertson Truex, CK Collection, etc. have either gone under, changed their manufacture, or altered themselves entirely. Prada and Gucci are totally different animals now. CoSTUME NATIONAL went from goth ninja to hobo; Yohji collaborated with Hermes. Versace hired Plokhov, then got rid of him and went back to their glam-rock roots. Hedi came to YSL and changed everything including the name. Valentino retired; Gianfranco Ferre died. One of the Missoni family got lost in a plane crash. Trussardi hired and fired Vukmirovic and dropped the "1911" name. Ghesquiere left Balenciaga and now it sucks.

    MORE important are some great new brands that have popped up in between that need coverage. So, feel free to start with some great new brands (or updates to old brands!) and start the discussions.

    TO START:

    Prada has long since fallen off my radar as a "go to" brand, but I liked the style of these from their S/S2013 collection. We've been talking a lot about soft briefcases and vertical messengers... and these are nice examples.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2014

  2. JP Marcellino

    JP Marcellino Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    172
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Location:
    Huntington, NY. USA
    you really put it into perspective how much things have changed. From what i understand they still have not found Vittorio Missoni when his plane went missing. It seems like a lot of missing planes lately.
     

  3. Kira

    Kira Senior Member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014

  4. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,902
    Likes Received:
    905
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    Monaco

  5. Kira

    Kira Senior Member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014
    Makes sense. It doesn't look well taken care off, and it should've developed a better patina after decades of wear.
     

  6. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    11,259
    Likes Received:
    15,485
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2011
    Location:
    Bay Area, CA
    Just a pic of my daily MMM navy tote.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2014

  7. kashmir

    kashmir Senior Member

    Messages:
    757
    Likes Received:
    177
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2010
    subbed, nice info on the first post!
     

  8. Kira

    Kira Senior Member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014

  9. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    11,259
    Likes Received:
    15,485
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2011
    Location:
    Bay Area, CA
    I haven't been to her new space yet. She's been very friendly and helpful in my limited interactions with her. I haven't commissioned anything yet, but her stock items are quite nice too.
     

  10. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,902
    Likes Received:
    905
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    Monaco
    Cyc wid it... I love that Margiela bag. I've never had one but it's the exact shape of a top-zip tote I like. I remember they made a muted/muddy gray color a few years back that was very nice.


    I definitely recommend AiP over a top-end RTW brand... but in truth I don't have all that many pieces made by her. $3000+ is definitely a LOT of money; I didn't start the thread to throw around that amount casually. Instead, I wanted to highlight a quality artisan (who is also a very friendly/lovely person to deal with) and to point out that if you are considering a "brand" bag at retail it's not a huge stretch just to go bespoke.

    Here are a few examples: On the left a Saint Laurent duffle in a pretty standard black leather and so-so hardware. IT's $3550. The Brown one is a gucci leather tote. $3350. Both will be largely machine-made and glued. For less than that you could have a fully handmade bag in whatever color/leather you wanted, with tweaks to fit your own exact needs. Unless you simply LOVE that the bag says "YSL" or "GUCCI" on it in tiny little letters... I can't imagine why you'd buy one.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2014

  11. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,902
    Likes Received:
    905
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    Monaco
    Also, just for fun (lest you think we are exaggerating) here are a few screen captures from the Hermes online store. Keep in mind these bags are not exotic hides... but just their standard calfskin.

    The HEBDO square messenger in Evergrain (a soft finegrained calf) (@pdsf notice the textile strap!)
    [​IMG]

    And the classic sac a depeches in Togo (their standard grained calfskin):

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2014

  12. Kira

    Kira Senior Member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014
    That's just criminal. And people buy these? I would love to see their profits and margins.. Despite not being able to buy an AiP bag anytime soon, I bookmarked her and will eventually contact her for a project. Either that, or just flying to San Fran and seeing her myself. I was planning on having a really thin breast wallet made and several leather straps besides the bags. Because I'm carrying my cheapo bag right now, and it simply can't hold the things I want.
     

  13. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,902
    Likes Received:
    905
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    Monaco
    

    Their margins are very, very high... but they also have some incredible overhead.

    I read once that the rent of a premium piece of property in a big city can be millions per month, beyond the millions it costs to build/outfit the store (Prada, for example, spent $40+ million on its NYC flagship beyond the monthly lease). NONE of the boutiques (except the LV stores in Tokyo) actually make a profit; they all tank money and are for exposure purposes. All of the brands I mentioned have large flagship stores in every major world capital.

    It also costs a few million $$$ per season to stage a runway show. "I don't get out of bed for less than $10k an hour," Linda Evangelista famously said decades ago. A runway show features 30-40 models for several hours... in addition to venue.

    Bea (AiP) has just her little store in San Fran; Linjer (to use a recent discussion) is trying to avoid all that "middle man" and exposure crap to give you a good bag at a fair price. Feel free to contact Bea via email; she's very good about responding and will give you a free quote. The smaller leather pieces are more affordable; a thin breast wallet wouldn't be $3000 unless you had it made in walrus-skin or something. :lol:
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2014

  14. Kira

    Kira Senior Member

    Messages:
    577
    Likes Received:
    48
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2014
    Didn't menswear stores do that in the 20th and 19th centuries? I'm reading a historical book on menswear, and they mentioned that. I wonder if they are doing the same thing. Except in this case, it's a Potemkin village. [​IMG]

    Have you ever been to a runway show? Isn't it only allowed for VIPs?

    I would like to contact Beatrice, but I would be wasting her time. I have A LOT of things to get before I spend thousands on handbags!
     

  15. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,902
    Likes Received:
    905
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    Monaco
    ^No, I'm not high-roller enough to get invites to the shows. I've written copy before so have visited some showrooms/trade shows as a side gig to my teaching, but that's it. And as a member of the Pink Dolphin Society I've got lots of friends who work for brands so get to visit sample and family sales... but it's all pretty "small time."

    My interest is more scientific than financial; old school member SoCal2NYC is the only one I know who walks into a boutique with his charge card and comes out with a full collection.
    :lol:

    Looking through my old files, here are a few more nice bags from various seasons to give members some ideas what is out there:
    From left: Ferre FW/09 Travel Bag, Gucci "Diamante" retro collection (Cruise 2010):
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Missoni S/S 2010 tote; AW2008 shoulder bag.
    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Valentino S/S2009 (one of my favorite Valentino accessory collections) (on right is CK Collection SS08 alligator)
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2014

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.