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The Definitive MANBAG Thread Part I: 2009-2014

JP Marcellino

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"leather purist" i think it runs through my veins too.

and Rach what you call pet peeves i call the business of fashion and could probably be said for all mass manufacturing. I know first hand well known manufacturers that cut corners and misinterpret "Made In" labels as it was an everyday occurrence like the mob doing their business.

... and get this, many Italian factories in turn are outsourcing back to china or India. There are items "Made in Italy" for all due purpose are just brokered by that factory while Indian hands actually put it together. Pure Italy is getting just as expensive to manufacture as any European country and America.

Everyone has to get in on the "cheap" game while it lasts with the least amount of physical work and artistic skill. Is there a market for cheap goods? of course. There is a market for everything, including people that want to date people that wear fuzzy Bunny suits. Most people buy first with their wallet, second with their emotions and third with their logic. Here you have supermarkets with a variety of food choices that people CAN make (what actually goes into their bodies), and many "choose" inexpensive poor quality food, same goes with education and forget about fashion.

Why create something of value when you could flood the market with inexpensive items that are just regurgitated over and over? Because it gets you paid. All you have to do is make a couple of photo shop designs and let the Chinese do all the hard work. Well, that is changing too because good Chinese manufacturing is getting expensive, as it should - i think that is what Hong Kong is all about today, among other things.
 

rach2jlc

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Very true and good points. I think that's why the market is responding with increased support of smaller, quieter, high-quality brands like yours and the other few affiliates some of us are talking about.

The days where a buyer in North America has only the choice of Kenneth Cole crap at $300... or conversely shoddily made Prada at $1500... are thankfully gone. Japan figured this out about two decades ago with a huge range of $400-800 excellent bags. We in the USA have been slower to catch up. But thank goodness we are!
 

Linjer

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Thanks for the response! I am a leather purist (I work with it, I love it!) so I may not be the majority when it comes to certain things, and my pet peeves might just be dealbreakers for myself only! I wish you good luck in your launch. Very exciting! :)
=) Thank you - we just launched actually and we are off to a flying start. You can find our campaign here. Thank you for checking out or collection and providing feedback !
 

KellySolari

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Very true and good points. I think that's why the market is responding with increased support of smaller, quieter, high-quality brands like yours and the other few affiliates some of us are talking about.

The days where a buyer in North America has only the choice of Kenneth Cole crap at $300... or conversely shoddily made Prada at $1500... are thankfully gone. Japan figured this out about two decades ago with a huge range of $400-800 excellent bags. We in the USA have been slower to catch up. But thank goodness we are!
Sorry for asking for your advice again... but any online shops where I can look for nice bags from Japan?
 

rach2jlc

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Sorry for asking for your advice again... but any online shops where I can look for nice bags from Japan?


Unfortunately, no. This has always been the trouble: 1) They are usually only available in stores without much of an online presence; (2) those that are online don't speak English and only ship domestic Japan and (3) by the time you'd convert from Yen and pay for any shipping/proxy services, they'd no longer be very affordable.

Shipping alone for a bag from japan would run you $30-50 depending on the service, another $25-50 for the proxy. At the price level you're wanting, that wouldn't leave much for the actual bag (not to mention Japanese sales tax has also gone up recently.) You'd basically be looking at $150 of bag... $150 of fees. Not worth it.

I'd do (as PDSF recommends) regular searches of YOOX and also Ebay. That's probably going to be your best bet.
 
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Kira

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Unfortunately, no. This has always been the trouble: 1) They are usually only available in stores without much of an online presence; (2) those that are online don't speak English and only ship domestic Japan and (3) by the time you'd convert from Yen and pay for any shipping/proxy services, they'd no longer be very affordable.

Shipping alone for a bag from japan would run you $30-50 depending on the service, another $25-50 for the proxy. At the price level you're wanting, that wouldn't leave much for the actual bag (not to mention Japanese sales tax has also gone up recently.) You'd basically be looking at $150 of bag... $150 of fees. Not worth it.

I'd do (as PDSF recommends) regular searches of YOOX and also Ebay. That's probably going to be your best bet.

I've been reading this entire thread, and I saw some of the links you posted. Goodness, those Japanese bags are beautiful! The issues you pointed out are correct. It's a damn shame that there isn't a good selection of handbags in the ~$500 mark in North America. Question: Do you know any eminent UK brands?
=) Thank you - we just launched actually and we are off to a flying start. You can find our campaign here. Thank you for checking out or collection and providing feedback !

Question of consideration: would you mind having bags with a satchel design? I really like those style of bags. Those and the totes. I understand that you make products according to the demographic (San Fran), so making a limited quantity would be an idea to consider in the future


Aside: I'm really pissed off that I got burned on two bags (paid $160 for both). One of them is made in China and another one is a low-quality bag. The signs were there (cheap looking metal, papery thin lining, stiff leather, glossy finish on the handle, etc.). At least I don't have to worry about them getting water stains or anything like that. Also, those won't deter me from making future purchases. Thanks to @rach2jlc , I know what to look for. I've started to move away from traditional briefcases as well.

Here's a bag I'm considering ($795 retail) :






 
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rach2jlc

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Kira,

I don't know UK bags as well as other members might... asides from the usual "older" gentleman-ly bags like Dunhill, Asprey, etc.

Jas MB was super popular in Japan and makes nice stuff, if you like the styling (sort of goth-ninja Yohji chic);

Bill Amberg was always a "go to" but lately his prices seem far higher than in the past.

Paul Smith is of course another; while I like some of his clothes, his bags have always left me unimpressed for quality/price ratio. That's really all that comes to mind at the moment.

As for THE FIELD bag you posted, I'm unfamiliar with the brand, though at that price I'd DEFINITELY keep searching. For $795 I'd want to be thrilled... and the bag leaves me unimpressed style-wise.

Also keep in mind the tag says "24 Hr bag" which implies it might be a suitcase. If it is too large, you'll find it hard to use as a daily briefcase/document case.
 
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kashmir

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@rach2jlc still balenciaga talk. I just searched this thread for your opinions...

the "crinkly leather" you posted actually looked quite good and structured. But the women handbags in similar setup looked and felt ****** though when I handled them in store a few days back...? have you noticed a drop in quality recently?
 

rach2jlc

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@rach2jlc still balenciaga talk. I just searched this thread for your opinions...

the "crinkly leather" you posted actually looked quite good and structured. But the women handbags in similar setup looked and felt ****** though when I handled them in store a few days back...? have you noticed a drop in quality recently?


Oops, I missed your balenciaga discussion. I haven't seen any recent Balenciaga collections (meaning the past two years or so).

BUT, in the old days, the "crinkly" bags were a very nice coated goatskin (IIRC). Soft, supple, yet very hard wearing. I have no idea what they are using these days. Like YSL (another Gucci group brand), I wouldn't be surprised at all if they've cut additional corners (for example, the YSL bags marked "Bufalo" mostly aren't actually buffalo anymore, but a cheaper coated calf). What used to be heavy brass RIRI or LAMPO zips or FIOCCHI snaps are some very light, crappy feeling "YSL" self-stamped stuff.
 
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Kira

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Kira,

I don't know UK bags as well as other members might... asides from the usual "older" gentleman-ly bags like Dunhill, Asprey, etc.

Jas MB was super popular in Japan and makes nice stuff, if you like the styling (sort of goth-ninja Yohji chic);

Bill Amberg was always a "go to" but lately his prices seem far higher than in the past.

Paul Smith is of course another; while I like some of his clothes, his bags have always left me unimpressed for quality/price ratio. That's really all that comes to mind at the moment.

As for THE FIELD bag you posted, I'm unfamiliar with the brand, though at that price I'd DEFINITELY keep searching. For $795 I'd want to be thrilled... and the bag leaves me unimpressed style-wise.

Also keep in mind the tag says "24 Hr bag" which implies it might be a suitcase. If it is too large, you'll find it hard to use as a daily briefcase/document case.

Oh, I'm not interested in those style of bags. As I already mentioned, I stepped away from those. I'm more interested in totes and doctor's bags; especially the ones with pockets/dividers. I'm not a fan with the bags that have a completely barren interior.

I forgot to tell you that bag is listed for $100 on Ebay. Nevertheless, I won't buy it. Thanks for pointing out the tag! From now on, I'm just going to post pictures of potential bags I like and ask for honest opinions. It's better to ask before buying so I won't get buyer's remorse.
 

rach2jlc

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Oh, I'm not interested in those style of bags. As I already mentioned, I stepped away from those. I'm more interested in totes and doctor's bags; especially the ones with pockets/dividers. I'm not a fan with the bags that have a completely barren interior.

I forgot to tell you that bag is listed for $100 on Ebay. Nevertheless, I won't buy it. Thanks for pointing out the tag! From now on, I'm just going to post pictures of potential bags I like and ask for honest opinions. It's better to ask before buying so I won't get buyer's remorse.


Yeah, Dunhill and such leave me unimpressed as well. In the past few seasons, too, I was surprised to see $1000+ bags made in China from unimpressive leather and hardware. Asprey is a little too "stuffy" for most users, as well.

I agree re: totes; keep a lookout on Ebay as sometimes they'll have some nice Margiela or Neil Barrett Totes at fair prices. Neil Barrett is one who often flies under the radar, but makes some nice standard minimal bags. A lot of people forget he worked under Miuccia Prada back in the 1990's to make the early Prada men's collections (which were really very nice).

You might also look up Leonello Borghi on ebay; he's not stellar by any means, but again on ebay you can sometimes find a pretty good deal. Jas MB (mentioned above) might also be one you might like.
 
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colabear

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New Manbag reveal
 

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