The Definitive MANBAG Thread Part I: 2009-2014

[onion]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

^ I think you read my mind, Robin. Seriously, just yesterday I was thinking about adding Delvaux to our list of manbags. As some may know, they're a Belgian brand who are one of... if not the oldest... leathermakers around (older than LV and Goyard)

They make some really simple, nice, classic stuff. Nevertheless, it's really hard to find and costs an arm and a leg. I find many of the styles boring, as well, though I really like the bag you posted (I think the retail is around $2000 USD or so?)

I'm hoping to visit the Mitsukoshi in Tokyo in July where they have a boutique and will give a fuller report then.

Yeah the brand is definitely expensive. It's out of my price range for sure. Just a card holder is selling for ~$400... but if that bag were under $1000 or so, it would be in the mail right now on a route to my house. I love the idea of an exterior holder for a newspaper. The styling, while simple is really cool... to me at least.

Originally Posted by robin

I think you mean onion.

I really do like that bag however, but the 1829 imprint kills it.

I would still kop with the 1829, but yeah, it seems really out of place. I'd rather have the logo (and I hate logos) than a random date.

 

[rach2jlc]

Originally Posted by robin

I think you mean onion.

I really do like that bag however, but the 1829 imprint kills it.

Oops... you're right... I guess I'm having dylsexia this morning.

Agreed about the 1829. it would be much better with nothing there at all.

Originally Posted by onion

Yeah the brand is definitely expensive. It's out of my price range for sure. Just a card holder is selling for ~$400... but if that bag were under $1000 or so, it would be in the mail right now on a route to my house. I love the idea of an exterior holder for a newspaper. The styling, while simple is really cool... to me at least.

I would still kop with the 1829, but yeah, it seems really out of place. I'd rather have the logo (and I hate logos) than a random date.

Agreed here, too. The 1829 isn't a deal breaker for me, but again, for $2000 or more you have lots of options and for that scratch, you ought to love every little thing about the bag.

 

[chiamdream]

eBay pickup: vintage (circa 1990, as best I can tell) made in the USA Coach.

 

[rach2jlc]

Apparently Hermes is joining the club with this new release (which I think right now is just in Japan)

And, if the $2000 Delvaux seemed too "small time," try this one at nearly $9K (890,000 yen or so!) The only other bad thing about it is the name... for some reason they chose to call it the "Pursangle." how dumb.

I like this Hermes, too, and it won't break the bank QUITE so much (I think this one is $2700-3000 or so).

 

[robin]

^ That blogspot image wasn't showing up when hotlinked.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_nbYdNetvTO...ursangle-B.jpg

I like this one more than the Delvaux.

 

[ppllzz]

anyone have experience with ralph lauren bags... like the ones on gilt right now? im looking at the black canvas (only one that hasnt sold out... wish i got the mailbag in the natural leather last time it was available)

 

[onion]

I thought these would be worth posting: Taken from http://www.gros-delettrez.com/index3.html (To view click on "Ventes a venis" then click on either Hermes auction catalog on the right. There is a ton of vintage Hermes stuff there, not just bags.)

 

[jet]

I want that croc suitcase.

 

[foma]

Did rach2jlc review the Bottega V? Sorry if I missed it among the 10+ pages.

And is anyone familiar with Japanese bag maker Heming's? They make nice camera bags that can easily double as man bags.

 

[Gatsby]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

Other assorted info:

WATCH OUT FOR LICENSES! I forgot to mention before that some brands have licenses around the world and so, if you are buying sight unseen, you might get stuck with a sub-par bag from a big name:

"Japan-only" licenses (made for Japanese market, lower prices, not as high quality, so be careful)
1. Burberry: Lots of licenses in Japan. The bags aren't BAD, by any means, but they tend to run about half the price of other items, especially Black Label, Blue Label, etc.
2. Vivienne Westwood.
3. Paul Smith.
4. Lanvin "Collection" and Lanvin "En Bleu"
5. Jean-Paul Gaultier (he has TONS of licenses in Japan)
6. Missoni
7. Sonia Rykiel
8. EZ Zegna
9. Blackbarrett Neil Barrett

Very true, a lot of the branded goods in Japan are licensed and hence do not really reflect the true quality of the brand name. That said, much of it is made in Japan (though recently shifting to China) and are a good value considering you get a "labeled" bag of above average quality. My experiences (both gifts from girlfriends):

Paul Smith, Japan Licensed ($200-$600)
Pros: Made in Japan and good quality. Design is fun and what you expect from Paul Smith - conservative base w/bold colors, hidden patterns, etc. The brand in Japan is VERY much handled by Sir Paul himself (I met him once in the special item Omotesando store), and the quality is nothing to complain about. I have a small messenger that has lasted for 8 years, and am also using a carry-on luggage piece. The license is managed by Onward, which is the company that bought Jil Sander.
Cons: Not necessarily the best materials used. A lot of synthetic fibers, etc. but understandable considering the price. Don't think a lot of it is available outside of Japan/Asia.
Overall Assessment: Good everyday stuff loved by working Japanese hipsters. Hits the price point well considering it is a 'brand bag.' I like that PS stuff generally has subtle logos letting the style speak for itself.

Burberry-mainline, Japan Licensed ($300-$800)
Pros: Pretty much the same as above, only rather than PS coloring/pattern, use of Burberry check. Decent quality and good for conservative use. License held by Sanyo Shokai.
Cons: Same as above. Nothing particularly great about the materials. Designs are generally quite boring with only the check pattern adding any visual interest. Would not recommend some pieces unless you want to look ridiculously chav.
Overall Assessment: More conservative for guys in late 30-40s. Essentially what those hipster will be using in 10 years. My daily work bag is their reinforced microfiber/leather trim attache, subtle logo, check pattern lining. Gets the job down.
Note: I mention "mainline" because of the numerous Burberry diffusion brands in Japan. Black/Blue Label stuff is more garishly logoed/patterned for a younger audience. But that said, none of the stuff is true "Burberry" only some items like raincoats, Prorsum I think are actually imported.

 

[DesignerValet]

Originally Posted by rach2jlc

A few years ago LV did a range of seasonal items (S/S 2007, I think) in very lightweight Kangaroo leather that was really interesting. Here's a pic of one of them that I really liked (not mine):

The Soana line from s/s '07 was absolutely gorgeous, especially the folding Sacochee model pictured. Only problem was price ($2200 for the smaller of the two, and I believe $2,600 for the larger) and rarity- the Sacochee model especially is still EXTREMELY hard to find secondhand.

 

[pdsf]

Originally Posted by Hobbs

Anyone have photos of Glasers' duffle bags? I'm undecided between that or their deal bags.

I was hoping someone would post some pictures, too. I really like the look of their duffles and deal bags. I heard the quality was very good. I was disappointed though, when I learned that the duffle bags didn't have any internal compartments/pockets.

 

[rach2jlc]

So much nice stuff in that vintage Hermes listing above...

Originally Posted by foma

Did rach2jlc review the Bottega V? Sorry if I missed it among the 10+ pages.
I've been editing/reorganizing some of my posts to make it a little more organized/easier to find. In any case, since they aren't alphabetized, you can use the "search this thread," up at the top next to the Star-rating (use this rather than the general search function so you can find the reviews as they appear in this thread only). Here's a copy/paste of what I said about BV: Bottega Veneta $1000-and up. Pros: Beautiful, simple, relaxed styling with luxe leathers and materials. No overt logos and an overall understated, no-nonsense approach to design. Beautiful color pallete, too. Cons: expensive as hell, sometimes the quilting/patterns can go overboard. Sometimes leathers TOO soft/smooshy and so can be difficult to keep clean or in good shape, if you are rough of your bags. Overall assessment: I love BV and where Maier has taken the brand. If you can afford it, go for it. In addition to their famous "quilted" patterns, also check out their very sturdy and hardwearing "Marco Polo" line of luggage. Here are a few pics of some other "classic" style bags that I liked: Mulberry Maxi Mabel large tote (also comes in black and a really dark coffee-brown that I like). Retail $1695 but on sale now for $995 through the Mulberry online store:

Prada deerskin tote: Probably around $1500 and messenger ($1200

YSL Top handled Brief (about $2k) and top-handled Tote (~$2495)

LV "Naxos" Messenger ($3200 or so... yikes!)

LV Graphite Tote ($1450) and SS07 Soana Sac Plat ($2500 or so?)

And the piece de la resistance... YSL Croco Tote (Price... I have no idea... if it's stamped/embossed calf, probably $1500, if real croc, about 10X's that or more).

For a different take on Croc... I liked this S/S 08 CK Collection one, too:

 

[rach2jlc]

I also like these, the classic Prada Saffiano briefcase. They've made this since the beginning, but they are just now offering it in a permanent "Trolley" collection in the full range of colors. Model no. is VS0088. Retail 940 euros, so maybe $1500 USD? (there is also a ivory/white version, classic black, and a dark chocolate brown)

I think Phat Guido has one of these, so he may want to chime in on how it's held up for him over the years. Edit: Here's a good blog to read that has lots of great pics of bags and such: http://bagaholicboy.blogspot.com/

 

[chowchow]

the mulberry maxi label is so sweet~~~
unfortunately it is just far out of my price range....