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The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, May 1, 2007.

  1. rioisk

    rioisk New Member

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    I'm 5'8 160 pounds muscular/athletic around 39" chest. I don't know how high-end everybody here is looking for but I've recently found the slim-fit van heusen shirts to be top notch in terms of fitting my body properly. For years I've been plagued with trying to find the few slim-fit shirts stores have to offer and still be surprised at how "un-slim" they were.

    I recently picked up several on 50% off at $20 each. The quality is about average but the fit is amazing. I highly recommend.

    Might be tough finding the slim fits though...i had to dig through quite a few shirts before I found any.
     


  2. FELT

    FELT Senior Member

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    Which UK online retailers (if any) do slim fit, smart button-down collar shirts without breast pockets?

    The Uniqlo +J ones fit that description and are ok for the price. They're sized S, M, L etc though, so not ideal if you're looking to wear them with a tie.
     


  3. BareSolid

    BareSolid Senior Member

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    The Uniqlo +J ones fit that description and are ok for the price. They're sized S, M, L etc though, so not ideal if you're looking to wear them with a tie.

    I wouldn't wear a button-down collar shirt with a tie, perhaps that's just me... maybe I'll try Tailorstore but I don't want to go through 12 different shirts just to get the right measurements.
     


  4. FELT

    FELT Senior Member

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    I wouldn't wear a button-down collar shirt with a tie, perhaps that's just me... maybe I'll try Tailorstore but I don't want to go through 12 different shirts just to get the right measurements.

    No, not just you - goes for me and most other British tie-wearers as well. I think it's an American thing, and one that I never grew into during several years living in the US.
     


  5. aidan.lawrence

    aidan.lawrence Member

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    +1 Bennetton fits like a glove, especially in the arms, where most other brands are too baggy.

    And I think you're right, it's nice to have a super quality shirt but in terms of making an impression, a great fit and shape is number 1.


    These sound kind of like what I'm looking for, is there anywhere to buy them on the west coast or online?
     


  6. derv

    derv Senior Member

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    You know what would be helpful? If we somehow figured out how to take measurements of the top-15 or so "skinny-man" ranked manufacturers' shirts in say 15, 15.5, and 16 and put together a chart for cross-reference.

    I am finding it to be a pain in the neck with the trial-and-error process of finding shirts that fit...even shirts that were recommended in this thread. I know my exact measurements and exactly the range of chest/waist sizes I want, but it is often difficult to find such data on shirts alone.

    Any ideas/suggestions on how to compile? I can volunteer to do some research...but only if others would think this effort would be useful.
     


  7. danger

    danger Member

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    These sound kind of like what I'm looking for, is there anywhere to buy them on the west coast or online?
    I just did a google search and found this: Benetton‎ - more info » 600 Pine Street, Seattle, WA‎ - (206) 340-1206‎ You can also use their store locator: http://www.benetton.com/portal/web/guest/storelocator You wont find much in the way of classic shirts, they are more on the trendy side, but they are better than H&M and fit well.
     


  8. danger

    danger Member

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    You know what would be helpful? If we somehow figured out how to take measurements of the top-15 or so "skinny-man" ranked manufacturers' shirts in say 15, 15.5, and 16 and put together a chart for cross-reference. I am finding it to be a pain in the neck with the trial-and-error process of finding shirts that fit...even shirts that were recommended in this thread. I know my exact measurements and exactly the range of chest/waist sizes I want, but it is often difficult to find such data on shirts alone. Any ideas/suggestions on how to compile? I can volunteer to do some research...but only if others would think this effort would be useful.
    Somebody did this , but it is probably out of date. I think you can find mention of it... somewhere in this huge thread ... It would definitely be a good basis for you to start from though if you can find it.
     


  9. Threak

    Threak Distinguished Member

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    Any ideas/suggestions on how to compile? I can volunteer to do some research...but only if others would think this effort would be useful.

    For that to work, somebody would need to put up a guide with pictures showing how and where the measurements should be taken, to ensure consistent measurements.
     


  10. Crosstalker

    Crosstalker Senior Member

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    I'm a pretty small guy (5'8", 130 lbs.) and most shirts that I find in stores are WAY too big. (Ex., a Jos. A Bank shirt is FIVE times bigger than my waist and looks more like a dress on me). However, I bought about a half-dozen Hugo Boss shirts over the past few months, and there's no dress-like excess in the back. Very good fit for me, I have plenty of space but at the same time my 130 lb frame isn't forced to look like it's 170 lbs.
     


  11. bariummeal

    bariummeal New Member

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    I have a 28" waist and weigh about 9.5 stone, and find it difficult to find shirts to fit. What I have found is that most 14.5 shirts fit my body but the neck is too tight (need a 15" neck):

    Ralph Lauren 14.5 32 Custom fit Polo fit quite well apart from the neck.
    Uniqlo J+ Extra Small is perfect for mincing round Soho, but too tight for work
    Abercrombie Small fit ok - but a little baggy
    Eton shirts Slim fit are good, and Contemporary fit almost as good - but the 14.5 is only done in tent like style. Quality is very good though - though pricey
    Turnbull & Asser 14.5" are good in the body but too tight in the collar - very pricey.

    Here is a trick I follow:
    Wash a new 14.5 shirt and dry so that you get the real size. Then move the top button by 14 - 1/2 inch depending on space available. Then to ensure that the front of the shirt remains straight when fully buttoned up, move the next 2 buttons slightly out also (1/4 inch). I was given this gem of advice by a well known Jermyn Street shirt shop whom I will not mention.

    I also buy a fair number of 15" shirts (Eton 15" and RL Polo Small) and have take them to the tailor for adjustment. Some come back better than others - I find darted shirts get adjusted better, and a few shirts can look baggy round the armpits if the chest is taken in too much - though the majority have been fine.

    Hope this is useful.
     


  12. onix

    onix Distinguished Member

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    Wash a new 14.5 shirt and dry so that you get the real size. Then move the top button by 14 - 1/2 inch depending on space available. Then to ensure that the front of the shirt remains straight when fully buttoned up, move the next 2 buttons slightly out also (1/4 inch). I was given this gem of advice by a well known Jermyn Street shirt shop whom I will not mention.

    But how can the new button positions match the button holes?
     


  13. chihawk

    chihawk New Member

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    I just found out about this site. Hopefully will be able to get a lot of good info from here.

    I'm about 6'4"/6'5" and 190 lbs and have not had much luck finding good fitting shirts in stores in the US. Most of my shirts that I buy in US are Large Tall from Banana Repuplic, but they are still too wide and bulky. I would probably really need a Medium Extra Tall if they had that.

    The best shirts that I have that fit very well are from Sweden....the slim fit (darted) Bläck shirts in Large from the store MQ.

    Does anyone have good recommendations for US stores that have slim fit shirts for tall people like me or do I have to go MTM to get something that would fit me?
     


  14. sportin_life

    sportin_life Distinguished Member

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    I figured I'd give an update on this thread from my perspective since it's so hard to sort through. I'm 5'8" 140 lbs 38" chest 28" waist, athletic build and like many others on here, have a hard time finding shirts that fit properly. I wear dress shirts every day for work so I have a large stash.

    Based on random recommendations in store or in these threads, I have random dress shirts in the following brands:

    Theory
    BR slim fit
    J Crew
    Zara
    Thomas Pink
    Zegna
    Brooks Brothers slim fit
    Charles Tyrwhitt slim fit
    Hugo Boss black label slim fit
    Hugo Boss red label
    Express
    RL Polo custom fit
    Gap tailored fit
    Paul Smith
    H & M
    Valentino
    Club Monaco
    French Connection
    Nordstrom slim fit
    Barney's house brand

    Others will probably disagree but this has been my take on it:

    Would not buy again b/c unacceptable quality (cloth feels like cardboard): Express, Gap, H & M

    Really baggy: Valentino, BB slim fit

    Not as baggy but still billowy: CT slim fit, RL Polo custom fit, J Crew, Theory, Paul Smith, Club Monaco, French Connection, Nordstrom, Barney's

    Best fitting: BR slim fit, Zara (the darted ones), Thomas Pink slim fit, Zegna, Hugo Boss slim fit, Hugo Boss red label

    After buying ~ 100 shirts over the last 5 years, I now usually try to grab BR slim fit or the Hugo Boss red label shirts on sale. I find that these are decent quality and fit well at a reasonable price.

    Zara fit the best but threads come loose after several washes. TP/Zegna is costly. The Hugo Boss red label has a more contoured cut than the Hugo Boss black label slim fit.

    I've actually never tried having my tailor take in or dart any of my other shirts (didn't think of it). I'm going to give it a try and see what happens.

    As a side note, for wool slacks, I find the Theory ones have the best cut (although not necessarily the best quality).
     


  15. duration

    duration Senior Member

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    Ok, for what it's worth. Here's my take on slim fit shirts. I am 1.75m and 65-70 kg depending on the season, and am a size 15 - 15.5. I own a good representation of the shirts mentioned so far... and the slimmest shirts (without any alteration) IMO are:

    RL custom fit, RLPL
    +J
    United Arrows
    Muji

    Generally, I find that the Japanese manufacturers fit me best OTR without alterations. So do give them a try if you are looking for something really slim.
     


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